Cherry cuttings

[19Mateo83]

Here’s a big batch of Chinese elm cuttings I also have going. I have some in just water and the rest in stalite. All were left in water to “jelly up” on the ends before getting hormodin 3 and planted. I have also had good success with bald cypress cuttings up to 1” thick in pumice submerged in water..

 

[doc spring _work]

Just a tip for future rooting projects Dr. Try using the clear solo cups so you can see when they strike opposed to an opaque container. It definitely helps take the guess work out of it.

See that is a fantastic idea... However it may take away from the overall growth of the roots as they are able to sense the light and will grow away from it!
(Found this out from a local arborist who ran an experiment to watch rooting, they had to alter their see through container with a dark cloth in order to actually achieve visible root growth)

The clusters of three in the small tray do have a half net-like hole section that should allow me to see the rooting on them by lifting them out of their storage container! (Assuming all goes to plan there)

I'm also not in any major rush with these cherries, as the only official plans I have for a few are transport to a commercial site (friend's Ren faire)

And possibly a forest design I haven't purchased the materials for yet!

 

[doc spring _work]

Here’s a big batch of Chinese elm cuttings I also have going. I have some in just water and the rest in stalite. All were left in water to “jelly up” on the ends before getting hormodin 3 and planted.
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Oh I noticed the jelly effect on a cherry branch I tried to root without hormones... I had wondered what that was! Interesting jelly then hormone, might try that if this is unsuccessful!

 

[19Mateo83]

See that is a fantastic idea... However it may take away from the overall growth of the roots as they are able to sense the light and will grow away from it!

I haven’t had any issues with using the clear cups but if you are concerned you can slide the clear cup into a normal red solo cup to protect the roots from light.

 

[19Mateo83]

Oh I noticed the jelly effect on a cherry branch I tried to root without hormones... I had wondered what that was! Interesting jelly then hormone, might try that if this is unsuccessful!

I read somewhere that the ones that jelly up may get better success rates. @The Barber and I had a few conversations about this theory. I soaked them in water for about 20 minutes and they all jellied up. We will see soon enough I guess. The ones in just water like you do willow or ficus cuttings are in my tropical tent and are showing the start of water roots and the buds are starting to open.

 

[The Barber]

I read somewhere that the ones that jelly up may get better success rates. @The Barber and I had a few conversations about this theory. I soaked them in water for about 20 minutes and they all jellied up. We will see soon enough I guess. The ones in just water like you do willow or ficus cuttings are in my tropical tent and are showing the start of water roots and the buds are starting to open.

Oh nice, forgot to ask how they are doing. Over half of my cuttings died from neglect due to my gf's mom catching the flu while I was in the Bahamas and not watering for like 4 days, including about 30 hinoki cuttings that were looking good (I think 3 of those are alive still)

 

[19Mateo83]

Oh nice, forgot to ask how they are doing. Over half of my cuttings died from neglect due to my gf's mom catching the flu while I was in the Bahamas and not watering for like 4 days, including about 30 hinoki cuttings that were looking good (I think 3 of those are alive still)

They are under my bench outside. No leaves yet but I’ll keep watering them

 

[doc spring _work]

Oh since I'm here... Noticed the first bud opening up

 

[19Mateo83]

Just FYI, my cuttings seem to have stalled. They have been at this stage for a week now. How are yours doing?

 

[doc spring _work]

Little ones haven't progressed greatly...
Alternatively the long large cutting seem to be much better not sure if it's the potting or size of the cuttings...

I'll have to run some more tests next year during the orchards pruning season...

What's the drainage on your cuttings? Our soils appear to be very different (yours is infinity better for bonsai)

 

[19Mateo83]

mine are in permatill, an expanded shale product, with a pumice layer in the bottom to keep the shale from falling through the holes. It may have to do a lot with the size of the cuttings. Mine are just twigs and yours are beefy. . Time will tell. Yours are looking good so far!

 

[doc spring _work]

mine are in permatill, an expanded shale product, with a pumice layer in the bottom to keep the shale from falling through the holes. It may have to do a lot with the size of the cuttings. Mine are just twigs and yours are beefy. . Time will tell. Yours are looking good so far!

Well the big bucket was designed with a hydro-propagation mindset... They seem incredibly successful compared to the well draining set up for the 7 in cuttings...

I suppose I'll know when true spring hits and my large outdoor set up tries it's best.

(The big bucket has zero drainage but probably 5-6 inches of perlite to reduce water overall, then I put an inch and a half of peat moss to help keep the under layer humid with a layer of thick moist soil incase the water failed it might ground layer)

 

[doc spring _work]

Inside cuttings all appear to have failed larger cuttings grew plenty of leaves that slowly died, no root formation.

