Christmas Tree Bonsai Species

Um, just to point out that Norfolk Island Pines aren't pines...They're tropical zone plants, more closely related to Monkey Puzzle Trees than to true pines.

So yeah, they'll live indoors, but they make crummy bonsai for the most part.
 
Um, just to point out that Norfolk Island Pines aren't pines...They're tropical zone plants, more closely related to Monkey Puzzle Trees than to true pines.

So yeah, they'll live indoors, but they make crummy bonsai for the most part.

Yea i found a few pictures and while yes since theyre tropical theyd be ok with more indoor time the did not really seem to look like they would make great bonsai.
 
Or grow a ficus over an ornament!

Sorce
 
Ok -I'll bite.

The original poster is in the Dallas area. "EverydayDiesel" wants a tree for shade or part shade outdoors for 10 months and 2 months indoors. This means all suggestions need to be tropical or sub-tropical, a temperate hardy tree, like a Alberta Spruce, simply would not survive.

Norfolk pine, I've tried them in the past, seedlings look somewhat Christmas tree like for a year or two, then grow too large. Once you start pruning them, to keep them more compact, or to create bonsai, their responses to pruning are ungainly, slow and reluctant. Every Norfolk I had ended up as a weird, ugly, unattractive mess, that always ended up getting moved along to the compost heap. If you see one that looks good, buy it, use it for a couple years, then when it gets too big, move it on & out. They will be a temporary resident.

None of the following suggestions are "beginner plants for indoors", none are houseplants. I don't know what your horticultural skill level is, but if you haven't kept a variety of houseplants happy for 5 or more years, you will be very unlikely to have success with my suggestions below. I am not outlining their full care needs, once you pick one to try you will have to research their specific needs. A useful tip, even the best of light gardens only approach half to 3/4 sun. You can, to some extent make up for this lower light level with longer day length. This is effective up to 18 hours per day. Day length over 18 hours was shown to have no further benefit. So if you grow a sun lover under lights, use an 18 hour day length.

Casurina equisetifolia - Australian Pine, Sheoak, Ironwood - this one wants full sun, but other than that, it is a subtropical that will not tolerate significant frost. So it will need to be indoors during winter in Dallas. There are many examples of Casurina being trained to look very much like northern pines. In fact it is often used in places like Indonesia, and the Philippines as a substitute for a pine in bonsai. Actually Casurina is in a family of trees that is related to the families of tree that include Walnuts, Beeches, & Birches. The Casurina abort their leaves almost the day the buds open, and use stems to do photosynthesis. These stems look like superficially like pine needles. The develop rough bark, really are a good bonsai subject. They will want some sun everyday during their life in the back yard, but 2 months indoors should be easy for them to take without damage.

Juniper procumbens - this is the most subtropical species of juniper, it can thrive even with the most minimal of winter cool down, it is the juniper used in places like Malaysia, Philippines, and Indonesia. Jack Wilke of Michigan, grows his J. procumbens year round under lights. It can be done, with a thoughtfully set up light garden. They are sun lovers, though afternoon shade for a smaller plant in Texas summer might be best. They are not an upright species, so to get the Christmas tree look, one needs to use wire, and shape the tree. Once the branches put on some wood, they will keep the shape you impose. This may be one of the better choices for training into an indoor christmas tree. AND they are easy to find in the trade. They make good bonsai too.

Japanese Black Pine - this is a sub-tropical pine. It's winter chill requirement is low, but it does need a chill. It is fully hardy in Dallas area, so you can leave it outside until just before Christmas. Or better yet, you can have several, and alternate years as to which one you keep in the house over the winter. They are not an indoor houseplant, won't be happy indoors for any length of time, but will tolerate a couple months if conditions indoors are bright and favorable to plant life. I have an elaborate light garden (see top threads - growing under lights - there is a photo) and I have successfully wintered cork bark Japanese black pines under the lights, and candles that grew then were as tight as outdoor candles. But it is not a "beginner" plant for under lights. And I always keep the outdoors as long as I can. Similar is Pinus radiata - the Monterrey pine. It is not as winter hardy as JBP, so it will need winter protection in Dallas. Again, it is a full sun pine, but largely it behaves similar to JBP.

