Probably not a problem for you in Oregon but what is your water pH? I had trouble with Chojubai yellowing until I measured and adjusted my pH to below 7.
I found that the Chojubai does better in shade, i increase the akadama in my mix to 50% for Chojubai. Water hardness does make a difference as well. Several Bonsai practitioners in the portland area have switched to lowering the PH of their water for Bonsai purposes and noticed an improvement in their trees. I have been using an organic fertiliser with great results. When i first acquired the Chojubai from Oregon and Washington State sources they suffered with frequent yellow leaves and almost a chlorotic look at times. My water PH is 6.2 naturally and my bonsai mix is inorganic. 50% akadama, 20% pumice, 15% Black Lava and 15% granite grit. I use smaller particle size for the Chojubai. Many of the Rose societies have excellent organic fertiliser mixes and they work well with Chojubai. I know the Portland area does.
Good luck, the chojubai are neat for Bonsai. I have attached a group shot of three cuttings and a close up to show the condition. They are placed on a small bench on the backside of my greenhouse facing north, only receive very late afternoon, early evening sunlight. East side of Bonsai area is protected and screened by Douglas Fir , Lodgepole pine and Hemlock forest. I should have mentioned that the lighter green with reddish tinges on some of the leaves in the close up is just the newest growth, color changes darker quite quickly.
In Southern Cal it's all about keeping the pH low. Our water out of the tap is 8.0, and quince like it 6.0-6.5.
If the pH is too high, your quince will be unable to take up iron, regardless of how much is in the soil or how much you supplement. So if you have a tree showing chlorosis when you know you are fertilizing regularly, check that soil pH!