Any tips for my dwarf jade bonsai? I'm new here!

[39.ethan]

Hello I am pretty new to growing bonsai. I just got purchased this dwarf jade bonsai. I wanted to start growing some indoor bonsai, so I bought a grow tent and a grow light. I'm pretty unsure on what im doing even after watching multiple videos and just wanted to post this thread to see if there's any tips I should keep in mind so I don't mess up!

 

[Carol 83]

Welcome! If you put you general location in the world in your profile, you will get the best advice for your climate. Are you dead set on growing indoors only? Jades do enjoy their summers outside as do all tropicals.

 

[39.ethan]

Yes, I am from California. I am pretty set on growing indoors because the apartment I live in doesn't have much exposure to sunlight.

 

[AcerAddict]

Welcome to the group! You don't need the grow tent for dwarf jade. I have several that grow indoors just fine in the winter when the humidity inside the house is regularly below 40 and even 30%. As Carol stated above, you would normally put them outside in the summer. However, if your apartment doesn't have a balcony where you can put them out during the warm months, then the grow light will be OK. Dwarf jade don't need mountains of sun, and can actually get leaf burn from too much direct sun. I'd recommend getting a timer for your grow light so it can be on for the same time period each day without you having to remember it. Depending on the light output of the bulb/fixture, you may need to have it on for many hours per day. Make sure you keep your jade in a well-draining soil and don't overwater once fall gets here. Succulents don't need much water at all in the cooler months. Good luck with it. Both dwarf jade (Portulacaria afra) and "standard" jade (Crassula ovata) are quite durable and will do well with just minimal care.

 

[WBY]

I'm in a similar boat, new to bonsai in general and I bought a cup of rooted afra cuttings as a thing I can grow that will be faster than my actual woody trees. I took the biggest cutting and stuck it in a gallon pot full of pumice outside, the rest are in a pot with pumice on a south-facing windowsill inside.

I think the biggest thing to do is get it as much light as possible and let it bulk up.

 

[39.ethan]

Welcome to the group! You don't need the grow tent for dwarf jade. I have several that grow indoors just fine in the winter when the humidity inside the house is regularly below 40 and even 30%. As Carol stated above, you would normally put them outside in the summer. However, if your apartment doesn't have a balcony where you can put them out during the warm months, then the grow light will be OK. Dwarf jade don't need mountains of sun, and can actually get leaf burn from too much direct sun. I'd recommend getting a timer for your grow light so it can be on for the same time period each day without you having to remember it. Depending on the light output of the bulb/fixture, you may need to have it on for many hours per day. Make sure you keep your jade in a well-draining soil and don't overwater once fall gets here. Succulents don't need much water at all in the cooler months. Good luck with it. Both dwarf jade (Portulacaria afra) and "standard" jade (Crassula ovata) are quite durable and will do well with just minimal care.

Appreciate the info! You see I got the grow tent because I wanted to start off with a chinese elm, but the nursery that was closest to me didn't have any so I went and tried the dwarf jade. I will take the it out the grow tent and leave it on my desk closest to the window (which the light is blocked off from because of another building). I also do have a timer for 9 hours, would that be enough time or should I set it to the 12 hour option?

 

[39.ethan]

I'm in a similar boat, new to bonsai in general and I bought a cup of rooted afra cuttings as a thing I can grow that will be faster than my actual woody trees. I took the biggest cutting and stuck it in a gallon pot full of pumice outside, the rest are in a pot with pumice on a south-facing windowsill inside.

I think the biggest thing to do is get it as much light as possible and let it bulk up.

Okay I will let it bulk up! I do have a question on if I should wire it now, or do that when it gets a little bigger. Or I should just not wire it at all. Thanks!

 

[WBY]

Okay I will let it bulk up! I do have a question on if I should wire it now, or do that when it gets a little bigger. Or I should just not wire it at all. Thanks!

You know, most of what I've read about portulacaria afra bonsai so far has usually recommended against a lot of wiring and instead using mostly clip and grow, the reason being that because they aren't woody trees, they don't actually develop much in the way of bark, and they mostly just have a pretty thin skin all over that rubs off pretty easily when wired. Also because they don't grow wood, the branches don't hold their shape in the way that wood does when it lignifies. I'm sure some folks make it work, though, I haven't tried any wiring yet.

 

[39.ethan]

You know, most of what I've read about portulacaria afra bonsai so far has usually recommended against a lot of wiring and instead using mostly clip and grow, the reason being that because they aren't woody trees, they don't actually develop much in the way of bark, and they mostly just have a pretty thin skin all over that rubs off pretty easily when wired. Also because they don't grow wood, the branches don't hold their shape in the way that wood does when it lignifies. I'm sure some folks make it work, though, I haven't tried any wiring yet.

Alright I got it, i'll stay away from wiring for now until I learn a bit more. Thanks!