Nea, Pemphis & Premna - these 3 genera have species used often for bonsai in Indonesia, Malaysia, & Philippines. They have conventional dicot leaves, in their natural state they look nothing like pines, or spruces. BUT with diligent leaf reduction techniques, the leaves become so very small that from any distance at all you could easily mistake them for a juniper. They are fully tropical, will survive winter indoors no problem. And they may tolerate shade outdoors. There is a theme here, check out Indonesian, Malaysian and Philippine bonsai sites, and their galleries and see if any species they use catch your eye. These will all be tropical or sub-tropical species, and can give you an idea of what will grow in climates that never see temperatures much below +55 F.

Tropical Pines. - There are Pinus species that are sub-tropical to fully tropical in nature. Unfortunately most of these are not available in the trade as mature plants, you will probably be forced to resort to buying seed and going through the time required to raise them from seed. Most, the majority, have needles too long to use for christmas trees or for bonsai, but there are a few that have shorter needles. They will be outdoor trees, and not really "enjoy" their 2 months indoors, may actually decline a little every winter, but they have a better chance of being limped along than a Colorado blue spruce. All are full sun lovers. Don't know if that is a problem. The one that caught my eye is Pinus leiophylla - Chihuahuan white pine - a zone 9 subtropical. It has needles at or under 4 inches. It is a mountain plant, might not be happy about summer heat, but it is a white pine that will survive winter warmth. There are 50 or more species, you will have to do the research, and then find seed sources, but it may be possible to find a pine that will thrive with a 2 month indoor winter. Check Sheffield Seeds, to see some of the many tropical species. https://sheffields.com/ also check J L Hudson http://www.jlhudsonseeds.net/ There are many other seed companies, but these 2 will give you some of the tropical pine species.

Hope this gives you some ideas.
 
For those that live up north. I live in zone 5b, and my comments will be for my climate zone. Studies at Cornell with wine grapes, and at MSU with stone fruit have shown that winter hardiness is a trait that builds with exposure to cold, and is lost rapidly with exposure to warmth. Hardiness depends heavily on when the extreme cold hits. When exposed to night time lows, that progressively decline a few degrees every night, by mid winter most hardy species will reach their maximum hardiness. A cold snap, with sub-zero temps will be no problem for a hardy tree if the previous weather progressively got colder ahead of the cold snap. Our January or February Mid Winter Thaws, can be a real problem (for fruit growers, and by extension, bonsai growers). A 2 to 5 day period above freezing, followed by a plunge back to sub-zero temperatures will have a significantly greater amount of winter kill, even if the absolute lows reached are well within the "listed" temperature tolerance of the species.

What does this mean for bonsai growers? If you bring that spruce in from outside for a week or so to serve as a christmas tree, you can not return it outside for the remainder of the winter and expect it to retain its winter hardiness. Once brought in, to finish its dormancy period it will need to be kept in a cool spot, cooler than 40 F, but above 32 F for the remainder of the winter.

At about 2 weeks of above freezing temperatures, most hardy species will have begun to wake up and start growing as if it were spring. If their dormancy needs were not met, some buds will start, many will not, leading to weak growth. If you wake a tree up early, you will then have to find a way to give it adequate light and otherwise good growing conditions, because you can not "return it to dormancy" without causing serious stress and possible damage. Definitely keep your indoor use of dormant trees short. Ideally less than 24 hours, with 48 hours being documented as the point where winter hardiness has already been documented as being decreased.

Most hardy trees and shrubs that are hardy in zone 5 need somewhere between 90 and 140 days below 40 F in order to satisfy their winter dormancy. For us, by Christmas, we often have not had more than 60 days of adequate chill, sometimes significantly less. So any tree brought in will need to be returned to a location where it can finish its winter rest. So only do this if you have a winter storage area that stays between 32 and 40 F. If you don't have such a location, it is best you don't try to use hardy spruces, pines, or other evergreens as "living christmas trees". Try some of the sub-tropicals instead.
 
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No one has posted the most obvious choice. Not even Smoke.
A flocked up Foemina.
 
Easy, keep your house at 40 degrees for the couple of weeks you have it inside. It is cold enough to keep the tree dormant but warm enough that your pipes won't freeze. Better yet move to the southern hemisphere. Your trees will be active at Christmas so they can be brought inside without risking the health of the tree.
 
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