Apple bonsai Branch Selection

[Nishant]

Hello Friends, I am planning to make bonsai of this branch. It’s about three inches thick and so reckon this part is quite old. It has bend and reasonably tapered. There are long branches further in top of this branch which are say two years old.

My plan is to prune off those long branches so as to get some new buds on this section.

Please advise if my plan is okay. Thanks in advance for all your inputs.

 

[Shibui]

I'm not sure that I agree with your assessment of reasonably tapered but you can certainly layer off a section if you want. Apples are relatively easy and maybe it is better than it looks in the photo.
Layers root better when there is plenty of leaf above to supply food for the new roots. You may get better rooting by leaving the branches long then cut them back once roots have formed.
As it is an apple you should still get good roots even if you cut back because that branch should sprout plenty of new buds pretty quick when spring comes.

 

[Nishant]

Thanks fir the reply. This picture does not show the taper so well as does not cover the upper section, It’s not very good though I agree. The bend and thickness is good which is the main motivation.

I want to build the side branches first and so this year My plan is to prune the branches.

Are the apples good at budding on old wood? This is not crab apple.

 

[Shibui]

I thought maybe this was a fruiting apple and yes, apples will usually sprout new buds all over when you prune hard, especially if that is closer to the top of the tree. Regrowth is likely to be very strong so you should be prepared to cut all new shoots back if they grow long.

 

[Nishant]

Should I cut back the new growths while they still growing?

 

[sorce]

is to prune off those long branches so as to get some new buds on this section

If the new buds are for final branching, that could wait. Let regular growth get you thru the layer.

That's not a bad spot, but I feel you can find better.

Sorce

 

[Nishant]

I will take a picture from front. This picture was taken from below so it’s hard to appreciate the bend and taper. The top diameter is half that at base

 

[Mike Hennigan]

That picture should be the officially poster for cedar Apple rust . Juniper literally rubbing up on an apple tree. Go for it. Placing a layer underneath where those two main branches split will give you better taper on your base but you will have to contend with a larger scar once you remove one of the branches you don’t want as the trunk.

 

[Nishant]

If the new buds are for final branching, that could wait. Let regular growth get you thru the layer.

That's not a bad spot, but I feel you can find better.

Sorce

Is it not that the new buds on old wood is more likely if it is part of the main tree. Once I sever off the air layer, will it have so much energy store so as to force new buds in old section? That’s why my plan is to get side branches while still it is part of tree?

 

[Nishant]

That picture should be the officially poster for cedar Apple rust . Juniper literally rubbing up on an apple tree. Go for it. Placing a layer underneath where those two main branches split will give you better taper on your base but you will have to contend with a larger scar once you remove one of the branches you don’t want as the trunk.

Can’t cut too far below because a very big section of the tree will have to go and the landlord can clearly spot that.

 

[sorce]

side branches while still it is part of tree?

In my perfect world...side branches would have been cut for last year.

So if possible, best may be cutting for branching now, and layering next year?

Sorce