Chinese juniper progression thread

[Oakacer]

Obtained a new Chinese juniper this week. About 40cm tall.

Side 1(I think my favourite)


Side 2


Side 3


Side 4


No decision on plans and styling yet. Initial thoughts are to repot into a large training pot in spring and just observe the tree for a while.

Will use this thread to document progress. If anything jumps out at you with this tree I’d love to hear your thoughts.

 

[WinstonWolfe]

1 or 3. Nebari is better in 3 I think

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Until the top hamper is a bit more clear, hard to totally tell.

Not much taper in the trunk, but very interesting curves one side 1. A tad repetitive? Thinking slightly turning this side view slightly to alleviate this issue, then tilting the tree to the left (using the photo) might really make a really interesting presentation.

What do you think?

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Desert O'Piñon]

From one who doesn't know any better, I like 3. The first branch appeals to me as a potential second trunk, and the second branch possibly an attractive jin in the future. I agree with @Deep Sea Diver as far as the canopy goes; hard to say until it is thinned out a bit, but definitely going to be a great project. I'll be following this progression as I'm learning more and more everyday.

 

[Deleted member 47471]

Overall, I like this Juniper. I agree with DeepSea that tilting/adjusting the orientation of the tree so that the perpendicular line of the base/trunk from the soil going up the tree will add more interest to the trunk line. The trunk has nice movement and twists in it so far, making it a good candidate for stellar shari and deadwood creation to accentuate the twisting and bending movement that already exists.

The canopy looks pretty dense and it might be a good time to go in and clean it out: pruning away small/interior/weak foliage and branching that you do not desire to keep now and in the long term, pruning away foliage and growth inside the crotches (forks, junctions, elbows of the trunk & primary branches), etc. Routinely going through the steps/process of cleaning out to reveal more internal structure can help harmonize the desired/optimal front and how it relates to the "best" base/trunk.

The structure of the primaries and secondaries has nice depth (good foreground/middleground/background) of branching and foliage from every rotational view. This tree already has the bones to create lovely shelves of foliage pads (foliage pads that are more inside/outside, away/closer to the viewer) throughout the canopy from whichever rotational view you choose as the official front.

Personally, I like side 1 and for two reasons: a) the base of the trunk demonstrates strength (although I agree with Winston Wolfe that the base and nebari of 3 is better or probably the best); and b) the interesting trunk movement is shown more, plus the apex/canopy tends to naturally bow towards the viewer (likely requiring "less" work to complete and refine the apex in the long term).

Additionally, if you choose option 1 (very nice), you might consider addressing the lowest and rear branch (removing, angling it, reducing, deadwood) so that the elegant trunkline can be fully shown and appreciated.

 

[Oakacer]

Thanks for your replies! I agree with you DSD and Bonsai Forest, I like side 1 for its movement despite the nebari being better from a different side, and the idea of altering the planting angle by tilting to the left, and then creating counter balance bringing the thicker branch down on the right side. The first large branch, which is largely towards the back of the tree, could be become a Jin with a Shari coming round to the front of the tree.



The canopy is really very dense and until I have a better idea of branch placement and wiring, i think I’ll leave that alone for a while!



Initial thoughts.

 

[Deleted member 47471]

Thanks for your replies! I agree with you DSD and Bonsai Forest, I like side 1 for its movement despite the nebari being better from a different side, and the idea of altering the planting angle by tilting to the left, and then creating counter balance bringing the thicker branch down on the right side. The first large branch, which is largely towards the back of the tree, could be become a Jin with a Shari coming round to the front of the tree.

View attachment 569294

The canopy is really very dense and until I have a better idea of branch placement and wiring, i think I’ll leave that alone for a while!

View attachment 569295

Initial thoughts.

View attachment 569297

You’re on the right track

 

[Ruddigger]

1 for sure. That trunk movement is more important than nebari. The nebari can be improved more easily.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Some great ideas.

A couple other thoughts.

Before getting too far planning about deadwood, Jins et all, go back and lock in your angle. Before doing this, get into the top hamper and clean out all the crouches. Then trim to define each secondary branch and the larger tertiaries. Doing this will give you a very clear look at the entire primary-secondary line.

Then check the angle and slight variations. Once this is dialed in, find a way to securely chock up the pot to the proper angle fixed in place from now on.

This will let the tree get used to the angle and also allow you to decide if any wiring or bending is needed later this fall.

Also will let you start thinking about prospective pots…

That is all!

Looking forward to seeing future posts on this tree.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Deleted member 47471]

Some great ideas.

A couple other thoughts.

Before getting too far planning about deadwood, Jins et all, go back and lock in your angle. Before doing this, get into the top hamper and clean out all the crouches. Then trim to define each secondary branch and the larger tertiaries. Doing this will give you a very clear look at the entire primary-secondary line.

Then check the angle and slight variations. Once this is dialed in, find a way to securely chock up the pot to the proper angle fixed in place from now on.

This will let the tree get used to the angle and also allow you to decide if any wiring or bending is needed later this fall.

Also will let you start thinking about prospective pots…

That is all!

Looking forward to seeing future posts on this tree.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Shibui]

Extending that shari further up the trunk is one way to alleviate the lack of taper. Our eyes/brains only perceive the weight of the darker bark so shari on one side of the trunk makes it look thinner.

 

[Deleted member 47471]

Thanks for your replies! I agree with you DSD and Bonsai Forest, I like side 1 for its movement despite the nebari being better from a different side, and the idea of altering the planting angle by tilting to the left, and then creating counter balance bringing the thicker branch down on the right side. The first large branch, which is largely towards the back of the tree, could be become a Jin with a Shari coming round to the front of the tree.

View attachment 569294

The canopy is really very dense and until I have a better idea of branch placement and wiring, i think I’ll leave that alone for a while!

View attachment 569295

Initial thoughts.

View attachment 569297

Long term shari idea (?) opposing sides for a plated trunk

 

[Oakacer]

Some initial wiring. Need thicker wire for that branch! Crown still needs work over winter/spring. The white paper is hiding the foliage of the branches that will be jinned in order to show the silhouette.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

My guess is that you don't need thicker wire but a more solid anchor point, like the trunk.
Two applications of good copper wire would set that bottom branch with ease.

Alu is soft, so it needs no wiggle room or it will bounce back. Consider using a guy wire too, string it through the applied wire and hook it into a hole in the pot.

 

[bwaynef]

Here's figure 8 from Boon's wiring handout. It can be coupled with a support (rebar, chop sticks..) along the bottom that is guy-wired to ensure there isn't an arch introduced as you bring the branch down.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Nice figure! Wondering

Seems like an illustration for a pine… not sure a cut on a juniper like this will ever heal?

Inadvertent cuts on ours never seem to…

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Ruddigger]

Nice figure! Wondering

Seems like an illustration for a pine… not sure a cut on a juniper like this will ever heal?

Inadvertent cuts on ours never seem to…

Cheers
DSD sends

That’s a standard technique for large juniper branches. No, it won’t heal but that’s not really an issue. It’s also not really necessary to do this cut on this particular tree, though. Proper wiring like described above should be sufficient.

On a pine you’d cut into the branch itself on the bottom side.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Thanks. Understood.

Should have been clearer. My question is all about the divot, not the wiring set ups. Don’t get the purpose of divot on a juniper on the trunk.

Looks like I gotta do more research at the shop. We work alot of junipers at our weekly volunteer job, but haven’t ever seen one for display or in books yet with a divot as shown. Seems like the profile would be interrupted forever.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[bwaynef]

The "divot" can be sawn or just the natural tear that takes place. Handled appropriately it should heal over in time.