Mikecheck123
Omono
I used sifted DE exactly once. Great for roots, but seemed hazardous to my lung health from the very fine dust cloud sifting it makes.
From my relatively small experience with it, it seems far better as a part of a 1:1:1 mix than by itself. Definitely better than sports turface at least, which is a step up from where I was last year.I use 8822 because it’s cheap, not because I like it. My trees planted in mostly 8822 show signs of nutrient deficiency in a way I‘ve never seen with pumice, scoria, etc. In the short term, I’m using organics like coconut husk chunks to make up for what 8822 lacks. In the long run, when I’m eventually more focused on slowing growth and promoting ramification, I’ll probably use 8822 as a filler to reduce the total soil cost, but otherwise use mostly pumice, even though it’s a little more expensive. I intend to experiment with adding small amounts of kanuma soil to the mix for my beeches, oaks, and sweetgums, all of which turn yellow if I don’t give them Holly Tone acid fertilizer in addition to my usual Osmocote.
Until my trees are out of training pot and in good bonsai pot, I am going to use a mix of 40% 8822, 40% SafetySorb, and 20% Pine bark nuggets. If I want a wetter mix, I use more bark.A bit of food for thought. The Arnold Arboretum of Harvard university uses this soil mix for its bonsai and penjing.
Soil Mixes
Plant roots are so intimately involved with soil particles that it is best to think of the soil as part of the plant itself. Therefore, time and care need to go into its preparation. The potting mix should provide for both water retention and air circulation. Our repotting mixes consist of coarse sand (particle size 1 to 3 mm), peat moss or leaf mold, and screened loam, with proportions varying for different plants. In general, we use one-half sand, one-quarter loam, and one-quarter peat for the conifers; and one-third sand, one-third peat, and one-third loam for deciduous trees. In either case, small amounts of superphosphate and organic nitrogen fertilizer are added.
So, don't sweat the small stuff. A lot of things will grow great trees. Chances are that gnarly, world-class collected juniper spent 300 years in a crack rooted only in decayed juniper needles and rock dust.
I love that last bit. I have the same philosophy towards soil. I buy what works for me and my care routine. End of story. If it goes against conventienal wisdom, so be it. My plants and trees are alive and growing. If they aren't/stop growing, I look a the potting media and roots.A bit of food for thought. The Arnold Arboretum of Harvard university uses this soil mix for its bonsai and penjing.
Soil Mixes
Plant roots are so intimately involved with soil particles that it is best to think of the soil as part of the plant itself. Therefore, time and care need to go into its preparation. The potting mix should provide for both water retention and air circulation. Our repotting mixes consist of coarse sand (particle size 1 to 3 mm), peat moss or leaf mold, and screened loam, with proportions varying for different plants. In general, we use one-half sand, one-quarter loam, and one-quarter peat for the conifers; and one-third sand, one-third peat, and one-third loam for deciduous trees. In either case, small amounts of superphosphate and organic nitrogen fertilizer are added.
So, don't sweat the small stuff. A lot of things will grow great trees. Chances are that gnarly, world-class collected juniper spent 300 years in a crack rooted only in decayed juniper needles and rock dust.
I've been using 8822 with good results for years. …
Meaning straight up alone. I have in small pots but stays too wet n heavy in larger pots. More lava/pumice dries it out and bark richens the mixture Can you tell I'm a mechDo you use it neat?
I add pumice and lava. I.e. on the rocks.Do you use it neat?