Coral Maple Game Plan

So what your saying is just cut off half the height of the rootball next season without raking them out and repot? Thanks for clarifying.
If it were my tree.....I would saw half the roots next season and begin raking out the remaining roots removing the old soil. Build a wooden box and repot it into that. Then the next year repeat the same process. By the third year you should have it low enough to easily fit in a pot with a good spread. Do this right before the buds break each time. Remove unnecessary roots during each repot.
 
Ok, so I found this grafted coral maple that I had to save and bring home. At least that’s the way I explained it to my wife.
I could really use some help coming up with a game plan.
1) over wintering - it currently is in a 10 gallon pot. The pot is shallower than your normal pot. It is currently is in the back garden, buried mostly in the ground. I was hoping to keep it here over the winter, hoping the ground would keep it insulated better than an I heated garage. Good idea?
2) It seems like it needs a repot. I haven’t taken it out of the pot, but it was tough to stick a pencil in the root ball. She feels full. Can I repot in the spring and then take air layers? Is that asking too much from her at once.
3) A few branches grow vertical off the trunk. Is there any hope of bending them down? Or am I better off air layering those branches and hoping it throw another from a close location?
4) I have a design in idea and a front selected. I really want air layers so I can have coral maples that aren’t grafted. I like this tree despite the graft, but more is better 😂
Thank you for you help and guidance.
1. Your tree is grafted, special over wintering should not be needed. Typical rootstock is hardier than cultivar on top.
2.I would not repot a compacted nursery tree and air layer the same season. Coral Bark are typically a bit harder to air layer as a cultivar in my experience.
3. My best success with coral bark air layers came after taking the time to get the tree healthy and adapted after repotting. The tree does not look in prime condition at this time.
4 Coral bark branches are more on the brittle end of the spectrum for maple, best to wire when thinner and supple during the growing season. Attempting gradual bends on younger branches rather than the opposite.
5. Agreed on the approach to create Coral bark on their own roots, I currently have five on the go, separated from the mother plant.

Note: first few attempts failed for the reasons stated above.
 
If it were my tree.....I would saw half the roots next season and begin raking out the remaining roots removing the old soil. Build a wooden box and repot it into that. Then the next year repeat the same process. By the third year you should have it low enough to easily fit in a pot with a good spread. Do this right before the buds break each time. Remove unnecessary roots during each repot.
Thanks for the guidance. I have been seeing people mix their own soil with equal parts peat, coarse sand and perlite to fill large grow boxes. How do you feel about this? I know we are similar zones.
 
1. Your tree is grafted, special over wintering should not be needed. Typical rootstock is hardier than cultivar on top.
2.I would not repot a compacted nursery tree and air layer the same season. Coral Bark are typically a bit harder to air layer as a cultivar in my experience.
3. My best success with coral bark air layers came after taking the time to get the tree healthy and adapted after repotting. The tree does not look in prime condition at this time.
4 Coral bark branches are more on the brittle end of the spectrum for maple, best to wire when thinner and supple during the growing season. Attempting gradual bends on younger branches rather than the opposite.
5. Agreed on the approach to create Coral bark on their own roots, I currently have five on the go, separated from the mother plant.

Note: first few attempts failed for the reasons stated above.
Have you tried to air layer 'Bihou'.....this cultivar seems to always have die back every year......at least for me it does. I have not been successful and beginning to believe this one is a graft only cultivar.
 
1. Your tree is grafted, special over wintering should not be needed. Typical rootstock is hardier than cultivar on top.
2.I would not repot a compacted nursery tree and air layer the same season. Coral Bark are typically a bit harder to air layer as a cultivar in my experience.
3. My best success with coral bark air layers came after taking the time to get the tree healthy and adapted after repotting. The tree does not look in prime condition at this time.
4 Coral bark branches are more on the brittle end of the spectrum for maple, best to wire when thinner and supple during the growing season. Attempting gradual bends on younger branches rather than the opposite.
5. Agreed on the approach to create Coral bark on their own roots, I currently have five on the go, separated from the mother plant.

Note: first few attempts failed for the reasons stated above.
Thank you for the insight based on your experience. What has led to your successful air layers on CM, anything specific or done differently?
 
Thanks for the guidance. I have been seeing people mix their own soil with equal parts peat, coarse sand and perlite to fill large grow boxes. How do you feel about this? I know we are similar zones.
While I like/enjoy bonsai, my heart is in the growing, to grow stock for all you crazy Nutters out there, lol.

It really depends what you are trying to do. In my experience as a grower all my plants have done better in the peat/sand/vermiculite mix I use, but this is to grow them out. If I want to grow thicker roots I will use a different substrate, same for fine roots.

Your tree has a good trunk. The graft looks good. The nebari looks decent from what I can see. If you do a chop now you will need time (years) to grow the new leader for the next chop. So what are your plans for this tree?