Will attempt again next year I suppose!
Outside cuttings will still have their chance but I'm not optimistic, I think perhaps collecting cuttings with leaves pre-established may be easier... Uncertain, hopefully by next year I will have better soils.

Plan for next year I think is to do the full water bucket, (12 h in and out) for rooting with a separate batch of in full soil with a humidity structure.

Half of the in soil batch will get gelled up before rooting hormone application vs straight hormone application.

I have a rose I will attempt to root after it blooms see how much better spring/ summer cuttings work.

Overall decent learning exp so far

 

[TrevorLarsen]

Yeah think having them in a very humid environment will make the leaves last longer, and give you the best shot of growing roots. I have used a big Rubbermaid container with a piece of glass on top. Put the cuttings on something to keep them out of the water and then have a few inches of water on the bottom. Just keep it in the shade. If that doesn’t work maybe nothing will.

 

[leatherback]

You do realize it is quite well-known how to propagate different species right/ no need to experiment really. Just look in Dirr's reference manual for propagating woody plants, and see which methods are known for the species you try to propagate, or the closest to it.

I find most trees that root from cuttings, will do so from young or semi-mature growth, dipped in rooting hormone, placed in fine humid substrate in a humidity dome.

 

[doc spring _work]

You do realize it is quite well-known how to propagate different species right/ no need to experiment really. Just look in Dirr's reference manual for propagating woody plants, and see which methods are known for the species you try to propagate, or the closest to it.

I find most trees that root from cuttings, will do so from young or semi-mature growth, dipped in rooting hormone, placed in fine humid substrate in a humidity dome.

I did study tons of methods before collecting the free cuttings.

Experimentation shouldn't have been necessary, correct however clearly something about the methods proven to work failed here.

I did just get a cutting of burning brush that broke, given how easily they are supposed to propagate ill know if it's an issue resulting from some external issue.

May speak to the owner of the local nursery, I heard him mention that grafting almost always fails around here so it's possible that some kind of environmental issue is effecting my (should be simple) process.

All in all though it's at most a 20$ loss 25 tops from soil and gas..

Could be a simple humidity issue, I'll regulate the humidity of the outdoor group (the largest of the three) and see if those will have any success.

The issue could also have been a result of attempting to create conditions for the cuttings instead of allowing nature to take hold, there are many things that could've gone wrong with these and that's why I'm left to experiment and find the best possible method for future propagation!

 

[19Mateo83]

I did study tons of methods before collecting the free cuttings.

Experimentation shouldn't have been necessary, correct however clearly something about the methods proven to work failed here.

I did just get a cutting of burning brush that broke, given how easily they are supposed to propagate ill know if it's an issue resulting from some external issue.

May speak to the owner of the local nursery, I heard him mention that grafting almost always fails around here so it's possible that some kind of environmental issue is effecting my (should be simple) process.

All in all though it's at most a 20$ loss 25 tops from soil and gas..

Could be a simple humidity issue, I'll regulate the humidity of the outdoor group (the largest of the three) and see if those will have any success.

The issue could also have been a result of attempting to create conditions for the cuttings instead of allowing nature to take hold, there are many things that could've gone wrong with these and that's why I'm left to experiment and find the best possible method for future propagation!

It could also be the size of the cuttings or the timing that was the issue. Many times dormant cuttings are taken in the fall and over wintered to allow callous formation. Cuttings also seem to work better when they are thinner, no thicker than a pencil. Semi hardwood cuttings in spring may be another option to try if they will let you take some cuttings.

 

[doc spring _work]

It could also be the size of the cuttings or the timing that was the issue. Many times dormant cuttings are taken in the fall and over wintered to allow callous formation. Cuttings also seem to work better when they are thinner, no thicker than a pencil. Semi hardwood cuttings in spring may be another option to try if they will let you take some cuttings.

I doubt I'll be able to do that however I am working at a nursery now so my eyes are peeled for any breakage/ free materials (the owner gave premission for that) I am still a young dumb kid so hopefully my work will help me learn as much as I can (through practice and observation) I really do appreciate having tons of support from everyone here as well.

Good news is my outside buds are getting ready to sprout their leaves so I do have one more shot at this..

I might should get some burlap or plastic to cover the cutting to increase the humidity... Ill see if the nursery has any extra I can nab anyways I gotta work in the morning so I'll check back soon

 

[nuttiest]

I am working at a nursery now so my eyes are peeled for any breakage/ free materials (the owner gave premission for that)

There would be so much broken crap in my pockets after hearing that.
I have plum cuttings taken in fall that I am still cheering on, I fully expect them to pop open, even though it would be like rooting cherries... and I do the same thing every year.

 

[RoadManDenDron]

I just want to second @leatherback and recommend Dirr's book,

the experimenting and research has been carried out, and if youre serious about propagation that book is the best resource available,