BONSAI GROUND COVER

[Hartinez]

(1) It helps if you have a larger, deeper pot.
(2) Use organic fertilizer.
(3) Moss likes soft, acidic water. It is one reason it does well in rain water, but does not always do well in irrigated water. The moss I found in Westminster was doing well because the car wash was using RO/DI water to wash cars (so that the water wouldn't leave spots).

Thanks!

I’m using moss I found locally. Switched to organic only fertilizer. Had always used chemical, but thought I’d give this a try. Bio gold pouches. And I need to check my water. Azalea has always hated me so maybe that’s a sign of low acidity in my water. Either way. I’m giving this organic only, and moss growing method for the year. We’ll see.

 

[Bonsai Nut]

I’ve been trying the Mirai technique, but can’t get the moss to grow. I guess a three time a day watering schedule is on the horizon!

Don't forget - Bonsai Mirai is located in Portland. They get about 37 inches of rain per year in long, drizzly showers. Just about anything that doesn't move grows moss. In fact, I would think it would be hard to NOT grow moss on bonsai in Portland if you are using lots of organic fertilizer. Albuquerque gets about 9 inches of rain and you are like us - seasonal rain with long breaks of intense heat and low humidity. Not moss friendly.

 

[August44]

I guess I don't understand moss...if I find some and lightly grind it up or screen it as suggested, and spread that out in a pot, does that then grow? I know...how could anybody not understand moss???

 

[Bonsai Nut]

I guess I don't understand moss...if I find some and lightly grind it up or screen it as suggested, and spread that out in a pot, does that then grow? I know...how could anybody not understand moss???

In areas where you depend upon irrigation for the majority of your bonsai watering, and you have poor water, you will struggle to grow moss. Out of the tap, our water in Southern California has an average pH of 8.2 - 8.5, in addition to being extremely hard. Rainwater has a pH of 5.6 and has no dissolved minerals. The moss you find in the wild only knows rain water. In fact, moss likes acidic conditions so much that it will thrive below pH levels recommended for turf grasses in lawns. One way to kill excessive moss growth in yards is to raise the soil pH. Turf grasses normally like soil to be in the 6.0 to 7.0 range. So if you are struggling with moss due to high water pH, get a water softener that uses potassium chloride pellets (versus sodium chloride) and see how much it drops your water pH (in addition to softening the water). Water softeners naturally release CO2 into the water which will push your pH down - but how much depends on the pH level of your starting water and how hard it is to begin with.

 

[Anthony]

We get 60 or so inches a year, usually from May / June until
November.
Moss grows well at that time.
Found in the yard, on the asphalt, in the sun.

As it gows upwards, the underneath dies and makes compost.

So the soil holds more water.

Which is probably why, you use moss as a top dressing - only - when
showing the tree/s.

Humidity here is 80 to 45 % and we normally have a breeze.

Some trees can handle and like the moss - oxy for example.
Removal for all others.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[Hartinez]

Don't forget - Bonsai Mirai is located in Portland. They get about 37 inches of rain per year in long, drizzly showers. Just about anything that doesn't move grows moss. In fact, I would think it would be hard to NOT grow moss on bonsai in Portland if you are using lots of organic fertilizer. Albuquerque gets about 9 inches of rain and you are like us - seasonal rain with long breaks of intense heat and low humidity. Not moss friendly.

Exactly why I’m not expecting great results. But @PiñonJ has made it happen! So maybe I can have the same results. Regardless, a covering of some point helps keep my trees happy. Even if it’s just sphagnum with dead moss spores. ??‍?

 

[Hartinez]

In areas where you depend upon irrigation for the majority of your bonsai watering, and you have poor water, you will struggle to grow moss. Out of the tap, our water in Southern California has an average pH of 8.2 - 8.5, in addition to being extremely hard. Rainwater has a pH of 5.6 and has no dissolved minerals. The moss you find in the wild only knows rain water. In fact, moss likes acidic conditions so much that it will thrive below pH levels recommended for turf grasses in lawns. One way to kill excessive moss growth in yards is to raise the soil pH. Turf grasses normally like soil to be in the 6.0 to 7.0 range. So if you are struggling with moss due to high water pH, get a water softener that uses potassium chloride pellets (versus sodium chloride) and see how much it drops your water pH (in addition to softening the water). Water softeners naturally release CO2 into the water which will push your pH down - but how much depends on the pH level of your starting water and how hard it is to begin with.

