Deadwood Preservation Without Lime Sulfur

Humm, a urethane polymer latex used as an adhesive. Sounds pretty tuff, something to keep in mind if the B72 experiment fails.

FYI I switched to PC petrifier from Minwax woodhardener too. Do note that they have same effect and leaves the wood whitish. But it goes away after a while.
 
I use PC Petifier too. Good stuff, safe, effective, but shiny when dry...see the Shari on the far right root below. This is how it looks dry.


A couple weeks ago, a bonsai friend showed me a nice shohin crabapple, dead. He believes it was the Minwax he used to preserve some dead wood on it. Another crab from the same batch, similar deadwood, but untreated, right next to it was fine.

image.jpg
 
On newly created deadwood that I don't want lime sulpher,
because I don't want it white... I will actually take black
paint or ink and add it to mostly water and make a wash...
This gives that perfect aged weathered grey look to the deadwood.
Then when that is dry add you preserver.

I will usually torch the deadwood as well before, and wire brush
it off... Really cool thing about torching is that it often creates cracks
in the deadwood.
:cool:
 
I have never tried it but I have always thought about using Thompson's water seal for wood preserving. TWS is a mixture of esther gum and carnuba wax that seals and waterproofs exterior wood and cement. I have used it on decks and brick chimneys/siding. Its clear an non shining, the water based Thompson's leaves a semi-gloss sheen. I have spilled it on grass, over sprayed bushes that were against the surface I sealed, and have completely covered different types of Ivy and Wisteria that the clients did not want cut. I actually told them I could not be responsible if it killed the plant and never had one instance that it did any damage. It lasts about 2 years before the sun breaks down its water resistant qualities and I know it would preserve the wood, and I think it would not hurt any plant.

ed
 
Just my two cents but I would not use whitener on pines either way. Now Juniper on the other hand...

Grimmy
 
YES! I use this and it is great. You can even apply lime sulfur over it if you want the whitening effect.

I also have been using this after Cathy Shaner recommended it. Been 3-4 years now and seems to be working fine. Initially there is a slight sheen but after a few weeks its not an issue. Only thing is none of the local HD's have it in stock so I have to order online.
 
I also have been using this after Cathy Shaner recommended it. Been 3-4 years now and seems to be working fine. Initially there is a slight sheen but after a few weeks its not an issue. Only thing is none of the local HD's have it in stock so I have to order online.

Check/call Ace Hardware if you have any close to you. :)
 
Thanks but I ordered 2 gallons last time I'm good for awhile now.
 
Well, given how many are using PC Petrifier, I'm going to have to get some to try a side by side comparison to the B72. Sounds like a good product after the shininess goes away.

Good discussion guys, Thanks!
 
Honest it does not take a lot of it - apply lightly and the shine will be gone in two days maximum. I have done this on many trees and I can advise - less is better and has great results.

Grimmy
 
I've also used pc petrified on several trees. On all but one there was no shine. On the one that got the shine it's cause i did too many coats. 2 coats max never 3.

Ben
 
A long time ago we used pine resin. You might find them on eBay or specialty stores for incense burning. Or collect it in the wild. Dissolve it in a little bit of rubbing alcohol then brush it on. It had been over 15 years since I used the stuff and I don't have any of those trees left so I can't say how long it worked for. But if you want to go natural, that's what I would suggest you try.
 
I found this info on PC petrifier before I used it on a couple of problematic pieces of wood work on this 195 year old house. After having great success with it I had a lot left over so anyways it sure looks safe and all for deadwood. I don't see mine being shiney after it dries - perhaps those that do need to mix it more - just speculation. http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/msds/wood-petrifier-msds.pdf

Grimmy
 
Found a beautiful piece of driftwood in a friends garden. Would love to try and incorporate a juniper into the natural curve of the piece to eventually show.
The problem is that the wood is very wet ( having spent years in the regularly watered garden ), and has some fungus ( clean off with bleach solution? ).
I would like to whiten with Lime Sulfur and then use the PC Petrifier on after to stop rot. My question is whether to apply Lime Sulfur while wood is still drying out?
I don't dare wire brush now too vigourously for fear of ruining this beautiful piece of wood.
Anyone had experience trying to use wood this far gone?
 
Clean with vinegar. And it's best to apply LS to wet dw, so you're good to go.
 
Thanks for the tip Chris.
Pics are after treatment with the White vinegar and before application of Lime Sulphur.
After that I will apply the PC Petrifier to stabilize wood for display use.
This wood has big potential ( I think ) for later use.
Regards,
Leonard
 

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Leonard, I forgot to mention earlier, you need to let the vinegar dry out in the sun. It's the vinegar and sun that does the trick. Then, wet the dw with a mister and then apply LS. Sorry about that!

And very cool piece of dw! That big, I'd use it in landscaping/garden/bonsai display area. It's perfect for that to me. Good find Leonard!
 
Thanks Chris.
I am hoping to attach a specimen juniper to it and train it to wrap around for an eventual cascade
 
I read in an article in Bonsai Focus on deadwood, I believe, by Francois Jeker. He stated that the heat from the torch changes the structure of the lignin, I think, making it harder and more rot resistant. The jins on my JRP are at least 5-6 years old, and just as solid as the day they were created.
I agree 100% I was restoring old historic log cabins in the Canadian rockies, and was amazed at how well preserved the wood was. My boss then explained to me that the guides that built them used "fire sealed logs" from a burn area.
 
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