The more you ask here the more varied answers you will get. We are all scattered around the world, each doing our own thing differently from each other in different climates. You will have to decide your next steps that best suit you and your plans.
 
Have you tried to air layer 'Bihou'.....this cultivar seems to always have die back every year......at least for me it does. I have not been successful and beginning to believe this one is a graft only cultivar.
I have not tried that cultivar, actually the first time I have heard the name.:eek:
Coral bark maple tends to die back easily as well. The more I work with difficult species the more I focus on the health of the tree before grafting or air layering as the key to success. Along with the optimum timing and age of the material.
Seems to lead to improved success in my experience.
 
While I like/enjoy bonsai, my heart is in the growing, to grow stock for all you crazy Nutters out there, lol.

It really depends what you are trying to do. In my experience as a grower all my plants have done better in the peat/sand/vermiculite mix I use, but this is to grow them out. If I want to grow thicker roots I will use a different substrate, same for fine roots.

Your tree has a good trunk. The graft looks good. The nebari looks decent from what I can see. If you do a chop now you will need time (years) to grow the new leader for the next chop. So what are your plans for this tree?

The more you ask here the more varied answers you will get. We are all scattered around the world, each doing our own thing differently from each other in different climates. You will have to decide your next steps that best suit you and your plans.
I love vermiculite. It saves on too frequent of watering trips. I live a busy life and sometimes can’t water everyday.
My goal is to get lots of air layers off of it. They don’t all need to be large, but rather healthy ones to develop into stock.
Secondary I would like to refine the branches utilizing the current trunk. I really like the tree despite the graft. I like the trunk movement, but the branching needs lots of work imho. Thick ones up top and smaller on the bottom. In the end after getting air layers, I want to develop a nice tree for myself. Maybe something to leave my kids when I leave this earth.
We are a lot alike. I’ve grown so many things over the years…I think I have finally learned all these things are probably growing me more than anything 🙏
What’s your soil ratio you work with for maples?
 
Thank you for the insight based on your experience. What has led to your successful air layers on CM, anything specific or done differently?
Mostly the focus on getting the tree into top condition prior to attempting the air layer. Many species are so easy we begin to think it is that way with all of them. that has not been my experience with either air layering or grafting. The condition of the tree can play an important role , as well as the age of the tree or portion working on.
 
I have not tried that cultivar, actually the first time I have heard the name.:eek:
Coral bark maple tends to die back easily as well. The more I work with difficult species the more I focus on the health of the tree before grafting or air layering as the key to success. Along with the optimum timing and age of the material.
Seems to lead to improved success in my experience.
My Coral bark seems pretty strong the last 5yrs of growing them. It's my Bihou, that's the weak one.
They have the nicest peachy yellow branches during the winter. You should check them out. They just don't seem to be strong growers.
 
Mostly the focus on getting the tree into top condition prior to attempting the air layer. Many species are so easy we begin to think it is that way with all of them. that has not been my experience with either air layering or grafting. The condition of the tree can play an important role , as well as the age of the tree or portion working on.
If you don’t mind me asking since you are experienced with CM. How sensitive to sun are they? I’m wondering if it didnt dry out as much as it fried from too much sun. Or more sun than it was use to…Thank you.
 
I love vermiculite. It saves on too frequent of watering
The mixture I use does help with less frequent watering.

What’s your soil ratio you work with for maples?
Really depends what I'm trying to do. Grow them out, create thick roots, or create fine roots. End of winter I have around 50 JM I have to replant in different stages. I may create a thread if I have the time.

Thicker roots
20210325_171844.jpg

Fine roots
20210522_112511.jpg
 
The mixture I use does help with less frequent watering.


Really depends what I'm trying to do. Grow them out, create thick roots, or create fine roots. End of winter I have around 50 JM I have to replant in different stages. I may create a thread if I have the time.

Thicker roots
View attachment 401458

Fine roots
View attachment 401459
Your going to be a busy boy 😂
If you have time I know I would love to hear your thoughts on soil mixes. I’ve done a lot of growing in controlled environments indoors and in the ground. Keeping them in pots long term is new for me in some ways.
 
If you don’t mind me asking since you are experienced with CM. How sensitive to sun are they? I’m wondering if it didnt dry out as much as it fried from too much sun. Or more sun than it was use to…Thank you.
My site is facing south and very sunny, My coral bark and most maples are kept in the nursery section under shade cloth during the hottest part of the growing season. The only maples I leave in full sun are the tridents. Coral bark does seem more susceptible to wind desiccation as well, similar to Kyohime and some of my other dwarf cultivars.
I have a vary strong Coral Bark in the landscape, North East side of the house. Morning sun and shade the rest of the day!
 
Your going to be a busy boy 😂
If you have time I know I would love to hear your thoughts on soil mixes. I’ve done a lot of growing in controlled environments indoors and in the ground. Keeping them in pots long term is new for me in some ways.
PM me
 
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