Not that I’m going to go through the trouble, but what filters/options are out there outside of a water softener installed on your entire system?

 

[moke]

Not that I’m going to go through the trouble, but what filters/options are out there outside of a water softener installed on your entire system?

I don't filter or soften the water, I drive the pH down from 8.2 to 6.5 using pH down/acid in a 55 gallon mix barrel. I also add my fertilizer to the solution and its been working great for me. I have a pump installed from the barrel to a watering nozzle.

 

[PiñonJ]

Exactly why I’m not expecting great results. But @PiñonJ has made it happen! So maybe I can have the same results. Regardless, a covering of some point helps keep my trees happy. Even if it’s just sphagnum with dead moss spores. ??‍?

Keep in mind, it takes a whole season to get good coverage - and that's if the birds don't attack it too badly. It doesn't matter what kind of fertilizer you use, it will kill the moss. If you use organic pellets, when you move locations, the moss grows back. The way to grow it in our climate is to keep it moist with frequent watering. Also, look for different species. I found one species that is much more hardy and tolerant to drying out.

 

[PiñonJ]

I guess I don't understand moss...if I find some and lightly grind it up or screen it as suggested, and spread that out in a pot, does that then grow? I know...how could anybody not understand moss???

You need to mix it with the dried sphagnum, so it has a substrate on which it can quickly grow.

 

[Hartinez]

I don't filter or soften the water, I drive the pH down from 8.2 to 6.5 using pH down/acid in a 55 gallon mix barrel. I also add my fertilizer to the solution and its been working great for me. I have a pump installed from the barrel to a watering nozzle.

Very cool. So by just leaving the water sit for a period of time and mixing the fertilizer direct your able to lower the PH? If so what’s your preferred feet? Am I understanding that correctly?

 

[moke]

Very cool. So by just leaving the water sit for a period of time and mixing the fertilizer direct your able to lower the PH? If so what’s your preferred feet? Am I understanding that correctly?

I am adding an acid either Sulfuric Acid or Phosphoric Acid, I switch it up every few batches. The amount of acid that is added is determined by a hand held pH meter until I hit my desired pH of 6.5. I then add the fertilizer to the solution and mix it thoroughly.

 

[August44]

Keep in mind, it takes a whole season to get good coverage - and that's if the birds don't attack it too badly. It doesn't matter what kind of fertilizer you use, it will kill the moss. If you use organic pellets, when you move locations, the moss grows back. The way to grow it in our climate is to keep it moist with frequent watering. Also, look for different species. I found one species that is much more hardy and tolerant to drying out.

So if I have some moss in a pot and fertilize the trees every two weeks or so, it's curtains for the moss or would I have to pour it directly on the moss? You're saying it doesn't make any difference what type of fertilizer (organic or chemical) that I use either? So how does one have moss and fertilize??

 

[PiñonJ]

So if I have some moss in a pot and fertilize the trees every two weeks or so, it's curtains for the moss or would I have to pour it directly on the moss? You're saying it doesn't make any difference what type of fertilizer (organic or chemical) that I use either? So how does one have moss and fertilize??

If you use solid fertilizer, wherever you place it, it will kill the moss, but when you stop fertilizing in that location, the moss will grow back. It only kills the moss where it is in contact.

