Carpinus Turczaninowii (Korean Hornbeam) #1

[just.wing.it]

Old rootball looks a little rough....did you hose it out and bare root it?

 

[Orion_metalhead]

I dunked it and gave it a shake, but didnt remove all the soil. The tree didnt grow a huge amount last year. I think I could have maybe went harder on the roots, but with the buds looking healthy, I felt safer not doing too much this year. If it grows well this year, next year I may do some additional work, but I think it needs a season or two of strong growth before doing any drastic root work, which is what it needs long term.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

Loving the foliage on this tree. Looks much much healthier than it did last year by far.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

End of year. Tree grew and looked good all year. Thinking it is safe enough to repot again next year and try to clear up some more issues there. The points where I pruned this year all have buds for next year one internode back so I'll keep that in mind for next year.

I had one cutting take so I'll get that in it's own pot next year.

 

[parhamr]

@Orion_metalhead you’re showing great restraint. I like it! Slow and steady is doing well for you, here. It’s clear you understand that health and sustainability of the tree is going to set you up for bigger, gutsy, and necessary work in the future.

Those leaves and buds all reflect nicely on your efforts.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

Thanks! I appreciate that comment a lot. Part of the restraint this year was simply no time with my daughter being born in May... but I also have a lot of other stuff I like to do, so I'm never antsy to work on stuff.

I just make sure I water in the morning and when I come home. Need to spend a little more time on fertilizing each weekend though with some liquid fert. I dont think I can rely on solid fert as much as I would like to.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

Dont have much from this tree this year. Im sure there are photos but... tree was healthy. I am liking the style. I need to decide how to approach the middle branch. I may cut back to the lowest branch that crosses the main trunk then wire that and let it grow. The branch is out of proportion with the lower tree which I really love. Its my main issue right now. Also want to just grow that tree overall. Next year I will repot. Needs some new soil. Long term pot i want a shallow long oval. Ill plant the two trees off to the right side with some rocks as a ledge. The left side will be made to be a water feature.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

Repotted this into a @vancehanna pot. Really went a bit harder on roots. The larger tree had a circling tap root which had never been removed.. roots in general need work but most of the old soil was taken out and replaced with new soil. Should be another couple years before next repot. Tree is breaking buds and pushing leaves.



Style wise, I went for a little more separation between the trees and a slight turn. The larger tree may need a slight adjustment as this angle seems to eliminate the movement in the trunk which is shown in the previous photos.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

This pot is much better suited to the composition. Wonder if you could…

 

[Orion_metalhead]

This pot is much better suited to the composition. Wonder if you could…
View attachment 481336

Oh, yeah. Other pot was just a mica training pot.

On your virt, yes. I have thought that also. It would be a significant change but probably for the better long term. Id like to see how it grows out this year and maybd take that drastic cut next year in its between-repot year.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

Been a bit slow this year. Expected such due to repot. Still mulling the left most trunk. Im going to fertilize heavily ahead of next season.

 

[Tieball]

My Korean Hornbeams always have a full slow season after a drastic root pruning. When Re-boxing I remove more than two thirds of the roots. The next season the trees take off with abundant growth as the new roots are splurging on growth and stretching out.

I would probably cut back further. But. I like the elegance of keeping both the left and right main trunk components. I like the balance that is currently beginning to happen. The next season the tree will push out buds and branches all over. I’d be pruning to help push out new branch opportunities up and down the trunks and then selectively reaching a foliage goal.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

Thanks Tieball. We will see how the tree moves as the end of the year approaches. It actually is showing new growth now that ive moved it to partial shade so maybe the move to a slightly shadier spot will help it rest of the year.

 

[Tieball]

Thanks Tieball. We will see how the tree moves as the end of the year approaches. It actually is showing new growth now that ive moved it to partial shade so maybe the move to a slightly shadier spot will help it rest of the year.

Interesting. My Korean Hornbeams grew only slightly in partial shaded areas. I finally listened to someone that put me on a better path. When I moved the trees to my full Michigan sun they flourished plenty and have been strong growers ever since the move. I learned that sometimes, not all the time, limiting full sun exposure is referring to harsh sun intense areas such as Southern California, Texas, Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico and states similar. Their sun has a much greater intensity and duration than my sun. So I took the leap. Full sun. And it worked out perfect. My trees are in wood boxes and stay outdoors for full weather exposure spring, summer, autumn and a long cold winter. For my Korean Hornbeams I purposely move them and adjust the surrounding area to give them as much sun as possible.

My trees are always slower growing after a hard root prune or significant branch removal. The trees quickly catch up and grow strong with full sun exposure for my location. I suspect the New Jersey is not that different than my climate. However, I could be wrong. I’ve never lived in New Jersey.

 

[Tieball]

I do give my Korean Hornbeams, in wooden boxes, plenty of watering daily, and sometimes twice a day for the first weeks after a drastic root pruning. The substrate drains very well, very quickly. The trees stay a lush, full, health green until autumn turns the leaves a golden yellow and orange, then brown leaves which hang on for awhile as the full blast of winter happens. Autumn colors on the Korean Hornbeams were lacking real vibrancy when the trees were partial shade.

 

[Tieball]

Here’s one of my Korean Hornbeams in spring. Two thirds of the roots removed at bud swell time. Boxed up, watered well and full of leaves. Less trimming required this season. Next season with the new root growth from this year it will require regular pruning again. This is very early morning sun.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

Yes, Ive had it in full sun all year but I think it might have been a bit too much. 14hrs direct sun is a lot in 95 deg weather.

 

[Tieball]

Yes, Ive had it in full sun all year but I think it might have been a bit too much. 14hrs direct sun is a lot in 95 deg weather.

The Great Lakes send partial clouding over me during parts of the day. So probably not as intense as you experienced. If I had the high temps I’d just leave the trees in the sun and water more frequently. I have some organic in the substrate mix, some bark chips, but it’s mostly inorganic substrate.

I’ve had organic mixes heat up in the sun….noticeably hotter than inorganic. I think, with no scientific fact behind my thoughts, that in my climate a hot soil was not good for growth.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

Tieball, thanks for all the info!! I usually water in the morning around 730 but in full sun, by the time I get home soil is pretty dry. Moving to shade has definitely helped keep a consistent soil moisture. I think this is the main benefit for the partial shade location.

My spot gets full sun from about 2 onwards and partial shade prior. The subtle protection definitely seems to be benefitting the tree but maybe its finally recovered from the early repot. Another thought is possibly moving to full sun next year after full recovery. I think the tree can get two or three years without another repot now.

 

[Orion_metalhead]

End of year. Tree has a ton of buds, which I'm happy about. I wired the left trunk down and I am mulling over whether I while chop off the right most thicker trunk. I guess it depends on how it grows next year. I know I want to air layer off the top nubby branch of the large tree and the top branch of the small tree so... that is in the plan for next year after first flush. Those air layers will go in grow boxes for a few years. I tried to bring down that central trunk a bit to echo the shape of the small tree slightly. Still mulling over some longer term designs but... I think next year will see the tree do very well and put on a lot of growth. Will fertilize heavily all year as well. This tree will get some extra care this winter and stay out of the harshest weather due to the wiring. I probably should have gone one wire size up but whatever.

I forgot to wipe the little bark pieces off the pot. Doh! But I like the color against the tree's bark color and especially the lichen.

Before:


Small tree


Big tree


After wiring


To air layer: