Displaying a Tree with wire on it... Yikes !!!

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Was getting my tree ready to travel up north to NY, for the ABS
Love of Bonsai Seminar, to be a part of the John Naka Competition...
Post on it here...

http://bonsainut.com/forums/showthread.php?11945-My-Golden-Dewdrop-in-John-Naka-Competition-!!!

And started taking off the wire... and ummmmm...
it's not ready to come off !!! Yikes !!! :(
Took a gamble, this time didn't pay off.

So, emailed them regarding this, waiting to hear back.

But,

Wondered what everyone here thought of trees being displayed
with wire on the tree ???
A No-No ??? Or Ok if it is hidden ???
In my case... sadly I can clean it up the best as possible, but will
be seen. Sadly, just the way the cookie crumbles...
:rolleyes:
 
Trees are shown with wire on them. That's why if your thinking about showing it you should do a very nice job wiring it. Good luck! Break a limb.:D
 
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Apparently, from what I've heard and read, trees are displayed fully wired at the highest level national shows in Japan all the time ( I guess this is mainly conifers, though I suppose deciduous trees could be shown wired while in full leaf). The key is that the wire has to be skillfully applied.
 
Probably a matter of how distracting/apparent it is. It would be best if you can get away with less than it seems to have had recently.

My maple had a couple wires on it for the US Exhibition last year, but I put them on a month or so ahead of time so the leaves had time to re-orient themselves, and they weren't visible.
 
I thought people used copper wire because it blends in with the bark better than aluminum when you show it wired. I have yet to show a tree though and all my wire is anodized aluminum.
 
It is acceptable to show a tree wired with copper, but not aluminum.

A really well done wire job is as beautiful as the tree.
 
I always say, better the tree wired than the artist ...


ed
 
Beautiful specimen...is those succulents planted at the base!?! I read aluminum wire is mostly used by beginners...and copper should never be tried with newbies.

I would imagine wired would be okay. Since it shows the artists creativity of where they are going with said display. But that is only my opinion...as a newbie. :eek:
 
Cadilliac,

Since you are a newbie, you have the opportunity to learn to do it right the first time.

Use annealed copper wire.

The only advantage aluminum wire has over copper is it is less expensive. Large gauges of aluminum are easier to bend than copper, which beginners think is an advantage, but it's not. Why? Because it doesn't hold. So, you have to use more wire. Either in a heavier gauge, or you end up "doubling up" on the aluminum wire. Which negates the price difference between aluminum and copper. Plus, since aluminum wire is thicker, you've added two heavy looking wires onto the branch. (Or if one aluminum wire is strong enough to do the job, it's larger than what a copper wire would be.) So, aluminum is more visible, and it makes branches look larger than copper does.

Then, there's the color. Aluminum is naturally silver colored, so bonsai wire is painted black. Which fades off with time. Copper wire is bright copper/red at first, then weathers to a matte brown. So it becomes less obvious with time.

There are two excellent vendors of quality copper wire especially annealed for bonsai: Jim Gremel and Julian Adams. www.jimgremel.com and www.adamsbonsai.com.
 
I agree with Adair M but want to point out a forgotten aluminum advantage...that it can be re-used multiple times (if one so chooses) without re-annealing like copper. To me, being a (cheap :p )newbie who doesn't show anything yet, that is a big advantage. Of course ease of application doesn't hurt while learning too.
 
I used to think that trees in exhibit shouldn't have wires anymore too but I've seen wired trees in lots of show photos. Local shows also have most trees wired. I guess as long as it is tastefully done, it is okay. Actually, I even saw show trees w/ guy wires.

Good luck!
 
I agree with Adair M but want to point out a forgotten aluminum advantage...that it can be re-used multiple times (if one so chooses) without re-annealing like copper. To me, being a (cheap :p )newbie who doesn't show anything yet, that is a big advantage. Of course ease of application doesn't hurt while learning too.

I would be cautious about reusing wire. I always cut it off, I've seen to many broken branches or other damage done while trying to save .50 cents worth of wire.
 
Dario,

You are right, you cannot reuse copper wire. Copper wire "work hardens". Which means that it gets stiffer the more you bend it. Which is precisely why it works so well!

For those new to copper wire:

Annealing (heating the wire until it glows red) realigns the copper atoms in the wire. Which makes it easy to bend. When bent, the atoms form a crystalized structure, which is stronger and stiffer. (I am not a chemist/physicist, I'm just relaying a layman's understanding of why it works.)

What this means for us is fresh, annealed copper wire is easy to bend and apply to the tree. When cutting off a piece of wire from the roll, try not to straighten it out, and as you work with it, only bend the part that is being wrapped around the branch at that time. I often see beginners cut a piece of wire, maybe about 18 inches long, and then immediately straighten it out! And then start to stick it in the tree. Don't do that! Straightening it out stiffens it. Learn to work with it while it still has the coil shape to it. It will be easier to bend.

As you bend the wire around the branch, it stiffens as we make the coils. Once we have wired the branch, we use the wire to shape the branch into the proper growing position. When we do that, we bend the wire again! So, it stiffens even more. Each successive bending stiffens the wire a little bit more. So when we are through with our wiring and styling, the wire is pretty stiff, so it holds it's position. Which is what we want.

