Aiki_Joker
Shohin
Background
A month or so ago I began exploring the potential for thread grafting these two 'similar' spp. Scroll down to see the graft and spare the interpretation/justification of this futility!
I soon found out that these visually similar spp. are in fact completely different. Genus aside, the usual story, if you look long enough at something, you will get it. But not enough for me, I have to try it! After reading about frosty experiences and disheartening results on Sylvatica, I decided to go about learning more of this tree. A difficult tree in bonsai it seems, but a noble and historic one (UK particularly). I like this tree and I'm up for a challenge (right now anyway!).
Rationale
I would like to keep a Sylvatica and admire it as I do the English Oak and Sycamore (maple) I keep. Both deemed relatively unamicable materials in the deciduous realm. Hard to ramify and big leaves respectively (among other perceived annoyances). I like them though. Thread grafting branches came to me as a solution when projecting the life of a recent Beech stump I planted (my first stump). Assuming it survives, there may come a requirement for lower branches in the event of too many top branches growing and inhibiting growth below. Approach grafting doesn't look as clean initially.
After walking the hills and valleys of the Scottish borders for years I found numerous examples of fused branches on Sylvatica, this one set me off on this (possibly hollow) quest:
↑Two fused branches that have been cut off and look rather odd↑ Surely if this can happen naturally, it can be done.
Then I started looking longer and I saw. The boundary lines to the properties here have some 80 to 100 year old specimen Sylvatica. The one below was in mast this year, a huge amount of biomass fell and I would have thought it will be tired for the next few years! Some areas inside the drip line were half a foot deep in beech nuts. Walking around the back of this awesome tree I saw multiple fusions! The tree stands on a ~45 degree slope. I thought it may split apart and commit suicide until I saw all of the fusions holding the back on! These are like cables holding it together now:
↑The overall opinion is that Sylvatica are more equipped to deal with approach grafts than thread grafts↑ The above exemplifies two natural approach grafts. Very difficult to find any thread graft-esq formations. I would have thought that all fusions in nature must be attained by the approach processes technically speaking. I can't help wonder if grafting pioneers saw these phenomena and thought, that would work. So why not a thread graft? Many diffuse-porous trees will thread graft easily so why does Sylvatica have a dislike to it guys? Are beeches in pots too weak, are the thread scions poorly grown or chosen? The successful beeches in Ireland seem to be periodically ground grown to maintain their vigour. Maybe this cultivar does not do well potted indefinitely.
↑Here is a completely integrated branch on the same tree↑ Complete fusion of the cambium 360 degrees, total inclusion! This tree receives a lot of wind here from the valley, quite a bit of movement and friction to fuse all of these branches!
Course, the weather and soil plays a large part in the fusions in this area and of course the proliferation of any plant. The climate is doubtless very good here for Sylvatica. The Irish seem to have a similar climate and the masters there have good results, not many of them granted. Not many people there to begin with though. Only the skillful manage to train Sylvatica.
Grafting Experiment
Grafting begins, one hornbeam and one beech were chosen for the experiment. Sample size is small due to time and tree constraints! If this works it will be an insignificant event and far from conclusive. There are too many variables and too little repetitions here. Nevertheless, it must be done and I will take a quiet nod to a random deity if it works! :0)
↑Here is the hornbeam (Betulus)↑ It is stuck in a corner of the plot and either a dwarf or stunted by weather/poor soil. I'm not sure it is wet enough for it here. It doesn't appear to have been cut back over the years and was planted around 10 years ago. It may of course be a Pendula cultivar, apparently these naturally weep.
↑Here is the Sylvatica, planted about 10 years ago also↑ Never pruned. My parents own these grounds and they are happy about the energy distribution on this tree. Not ideal and could be stronger without all of the bottom growth, there have never been grazers here so this tree will be slow to close but very strong.
Both of these trees were chosen because they are strong and in a similar area (about 15m apart) and on the morning coffee walk around here so easy to monitor immediately post graft (for any seal or movement issues)!
The trees are a similar age and get similar wind and light. These are the few main variables that I can justify controlling under my circumstances unfortunately.
I expect being ground grown will give a huge advantage to these trees from the standpoint of these grafts taking. Should maximise results and if successful, one will have to bear this in mind when grafting potted trees in the future.
↑Main tools for the job↑ Not surgically sterile here which could be a problem. The implements were washed with earth's universal solvent and soap only! :0/ Bits and sticks were new though. The heal and seal is really good and I have had great results with this on cuts in the past. I'm sure it has hormones in it, I wouldn't put this past Bayer! Great formulation, cut and seal and a mass of shoots appear in no time, no drying out and allows the plant to breathe slowly. It seals out water and insects very effectively, disappearing as the cambium rolls over. I have had to reapply on large saw cuts (<5 inches dia.) before. It is flexible, but strong, don't get it on clothes though ha ha ha! Use saliva to stop it sticking to fingers.
↑Hornbeam first, branch prepped↑ Side branches were removed to promote apical growth pushing more energy to the tip (no absorption from the side shoots). A vigorous branch near the top of the tree was selected to increase the potential for preferential and fast growth/thickening. Closing the graft at the earliest opportunity. These trees are known apically dominant and taking a top branch should maximise the success rate. These buds are much smaller than the beech and easier to thread through a small orifice. Hornbeams are already looking like better candidates for this type of graft to me.
The smallest possible bit was selected to ensure the least time to close the graft in the event of thickening. The time to close appears to be one of the critical items for the success of these grafts.
..................................... More to come when I figure out how to upload more than ten images .....................................
