Can I chop this maple really low now?

I once sealed a landscape dogwood after a massive cut back, with a torch! It worked so well I used it on a maple. Took a couple tries, but it worked.

Wouldn’t advise it however! 😎. Wait. Patience is a virtue !

cheers
DSD sends
What about branding with a hot piece of steel?
 
The top looks promising too. Have you considered airlayering just below where the trunk splits in two, and also where you want to chop?
I am in the process of reduction of my collection. It's not a great species so there will be no air-layering. I am just keeping it for memory sake. Chopping just an inch above the current two budding branches is good?
 
If you do the root work first and then the trunk reduction you will control sap loss. This is very effective with young stock in development. Cut roots do not push sap effectively. A larger portion of the energy reserves are retained for root recovery and shoot development.
 
If you do the root work first and then the trunk reduction you will control sap loss. This is very effective with young stock in development. Cut roots do not push sap effectively. A larger portion of the energy reserves are retained for root recovery and shoot development.
It is in full on growing mode now. As suspected the bottom targeted branches are being shaded out.
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The deed is done. There was hardly any sap. Admittedly the tree is small for trunk chop but this tree is kept only for sentimental reason. I don’t want to have to move a large tree of this type 2 years from now.
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The deed is done. There was hardly any sap.
Maples here do not seem to bleed after the leaves are open. Bleeding is only significant when pruned before buds open and while the first leaves are opening.
I do maple pruning either before mid winter or after leaves open or, as mentioned by @River's Edge any time after root pruning.
 
Maples here do not seem to bleed after the leaves are open. Bleeding is only significant when pruned before buds open and while the first leaves are opening.
I do maple pruning either before mid winter or after leaves open or, as mentioned by @River's Edge any time after root pruning.
I followed @LanceMac10 ’s advice and cut 2 weeks after bud breaks.
 
You guys use any homemade sealer for cuts?

I've had luck with two different, slightly odd, sealers. The one that's good for odd shaped cuts is duct seal putty. For pretty much all other cuts I use duct tape (the foil stuff, not duck tape).

I've also used them together on trees that bleed alot. Put some putty over the cut and then cover that with the tape really tightly. It seals pretty well, even if it leaks a little, and the tape keeps everything in place.

Another great thing about using the foil duct tape is that you can see it really clearly. If your tree isn't being shown anytime soon, it makes it easy to find the cuts to check on them at the end of the season.

The only issue with the putty is that it dries out in the sun over a few months and might fall off, so use that on its own with caution.
 
You guys use any homemade sealer for cuts?
I have experimented with different wound sealers have used 2 part epoxy clear normally for wood working or marine use especially to seal and preserve deadwood on deciduous. Trees . Collected apple was main one but also prunus and oak . Trunk chop if sap is flowing and or in the wild . For future collection . Or even dormant in winter contact cement works well will seal well any conditions contact cement . Plumping ABS glue . Automotive weatherstrip adhesive . Basically the same glue different colour and consistency others are duct sealant wood glue but not as good . 2 part epoxy is very usefull
 
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