Cleaning tools....?

Wee

Chumono
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Cartersville Ga
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I plan on doing as much collecting as my time and old body will allow so I need some advice on cleaning tools between trips, I'm not talking about getting the dirt off but what needs to be done to keep from spreading pest and diseases....?

Brian
 
Rubbing alcohol and a rag. Clean all tools in between working on each tree. For diseased trees, wipe down the cutting blades with the alcohol then wipe them dry in between each cut.

Rob
 
Roy Nagatoshi swears by a spritz of Lysol after working on a tree, or even a part of a tree that might have a pathogen (dark center of a cut branch, for example). He even likes to quote whatever claim is on the label, something to the effect of "kills germs in seconds". So I use it too. Just be sure that after a minute or so after the Lysol you wipe the tool dry and put a drop of oil on it to keep the rust at bay, especially cutters with a pivoting joint.
 
I use WD-40 after using my tools. Keeps them lubed and clean.
 
I use a 1/4 cup of vinegar to 1 Quart of water in a spray bottle on all the large tools same as on cooking surfaces. I really have not had a need to disinfect the better smaller tools as I have been fortunate with the plants that require me to use them if I did I would probably use the same. For lube I grab the spray canola or olive oil and give them a light coat.
 
WD 40 has no antiseptic properties. Vinegar has some, but not much.

Alcohol, or Chlorox will do the trick.
 
I know this may be an odd question but I wonder if methanol would work instead of rubbing alcohol....? Reason I ask is we used to race go-karts and we use methanol for fuel....I have 7 or 8 gallons left over.

Brian
 
I know this may be an odd question but I wonder if methanol would work instead of rubbing alcohol....? Reason I ask is we used to race go-karts and we use methanol for fuel....I have 7 or 8 gallons left over.

Brian

That is what as commonly known as denatured alcohol and not normally used as a disinfectant - If you water it down 50/50 and be careful using it could control/exterminate mealy bugs. It is not a disinfectant.
 
I use rubbing alcohol as well. I use creanmate to remove rust on old tools.
 
Careful with Clorox it will pit the metal.
I dip the tools in alcohol after each tree.
 
Man I would not use bleach at all on tools. Last winter I had a tree with Juniper heart rot and when I seen it and looked it up found that it would be carried on the tool I cut the branch with if not disinfected. I figured bleach woudl do the job so I washed the cutters in bleach and rinsed then dried it, two days later the tool would not open up it was so rusted, the metal was severly pitted so I replaced it. Rob told me to use rubbing alcohol as it an astringent (kills germs) it also dries fast and does not rust the tool.

ed
 
The rubbing alcohol idea sounds good. As an extra punch, maybe dip it then burn off the excess. The heat will provide some extra kill. This is common practice in microbiology labs, except 70% ethanol is used, not isopropanol. Get the highest percentage you can find (I think some pharmacies sell 99%) so it will leave less water behind.
 
Man I would not use bleach at all on tools. Last winter I had a tree with Juniper heart rot and when I seen it and looked it up found that it would be carried on the tool I cut the branch with if not disinfected. I figured bleach woudl do the job so I washed the cutters in bleach and rinsed then dried it, two days later the tool would not open up it was so rusted, the metal was severly pitted so I replaced it. Rob told me to use rubbing alcohol as it an astringent (kills germs) it also dries fast and does not rust the tool.

ed
I would imagine that the water is the problem, not the bleach. The water from the rinse never got out of the pivot joint. WD-40 is made to do just that, but wont last long as a rust preventative. 3-in-1 oil or motor oil is what you need for that. WD-40 I believe stands for Water Displacement formula 40, or similar. It is thin and under pressure so it helps with getting into tight spots and drives out water. THEN you put a drop of oil in the joint. Good to go.
 
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I would imagine that the water is the problem, not the bleach. The water from the rinse never got out of the pivot joint. WD-40 is made to do just that, but wont last long as a rust preventative. 3-in-1 oil or motor oil is what you need for that. WD-40 I believe stands for Water Displacement formula 40, or similar. It is thin and under pressure so it helps with getting into tight spots and drives out water. THEN you put a drop of oil in the joint. Good to go.

Bleach is actually very corrosive, leave some bleach wTer in a metal pan overnight and you will wake up to discover a lot of rust.
 
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