A month or so ago I began exploring the potential for thread grafting these two 'similar' spp. Scroll down to see the graft and spare the interpretation/justification of this futility!
I soon found out that these visually similar spp. are in fact completely different. Genus aside, the usual story, if you look long enough at something, you will get it. But not enough for me, I have to try it! After reading about frosty experiences and disheartening results on Sylvatica, I decided to go about learning more of this tree. A difficult tree in bonsai it seems, but a noble and historic one (UK particularly). I like this tree and I'm up for a challenge (right now anyway!).Rationale
I would like to keep a Sylvatica and admire it as I do the English Oak and Sycamore (maple) I keep. Both deemed relatively unamicable materials in the deciduous realm. Hard to ramify and big leaves respectively (among other perceived annoyances). I like them though. Thread grafting branches came to me as a solution when projecting the life of a recent Beech stump I planted (my first stump). Assuming it survives, there may come a requirement for lower branches in the event of too many top branches growing and inhibiting growth below. Approach grafting doesn't look as clean initially.
After walking the hills and valleys of the Scottish borders for years I found numerous examples of fused branches on Sylvatica, this one set me off on this (possibly hollow) quest:
↑Two fused branches that have been cut off and look rather odd↑ Surely if this can happen naturally, it can be done.
Then I started looking longer and I saw. The boundary lines to the properties here have some 80 to 100 year old specimen Sylvatica. The one below was in mast this year, a huge amount of biomass fell and I would have thought it will be tired for the next few years! Some areas inside the drip line were half a foot deep in beech nuts. Walking around the back of this awesome tree I saw multiple fusions! The tree stands on a ~45 degree slope. I thought it may split apart and commit suicide until I saw all of the fusions holding the back on! These are like cables holding it together now:
↑The overall opinion is that Sylvatica are more equipped to deal with approach grafts than thread grafts↑ The above exemplifies two natural approach grafts. Very difficult to find any thread graft-esq formations. I would have thought that all fusions in nature must be attained by the approach processes technically speaking. I can't help wonder if grafting pioneers saw these phenomena and thought, that would work. So why not a thread graft? Many diffuse-porous trees will thread graft easily so why does Sylvatica have a dislike to it guys? Are beeches in pots too weak, are the thread scions poorly grown or chosen? The successful beeches in Ireland seem to be periodically ground grown to maintain their vigour. Maybe this cultivar does not do well potted indefinitely.↑Here is a completely integrated branch on the same tree↑ Complete fusion of the cambium 360 degrees, total inclusion! This tree receives a lot of wind here from the valley, quite a bit of movement and friction to fuse all of these branches!
Course, the weather and soil plays a large part in the fusions in this area and of course the proliferation of any plant. The climate is doubtless very good here for Sylvatica. The Irish seem to have a similar climate and the masters there have good results, not many of them granted. Not many people there to begin with though. Only the skillful manage to train Sylvatica.
Grafting Experiment
Grafting begins, one hornbeam and one beech were chosen for the experiment. Sample size is small due to time and tree constraints! If this works it will be an insignificant event and far from conclusive. There are too many variables and too little repetitions here. Nevertheless, it must be done and I will take a quiet nod to a random deity if it works! :0)
↑Here is the hornbeam (Betulus)↑ It is stuck in a corner of the plot and either a dwarf or stunted by weather/poor soil. I'm not sure it is wet enough for it here. It doesn't appear to have been cut back over the years and was planted around 10 years ago. It may of course be a Pendula cultivar, apparently these naturally weep.
↑Here is the Sylvatica, planted about 10 years ago also↑ Never pruned. My parents own these grounds and they are happy about the energy distribution on this tree. Not ideal and could be stronger without all of the bottom growth, there have never been grazers here so this tree will be slow to close but very strong.
Both of these trees were chosen because they are strong and in a similar area (about 15m apart) and on the morning coffee walk around here so easy to monitor immediately post graft (for any seal or movement issues)!
The trees are a similar age and get similar wind and light. These are the few main variables that I can justify controlling under my circumstances unfortunately.I expect being ground grown will give a huge advantage to these trees from the standpoint of these grafts taking. Should maximise results and if successful, one will have to bear this in mind when grafting potted trees in the future.
↑Main tools for the job↑ Not surgically sterile here which could be a problem. The implements were washed with earth's universal solvent and soap only! :0/ Bits and sticks were new though. The heal and seal is really good and I have had great results with this on cuts in the past. I'm sure it has hormones in it, I wouldn't put this past Bayer! Great formulation, cut and seal and a mass of shoots appear in no time, no drying out and allows the plant to breathe slowly. It seals out water and insects very effectively, disappearing as the cambium rolls over. I have had to reapply on large saw cuts (<5 inches dia.) before. It is flexible, but strong, don't get it on clothes though ha ha ha! Use saliva to stop it sticking to fingers.
↑Hornbeam first, branch prepped↑ Side branches were removed to promote apical growth pushing more energy to the tip (no absorption from the side shoots). A vigorous branch near the top of the tree was selected to increase the potential for preferential and fast growth/thickening. Closing the graft at the earliest opportunity. These trees are known apically dominant and taking a top branch should maximise the success rate. These buds are much smaller than the beech and easier to thread through a small orifice. Hornbeams are already looking like better candidates for this type of graft to me.
The smallest possible bit was selected to ensure the least time to close the graft in the event of thickening. The time to close appears to be one of the critical items for the success of these grafts.
..................................... More to come when I figure out how to upload more than ten images .....................................