Aluminum doesn't work harden.

I teach wiring at Plant City Bonsai. Beginners are surprised to learn how easy annealed copper wire is to apply. (I think they may have tried to use old electrical wire, and it hasn't been annealed.)

Annealed copper, by the way, often has black carbon on it from the firing process. When it's wrapped around a branch, that look goes away, and the wire looks almost red. Not the bright shiny (almost gold) color we associate with "copper", but a dull dark red. In a week or two, that oxidizes to a dull brown.

One more thing...

Removing copper wire:

The old school teaching was to not unwind it, but cut it off. (Because it's stiff.) That is still true for gauges 12 and larger. (Gauges for copper wire are small numbers for big wire, big numbers for small wire.) So gauge 12, 10, 8, etc get really stiff. Really hard to unwind. But most of our wiring will be 12, 14, and 16. (Sometimes gauge 12 can be unwound, sometimes not.) But those smaller gauges should be removed by unwinding. Grab the tip end of the wire with pliers, and unwind the wire. Back to the "anchor" point. Then (holding the wire at the anchor point), grab the other end of the wire at the tip with the pliers, and unwind back towards the anchor point.

Doing it this way removes all the wire. If you cut it off in little pieces, you can accidently leave little pieces of wire in the tree. Especially in the crotches, which can get stuck in the tree permanently. We don't want that.

You can't reuse those twisty old wires. Save them in a box and take them to the recycle place, or sell to a copper buyer.
 
Aluminum doesn't work harden.

I teach wiring at Plant City Bonsai. Beginners are surprised to learn how easy annealed copper wire is to apply. (I think they may have tried to use old electrical wire, and it hasn't been.

So what your suggesting is...a beginner start with "annealed copper" from the start? New to this...even seen a site that sold raffia which they claimed didn't make groves into the trunk of a tree. Calling it old school...I believe. They also sold wire though.
 
Aluminum does work harden (I use aluminum almost exclusively, and the larger gauge wires are noticeably stiffer after bending), but not nearly to the degree that copper does.
 
Yes. Start with copper wire.

Typically, you don't need raffia unless you are doing such radical bends that the bark would separate from the cambium. And, the technique is to wrap the branch with the raffia, not the wire.

If you are looking at books that show the wire being wrapped with raffia before the wire is used on the tree, that book is obsolete.

Wrapping a branch with raffia, then wiring the branch with wire is only done with radical bends. Usually using guys wires, too. These are advanced techniques and not beginner techniques. Usually done on conifers.

And, by the way, deciduous trees should only be wired on young tender growth. Put the wire on, let it grow out month or so, remove the wire, cut the branch back. Repeat. Repeat many, many times. Deciduous trees are shaped by clip and grow primarily. The wire directs the growth. Mature deciduous branches aren't "bent" into shape, they're "grown" into shape.
 
So what your suggesting is...a beginner start with "annealed copper" from the start? New to this...even seen a site that sold raffia which they claimed didn't make groves into the trunk of a tree. Calling it old school...I believe. They also sold wire though.

Although there is no right answer. I believe that absolute beginners should start with aluminum. It is more forgiving and can be bent a few times. If you decide to bend some thing differently after you first bend it, you can do that easily with aluminum. Also, there is less of a chance of braking branches. If you use copper and you change your mind after bending something and try to do it again, you might end up damaging a branch. You would probably need to cut the copper wire off and rewire. Also, for beginners who are just starting to learn wiring and wiring small, younger material. There is not much of a need for super strong hold. Just my opinion.


Rob
 
Aluminum doesn't work harden.
No need to exaggerate, state the facts then let whomever to decide for themselves. While it may not be as good as copper...there is/are valid reason(s) why aluminum wire is being sold as bonsai wire for ages. Just saying.

Hopefully someday I'll graduate to copper too. :)
 
Ok, I stand corrected... aluminum does work harden. A little.

If you screw up using copper wire, and need to redo it, you remove it, and rewire using a new piece of copper wire.

To me, a greater risk is to use wire that doesn't hold, then you "Overbend" the branch knowing that the wire/branch will straighten back out again. It's better to put on wire that the proper size to begin with, bend it, and it stays put. Far less stress on the tree.

Wiring and bending into position, and then observing that the bend didn't hold, then bending a little "more", and still it doesn't take, then wrapping another wire on, then bending again is more stressful than applying one wire, and bending it into position.

Guys, I started doing bonsai 40 years ago, before aluminum bonsai wire was available. I've tried it. It's just not as good.

Wiring is a fundamental part of bonsai. A really good wiring job uses minimum wire, and is unobtrusive. Looking at a fully wired tree up close, the wire looks logical, simple, and natural. Of course, that is a testament to the skill of the bonsai artist! Doing a wire job on a heavily ramified tree is difficult! It takes planning so that there are no crossed wires. You don't want a tree to look like it's covered with wire.

Doing the tree in my avatar, will take me about 3 days. It's not wired in that picture. Wiring is a tedious process!
 
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