 

[Shibui]

There seems to be several ways to get moss on your bonsai.
1. Get conditions right and wait. Moss spores are extremely small so they float around in the air and can travel just about everywhere so eventually they will land and germinate. If conditions are suitable the moss will grow.
2. Crumble dry moss over the surface. It appears that moss doesn't die when it gets dry, just goes dormant. It has the ability to grow from just a small fragment of the stem so enough of the small dried pieces can start to grow - if conditions are suitable. It takes a few months to establish moss this way. This method has already been mentioned by a few earlier in this thread but I have not been successful with this method.
3. My preferred method is to transplant living moss. Brian has mentioned this method earlier too. I get moss from the drains and gutters in the main street. Concrete bridges and railway stations also seem to be good hunting grounds. Best time is after rain when it turns green. A butter knife or spatula is good to lift the slabs of moss. You don't need much, if any, soil under the moss for it to survive but a thin slice of soil will help hold the slabs together. Wet the moss, lay it on the pot surface and press down to get good contact. I know some growers who then repeatedly push a knitting needle or similar through the moss to 'knit' it into the soil surface. Add as many or few patches of moss as you wish. Tear the slabs to fit the spaces. The moss will stand up in a few days and a week later it is difficult to see any joins. Again, conditions need to be suitable for the moss to thrive.

Others have also mentioned different species of moss. We have a silvery grey one that loves drier conditions and grows well on pines and cedars. I also have a tree trunk loving species that is dark green, short and fine so looks good but would rather grow up the trunks than on the soil surface. Maybe that's the same one B'Nut mentioned. I'm also spraying vinegar regularly to kill it as it grows over the nebari, up the trunks and in the branches. There are lots of long stem, coarse growing moss species that grow in the forest here. Not suitable for bonsai. Search for very fine, low growing types.

Normal concentrations of fertiliser won't harm the moss. Higher concentrations like organic pellets can kill it where the pellets are in contact.
I've never had to deal with alkaline water but acid also kills moss. I use 1/2 strength vinegar to kill unwanted moss. Turns brown in 24 hours but only where the vinegar has made direct contact. At our last property the well water was quite acid - about 4.5 and moss was difficult to grow there too.

Good moss, used well can look really good on your bonsai but often it is just not worth the trouble so don't kill yourself trying. Look for alternative soil toppings.

 

[Potawatomi13]

So if I have some moss in a pot and fertilize the trees every two weeks or so, it's curtains for the moss or would I have to pour it directly on the moss? You're saying it doesn't make any difference what type of fertilizer (organic or chemical) that I use either? So how does one have moss and fertilize??

Not really. Personal trees moss browns day after fertilizer. 1-2 days later begins greening again until next time. Exclusive use of chemical fertilizer.

 

[August44]

I just wanted to update this thread. I bought some moss online which was expensive and not very good IMO. The longer, dark green moss in the pictures is Irish moss that I got at the local nursery. To me it is to long for what I want. Then, when I went collecting this spring in the mountains right outside of town, I saw several different kinds of moss and collected a bunch. It was very easy to collect...just scrape it off of big rocks. There was the short, green type and then what I think is the sphagnum moss that is longer and sort of rough looking. The pictures show moss collected at 6500-7500". I have it growing in flat pans with about 1-2" of soil and holes drilled in the bottom. It is kept in mostly shady place and watered daily. I really like it but will need to do something about fertilizer if I expect to keep it around. I use chemical fertilizer at present and am very careful not to get it on the moss when doing the routine. What part of the chemical fertilizer hurts the moss if you know. If it's the nitrogen that will be eliminated during the fall/winter months cause I use 0-10-10. A suggestion of organic fertilizer that I could be using all year would be helpful. The last several photos are what I have left after culling out the Irish and Sphagnum moss. Good find and looks good in the pots also.

 

[penumbra]

The longer, dark green moss in the pictures is Irish moss that I got at the local nursery

Peter, Irish moss and Scotch moss are not mosses. They are flowering plants with roots. Probably not the best thing for bonsai but I would think it could be used in some penjing and miniature landscapes (ie fairy gardens)

 

[amcoffeegirl]

I haven’t read the thread yet but I do know that Dasu Bonsai uses elfin thyme in their plantings.
I really love the look of it.

 

[amcoffeegirl]

Also mini ficus pumila if you can find it.