fredtruck
Omono
Very nice video, Brian. Very nice.
Looks good Fred.
Adair, this sounds like techniques for Apple/malus species. Ume do not develop blooming spurs the same way malus do. The challenge is to keep the proximal buds viable, which is achieved by pruning new growth early, late April/early May:
Let new growth extend to 8-12 leaves and cut back hard, leaving the first 1-4 leaves. Done early enough, it will bud back and keep growing. Done later, and it will stop growing for the year. Many will defoliate and wire at this time too.
The next pruning occurs after blooming, January/February:
Cut back last year's extension growth to 1-2 buds. Leave only 1 if you're sure its a viable bud, leave 2 if you're not sure about the viability of the first.
Scott,Brian - I wonder if you've had a chance to look at the article "Alstadt, L. P., 1982, Pruning Flowering Apricot Bonsai, International Bonsai, 1982 #1"? In it, The author advocates removing the first three leaves of each spring shoot at the same time as the spring pruning you discuss on your blog. Her claim is that the buds that form at the leafless nodes will be reliably vegetative, thereby pushing flowering onto the secondary spring shoots.
I have no experience with Mume, so I can't say either way. But I'd be interested to know how your experience squares with the advice in that article. I also noted that leaf removal is not mentioned in the article "Chiharu, I., 1995, Important tasks during the year for the training and cultivation of Prunus Mume, Bonsai Today, #37, 1995-3". Perhaps the earlier technique is no longer practiced?
Thanks
Scott
Scott,
I don't have the International Bonsai issue, but do have the BT #37, and will check it out. So the '82 article advocates for simply removing the first 3 leaves, and not pruning back the long, running shoots? Then those denuded nodes produce foliage, which I presume, can be stopped short later to get flower buds. Sounds like an interesting experiment and I'll have to check it out with one growing in the ground.
Bjorn and Owen have both said they prune and defoliate ume in early May, and sometimes they grow again, and sometimes they remain leafless for the rest of the year. So far, my approach has been to cut back hard, leaving 1-4 nodes in late April-early May. I get some back budding, but mostly it just stops the extension growth, and flower buds form at the remaining nodes. I'll update my ume thread soon; it's just about to bloom.
My prunus mume contorta has undergone a few changes in the last year. Most important was continuing the slanting movement of the tree begun last year, slanting it even more. This makes for more interesting viewing and photographing angles. Growth has been good, though small in size.
People often ask me how this tree stands up, given the small pot and the slant of the tree. As it is now, the ume is perfectly balanced. However, when the tree begins putting on leaves and shoots, the weight balance is thrown off. I learned a trick from the art gallery business. Sculptures are often anchored to pedestals by putting wax on the bottom of the art. I do the same with this bonsai. Care must be taken to avoid clogging the drain holes, but properly applied, wax works like a charm.
My ume is now entering its second flush of flowers. The timing is good, because of the approach of 2015. Looking back over past times and looking forward as the new year begins, I wish all of you the very best of the holiday.
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My ume is now entering its second flush of flowers. The timing is good, because of the approach of 2015. Looking back over past times and looking forward as the new year begins, I wish all of you the very best of the holiday.
View attachment 65029
The Contorta has just exploded with blossoms. To date, the number of flowers has improved each year for the last 5 or 6 years. I feel pretty lucky.