BrianBay9
Masterpiece
Anybody successfully done a thread graft on crape myrtle?
Crape Myrtle thread graft?
- Thread starter BrianBay9
- Start date
19Mateo83
Masterpiece
I don’t see why it wouldn’t be possible. The ones in my landscape have naturally approach grafted themselves in a few places
BrianBay9
Masterpiece
I'll probably try, but they drop branches on a whim. I haven't heard of anyone that has done it.
Ruddigger
Omono
Lol, did you ask this question at the club meeting this weekend? I know someone did, and David said it would be difficult. I’d like to try it though.
Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
Have you tried making a knob cut in the spot where you want the branch to emerge? Seems like they sprout at will from callus and you could almost direct growth from the spot you want it.
BrianBay9
Masterpiece
Yes. Just asking for any experience. I guess the positive thought is, if I drill a hole for a thread graft that doesn't take, it may be enough of a wound to stimulate a bud, as Brian Van Fleet suggests. At some point I'll report back. Right now the tree is just a trunk and I'm growing out something that might serve as a thread graft later.
Ruddigger
Omono
19Mateo83
Masterpiece
Not exactly sure how this one happened 
Maiden69
Masterpiece
I have heard this quite a few times, this work on very vigorous ficus trees as well, they will sprout or send roots out of cuts on the cambium.
Also, crepe do fuse branches and trunks, so I don't see why a thread graft wouldn't take.
Ruddigger
Omono
The thing I’ve found with Crapes is that they dont heal wounds well, if it all. So making a knob cut might direct new growth, but you could have a wound there for a really long time. I wonder how this characteristic would effect a thread graft. I dont have a Crape substantial enough to test it.
Maiden69
Masterpiece
I agree! Since this was brought up, @BrianBay9 what is the status of the crepe we are talking about? If it is already potted up, I would suggest trying the thread graft first with a thin branch using the smallest drill bit to do the job. You could root some cuttings and use them for this purpose, as most crepes I have touched have brittle branches and bending them around to rout as a thread graft may not be as easy as on a JM.
If it is in the ground, they do heal, just not as fast as JMs or trees with heavy bark.
Apex37
Chumono
Hmm, this has not been my experience, but this also could be entirely my inexperience at play here. I tend to make flat cuts on my crepes vs concave cuts.
Here’s a completely healed callus from a pretty decent size cut 2 years ago:
Here’s cuts made last year on a different tree, the smaller cuts I made just a couple weeks ago.
Ruddigger
Omono
You’re right, that is good callousing. It appears to be a very young tree, older trees around here have huge ugly scars after pruning, that never go away.
Apex37
Chumono
That makes more sense. I haven’t gotten to work with older crepes yet.
BrianBay9
Masterpiece
Since this has moved from theoretical to specific I guess I should post some pics. Here's the CM in question.
The decision is, one trunk or two? One trunk has nice taper and movement. As you can see from this angle, below, the second trunk is a straight cylinder.
I could break up the trunk with a thread graft. I could significantly shorten the boring trunk. I could remove it altogether.
As mentioned above, large wounds form natural uro that don't really heal well, but can be a feature. That would be my intent if I removed that trunk.
The decision is, one trunk or two? One trunk has nice taper and movement. As you can see from this angle, below, the second trunk is a straight cylinder.
I could break up the trunk with a thread graft. I could significantly shorten the boring trunk. I could remove it altogether.
As mentioned above, large wounds form natural uro that don't really heal well, but can be a feature. That would be my intent if I removed that trunk.
Ruddigger
Omono
That tree is much more impressive in person. I still say single trunk. Try the thread grafts, keep us posted.
BrianBay9
Masterpiece
OK, here's the update on the thread graft. Started from a sucker in April. Here it is at the end of July. The foliage from the thread graft exit is circled.
This is the graft site. Hard to tell, but the exit (arrow) is almost twice the diameter as the entrance. You can see the entrance side shaved off a few weeks ago (circled).
Finally, here's the graft after separation. I cut back much of the foliage on the exit side to reduce water demand for a few weeks. I guess we'll see. It seems to be doing great.
I still might end up removing the second trunk altogether, but so far, it looks like thread grafts on a crape myrtle are not only possible, but pretty easy.
This is the graft site. Hard to tell, but the exit (arrow) is almost twice the diameter as the entrance. You can see the entrance side shaved off a few weeks ago (circled).
Finally, here's the graft after separation. I cut back much of the foliage on the exit side to reduce water demand for a few weeks. I guess we'll see. It seems to be doing great.
I still might end up removing the second trunk altogether, but so far, it looks like thread grafts on a crape myrtle are not only possible, but pretty easy.
BrianBay9
Masterpiece
Last update. The thread graft did not make it. It hung in there for a while, even seemed to be pushing new buds, but I think the heat was too much for it. In retrospect I should have just left it alone until next spring before separating.
BrianBay9
Masterpiece
So since the thread graft didn't take (= I'm too impatient), I decided to remove that straight trunk. But not before air layering the top. Started the layer only four weeks ago and have good roots already.
BrianBay9
Masterpiece
Now you can see the good trunk line better. I suppose I could carve the remainder of the straight trunk and regrow a top. Not sure if I'm that patient.