 

[Srt8madness]

You can absolutely wire P. Afra, clip and grow is just easier for secondary and tertiary branches because you do have to be careful not to snap things. But isn't that what bonsai is about, patience and detail oriented work?

You'd be hard pressed to get movement in a 2 year old and older trunk without wire, especially if you have already started building branching and don't want to cut to a stump.

Your hardest part growing indoors will be long internodes. Eventually if you get to move it outside, it will take every bit of sun you can throw at it and really take off.

There aren't many true "indoor" bonsai, trees aren't as adaptable as houseplants. Ficus are great (some say only) candidate for indoor bonsai.

 

[39.ethan]

You can absolutely wire P. Afra, clip and grow is just easier for secondary and tertiary branches because you do have to be careful not to snap things. But isn't that what bonsai is about, patience and detail oriented work?

You'd be hard pressed to get movement in a 2 year old and older trunk without wire, especially if you have already started building branching and don't want to cut to a stump.

Your hardest part growing indoors will be long internodes. Eventually if you get to move it outside, it will take every bit of sun you can throw at it and really take off.

There aren't many true "indoor" bonsai, trees aren't as adaptable as houseplants. Ficus are great (some say only) candidate for indoor bonsai.

I see, I understand that bonsai are for outdoors, but unfortunately i'm stuck in this apartment building until I finish school. I would also need to look into wiring since im not sure how to do it quite yet. Im definitely going to look into Ficuses to add to my collection! Thanks!

 

[shohin_branches]

You know, most of what I've read about portulacaria afra bonsai so far has usually recommended against a lot of wiring and instead using mostly clip and grow, the reason being that because they aren't woody trees, they don't actually develop much in the way of bark, and they mostly just have a pretty thin skin all over that rubs off pretty easily when wired. Also because they don't grow wood, the branches don't hold their shape in the way that wood does when it lignifies. I'm sure some folks make it work, though, I haven't tried any wiring yet.

I haven't had any issues wiring mine

 

[39.ethan]

I have another question on if I should repot it. The dwarf jade is still in the nursery pot it came in, so I was wondering if I should, or when I should repot.

 

[Michael P]

Friendly suggestions:

1. California is a huge state with many different climates, so please be more specific.
2. 12 hours is the minimum photoperiod for grow lights. Depending on the strength of your light you may need 16 hours.
3. If the drainage is good in the existing pot and soil you do not need to repot right away. But most Portulacaria I see in retail come in very moisture retentive peaty soil mixes. This works for wholesale growing conditions, but for bonsai you need a very fast draining mostly inorganic soil mix.

Good luck and welcome!

 

[39.ethan]

Friendly suggestions:

1. California is a huge state with many different climates, so please be more specific.
2. 12 hours is the minimum photoperiod for grow lights. Depending on the strength of your light you may need 16 hours.
3. If the drainage is good in the existing pot and soil you do not need to repot right away. But most Portulacaria I see in retail come in very moisture retentive peaty soil mixes. This works for wholesale growing conditions, but for bonsai you need a very fast draining mostly inorganic soil mix.

Good luck and welcome!

Yes, I currently live in San Francisco. For the grow light the red wavelength is 660nm, blue wavelength is 460nm, and yellow wavelength is 380-860nm. Would you recommend the red, blue, or yellow for this species? Thanks for the info!

 

[Michael P]

Run the entire spectrum, total quantity is more important than a specific wavelength. Does your grow light have a PAR or PPS rating? These are measures of total output of photosynthetically useful light.

 

[39.ethan]

Run the entire spectrum, total quantity is more important than a specific wavelength. Does your grow light have a PAR or PPS rating? These are measures of total output of photosynthetically useful light.

I am unable to find the PAR or PPS rating. This is the link (https://a.co/d/08VJ9xaW) to the grow light I purchased. If you're able to find it that would be appreciated!

 

[Michael P]

I can't find it either. There is probably a way to calculate it from the wattage, but I don't know how. My guess is that the PAR is not high, so I would position the lights as close to the tree as you can unless they get hot. In that case move them farther away until they no longer heat the leaves. You should have an idea how well it works within a few weeks. If new foliage is dark green and very compact it is working well.

Some people will say that this species cannot be true bonsai, but here is an outstanding tree from the Jim Smith collection.

 

[39.ethan]

I can't find it either. There is probably a way to calculate it from the wattage, but I don't know how. My guess is that the PAR is not high, so I would position the lights as close to the tree as you can unless they get hot. In that case move them farther away until they no longer heat the leaves. You should have an idea how well it works within a few weeks. If new foliage is dark green and very compact it is working well.

Some people will say that this species cannot be true bonsai, but here is an outstanding tree from the Jim Smith collection.

I see. I've had the glow light for a few days, they don't seem to get hot so i'll position them closer to the bonsai. Thanks for the info and i'll try and grow my dwarf jade into one of Jim Smith's hopefully!

 

[Carol 83]

just not wire it at all.

Clip and grow.