He probably used a burr on a die grinder tool to make the concave cut. My speculation is he filled the cavity with the putty type cut paste, as a temporary measure to keep the center heartwood from rotting. He could refresh it from time to time to keep it soft and waterproof. But, that’s just my best guess.
Chuhin Broom Elm
- Thread starter markyscott
- Start date
-
- Tags
- broom chinese elm ebihara
Thanks. one probably needs to be real careful not to nick the cambium if using a powerbook or a pneumatic tool. But yeah that circular cut is so perfect I want to do the same for my chinese elm.
Even if if did, I’m sure he would have cleaned it up with a grafting knife. Mr. Ebihara was probably the best grafting technician that’s ever lived.
MrWunderful
Omono
Drill some holes with a small bit first, it will make digging it out easier than coming at a big flat piece of hard heartwood with concave cutters.
Depending on your skill with power tools, you can use a step bit (my choice) or a forstner bit to get a perfect hole (used by some tradesmen to drill a large hole) - different than a hole saw though.
Those are only recommended if You are confident in your hand though, one wrong move and you could destroy a significant amount of cambium at cut site.
Powerbook ...lol meant powertool. Thanks and I've heard that man's name many times and his trees are amazing. Anyone that has had the honor to apprentice over in japan or under Mr. Ebihara ( cant remeber if Peter Tea apprenticed under him) obviously has a big bag of skills after working with the best. listening to guys such as the OP and yourself and others like smoke and Pat galle who both are members in the club I belong to have really helped me. For some reason I've found a lot of guys ( not the guys I mentioned) dont care for broom style as they say it's boring. I think brooms take a lot of skill to pull off and adds variety to ones collection. Thanks again.
Thank you yeah a forstner bit was the bit I was thinking of but couldnt remember the name. I agree that a step bit would be better because as one drills it would be easier to get the size correct which basically means when to stop? Do you stop when there is x amount of heartwood left to reaching the cambium? X amount being an eighth or sixteenth of an inch or am I way off? I assume there should be some meet left if you know what I mean since one would be risking hitting the cambium... Thanks again
MrWunderful
Omono
It depends like with most things. I get right up to the green, most elms are aggressive callousers And dont really care. Just point the green towards where you want callous to go.
I dont want to Hi-jack @markyscott thread too much so maybe he can speak to how he judged how much to leave. If you want to discuss that specific drilling technique more in-depth, it might be worthy of its own thread!
I would like to specify the grinder bit/ power chisel is MY preferred method for Hardwood removal for *most* wounds for correct callusing- however-
I have been trying to develop Zelkova brooms from seed with ground growing in multiple sizes, and a drill bit/ step bit is the fastest way to get deep holes quickly that swell inward.
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
I sawed the trunk straight across when I cut it. Then over the years and as the branches developed, I carved it carefully with a chisel and a grafting knife. I never treated the dead wood, although I did rewound the callous tissue every year. It didn’t rot much, although this year, as you see, I carved out some punky wood and applied cut paste to the exposed deadwood. This was the first year I had to do that. I never used any power tools of any kind.
- S
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
Peter apprenticed under Junichiro Tanaka at Aichien Bonsai Garden in Nagoya, Japan.
Davidlpf
Chumono
Hello Scott,
thanks for this amazing thread,
i have this new boxwood, happy with the nebari and the short trunk, divided to 3 branches with one being very thick (more like a trunk).
Can this be worked on for a broom style without or minimal chopping?
Is there a way bring the directions of first 2 branches more upright? Maybe a V cut at the interior base and bending?
thanks for this amazing thread,
i have this new boxwood, happy with the nebari and the short trunk, divided to 3 branches with one being very thick (more like a trunk).
Can this be worked on for a broom style without or minimal chopping?
Is there a way bring the directions of first 2 branches more upright? Maybe a V cut at the interior base and bending?
leatherback
The Treedeemer
was?
I don’t know if he’s still alive or not. Hopefully he is. But, if so, he’s elderly.
leatherback
The Treedeemer
OK, I thought it was established fact he passed away. Have not heard anything in that direction. But yes, amongst the elderly he is 
coltranem
Chumono
What kind of hardening putty did you use. I just acquired a much smaller broom chinese elm and I need to clean up a hole at the top.
Thanks
SeanS
Omono
- Messages
- 1,571
- Reaction score
- 5,198
- USDA Zone
- 9b
I think @markyscott used Top Jin sealer and plumbers putty. I do too on my elm and maples
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
Fall 2020 update. Here’s the tree this morning. 
Scott
Scott
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
Here’s the tree after a forced autumn and fall cutback. Three possible fronts. Which do you like?
A)
B)
C)
Scott
A)
B)
C)
Scott
MrBeto
Mame
I’m leaning towards pic # 3
BobbyLane
Imperial Masterpiece
I like pic 1 and 3.
with 3 you have the middle branch off to the rear which provides nice depth. i would like 1 more if there was more coming from the back which could be the case in the future.
with 3 you have the middle branch off to the rear which provides nice depth. i would like 1 more if there was more coming from the back which could be the case in the future.
