Twin trunk trees are among my favorites. The smaller of the two here shows a lot of character and potential. The bark looks good, and the scar at the top is healing. It has clearly adapted to container-life.
The concerns that I see are:
1. If this is the chosen front, the lower trunk moves away from the viewer then pigeon-breasts, which gives a sense of instability...weak below, strong above, as opposed to showing movement.
2. From this front, the second trunk is also partly obscured, and creates a feeling of reverse taper as it splits from the trunk. You have about 60 degrees of possible front turning it counter-clockwise...let just a little light show between those trunks.
3. All 2-year old branches are all the same thickness from the bottom to the top. Time to let the lower ones run long and start holding back the top ones. While you're at it, wire them and add movement while it's still possible, or you'll have a tree with very straight, taper-less primary branches upon which years of ramification will be built.
How I would address it from this point:
1. Find a new front that improves the movement and shows off the twin-trunk feature. It might even be that the smaller trunk is somewhere between the 8:00 and 7:00 position on the new front.
2. I'd wire the upper primaries to get some crazy movement now, and shorten the tertiaries back to 3/4" nubs and start getting ramification from the jump...and wire the shoots that emerge as a result.
3. Let the new apical leader run to thicken the new section of trunk, but keep the side shoots short, wired for movement, and trimmed to keep ramification close to the trunk.
4. Lots of daylight between the wires that were applied. Need to place them properly to begin with so they can do their job. Remember to wire in 3D...movement up, down, front, back, and even twist them. Always apply wire in the direction of the twist so they aren't loosened when twisted.
