Cause of leaves withering?

[gjantzer]

I applied fertilize at full strength a few days ago. Miracle Grow 20-20-20. I notice today that the leaves on this tree are not looking healthy at all. They were much more open a few days ago. The leaves are curling inward. They are not dry and do not have the look of root rot. Any idea what is causing the leaves to whither like this?

 

[gjantzer]

Two possible causes I can think of. One is wind burn. I have had some pretty heavy winds the last few weeks, but this seems to be the only tree affected. The second is a fungus. If it is a fungus should anything be done now, or does the fungicide need to be sprayed on in the fall and then again next spring? I've never had a need for a fungicide before, but this maple is new to me this spring so who knows.

 

[Stan Kengai]

Need more information to help. Why are there so many new sprouts this low on the trunk? Did something happen to the top of the tree? What does the rest of the tree look like? What kind of work has been done lately? What did the tree look like last fall?

Based on this 1 photo, to me it looks like something happened to the roots last year causing the top of the tree to die. This new growth is a result of stored energy in the trunk, which is now depleted.

 

[Dav4]

I agree with Stan. When all the new growth on a tree wilts significantly and acutely, look to the roots. If the tree was a poor doer last year, I suspect root rot or a pathogen like V. wilt.

 

[gjantzer]

Here is a photo of the entire tree. It is still in the nursey pot it has been in for years. There are clusters of leaves like the first photo all over the tree. The top is pretty healthy. It just seems strange that it occurred so closely to my first application of fertilizer.

 

[gjantzer]

The cultivar is kurui jishi

 

[GrimLore]

I do things a bit different but "I" would get it out of direct sun, pull it out of that container, check the roots for discoloration and odor. I would then slip pot it into something larger, get it damp not soaked, and treat it with a fungicide.

Grimmy

 

[0soyoung]

The brown area I've highlighted in your pic is symptomatic of wind and/or sun burn durning the winter. This happens a lot in the Rocky Mountain area because the soil is frozen, the air is dry, and most days are quite sunny. Basically the cambium (underneigth) has been dessicated. I had it happen to an acer palmatum here (in Anacortes) and found that it was because the tree had few roots (the dessicated side was to the south).

This just seconds Grimmy's advice:

get it out of direct sun, pull it out of that container, check the roots for discoloration and odor. I would then slip pot it into something larger, get it damp not soaked

I am pretty sure that you will find a very compacted root mass in that small pot - be sure to loosen roots on the outside of it before you plot it into a bigger pot. I am also pretty sure you don't have a fungus problem, but your tree is weak and vulnerable.

 

[iant]

Another thing to think about with a tree in a black pot in spring is if you have a couple hot sunny days and the pot is getting afternoon sun the direct sun on the pot can heat up the roots to dangerous levels. It's easy to get over 110 F in those pots if not mulched or shaded. This can cause the whole tree to go bad fairly quickly. Trees are especially vulnerable if recently repotted (which it sounds like your's wasn't.)
Ian

 

[eugen_onegin]

Wanted to chime in here: The tree looks to be around 7' tall. The pot is about 1/7th the size. Considering the size of the tree, I'm assuming that the pot is root bound. Unless the roots started running out of the bottom, I'm thinking a new, bigger, pot is absolutely necessary. Thinking emergency pot this year, let grow next year 2016, chop trunk in 2017.

 

[GrimLore]

I do things a bit different but "I" would get it out of direct sun, pull it out of that container, check the roots for discoloration and odor. I would then slip pot it into something larger, get it damp not soaked, and treat it with a fungicide.

Grimmy

Wanted to chime in here: The tree looks to be around 7' tall. The pot is about 1/7th the size. Considering the size of the tree, I'm assuming that the pot is root bound. Unless the roots started running out of the bottom, I'm thinking a new, bigger, pot is absolutely necessary. Thinking emergency pot this year, let grow next year 2016, chop trunk in 2017.

Yes as I tried to explain before... I sometimes wonder if anyone reads answers after they ask questions but oh well

Grimmy

 

[aframe]

That looks like classic nutrient burn.
20-20-20 is some pretty strong stuff at full strength. I'd only use it full strength on a well established lawn... in a pot with not much buffer, likely to cause burn. Do leaves feel leathery? as opposed to their normally soft, turgid texture.
Leaf curl (up, not down) can also be associated with overly acidic pH. I bet the 20-20-20 at full strength significantly lowered the pH of your feeding solution. These salts can build up rather quickly in the soil.
Test your water after adding the nutrients next time; my bet is pH in the 5.0 - 5.5 range. you want to aim for 6.5; slightly acidic.
If it were my tree, I'd prepare water at pH 7.0 and flush out the pot several times; only begin feed when leaves have uncurled and at 1/8 strength until healthy.
This curl is very characteristic; I wouldn't guess v. wilt, root rot or fungus...
Can you post a close up of a leaf, both sides so we can see the veins and apparent color and texture?

 

[eugen_onegin]

Yes as I tried to explain before... I sometimes wonder if anyone reads answers after they ask questions but oh well

Grimmy

Never hurts to be redundant.

 

[0soyoung]

Never hurts to be redundant.

Boy, you can say that again!