Dawn Redwood First winter

One large one I cut this AM, this tree has been cut/ chopped several times, is about 3.5 year’s old.
You can see the root mass in the second photo, it was growing on concrete. Its close to 2 inches at the base, didn’t realize it was that big.
 

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Two more that need work this year. They are about five feet in height.
 

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Usually one would choose and spot near a branch that could be easily wired upright. Prettu much can chop most anytime here. We usually chop just as the buds show green.

That’s a good question that depends on three things, growth rate, desired height and design. The idea is to create taper… but this depends on which design one wants.

For a tapered upright, one might cut lower and more often. For other designs, lightening struck, split trunk, stump (takes a long time, best to but this, etc this is not the case.

The very fastest way to grow these trees out is in the ground… flat out. The next best way is to up pot every year, which is what we do. Anderson flat for this tree might work for a couple years to start with, then not so much.

A good nursery soil with a pumice drain layer seems to be the best Gro mix for in the pot/flat here. ( we’ve 1 Dawn and 3 coast redwoods growing out). If in bonsai soil the tree will go dry fast, so best to stick pot in a tray of water.

That’s all I’ve got! Good Luck and keep us posted.

cheers
DSD sends
I’m looking to do a standard upright. I wish I had room to plant in the ground. Right now I’m just doing pond baskets. But I’m assuming I’m getting close to filling that thing out. What’s an Anderson flat?
 
Once growth begins in earnest a Dawn puts a lot of root mass on. So imho extra height is needed for container when developing tree for faster growth.

Usually cut tree back by sawing off the bottom half and work the nebari at the same time in spring. Next year all lis lost root mass returns

Here’s last summer trunk side view. Trunk at 3” and beginning to buttress. This tree was 1/2 bare rooted on top and bonsai media placed on top. Started to suffer in late August due to this. Should have added 1/3 bark component in top media.

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Next year’s up pot likely will build a box unless can obtain a much larger nursery pot.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
So do you think I should chop this year or just do root work? If I should chop any ideas on where? I don’t see a clear cut spot
Once growth begins in earnest a Dawn puts a lot of root mass on. So imho extra height is needed for container when developing tree for faster growth.

Usually cut tree back by sawing off the bottom half and work the nebari at the same time in spring. Next year all lis lost root mass returns

Here’s last summer trunk side view. Trunk at 3” and beginning to buttress. This tree was 1/2 bare rooted on top and bonsai media placed on top. Started to suffer in late August due to this. Should have added 1/3 bark component in top media.

View attachment 521793

Next year’s up pot likely will build a box unless can obtain a much larger nursery pot.

Cheers
DSD sends
 

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Depending on how root bound it is, if you want the trunk thicker just do root work if needed and let it keep going.
 
When the wind keeps knocking 5he tree and container over at that age is a good time. Also an indication to up pot. 😉
cheers
DSD sends
 
That tree needs growth, not a chop. You have to ask yourself, what purpose would a chop right now serve? Unless you're halfway to final diameter, I don't see a reason to chop this seedling.
 
I cut and root prune my dawn redwood’s every year, it’s my tree and my choice.

Thanks
 
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