Another new person topic... !

Chinese elm comes from a wide range, from subtropical Taiwan and coastal mainland China, all the way into the interior and mountainous areas. Warm humid summers are the norm, and cold dry winters. Right now it is spring, as long as your night time lows are above freezing you will be okay. Any temperature above 4 C at night won't even stress the tree. Likely it could go outside now.

I imagine yours is of seed of coastal origin, capable of surviving in subtropical regions. But they do have the genetics to get through most winters over most of the UK. Cold hardiness is not instantaneous, it needs to be ''built up'' toward the end of the growing season.

If grown outdoors, the weeks before the first frost the elm will change its physiology, begin withdrawing nutrients and chlorophyll from the leaves. (cause of autumn leaf color). Night time temps in autumn below 8 C will signal to the tree its time to get ready for winter. At least 4 weeks of above 0 C, but below 8 C at night are needed to ''harden off'' your elm. Once acclimated lower temperatures and the leaves drop, temperatures to -10C should be no problem. Especially if sited where it can freeze and stay frozen all winter. A spot in the shade, on the ground or pot buried in the ground works well. Winter sun on the branches can cause branch die back. Shade in winter is helpful.

Soil expands when frozen, which can break a pot, many whith trees in expensive pots choose to winter their trees between 0C and 4 C. This is cold enough to meet dormancy reuirements for most species, not only elms. If you have an unheated porch, sunroom, garage, or other area where it stays just above freezing, this is a good spot to winter your trees in general. If they drop their leaves a deciduous tree won't need light in winter. Making many structures good locations for wintering trees.

Now your Chinese elm is likely to be from a more sub-tropical climate. It will adapt to the cold as described, but you could also grow it warmer if you had a cool greenhouse where temps run above freezing. Letting it chill down in autumn outside, then keep it cool to cold (less tha 10 C but above 0C) for 8 to 12 weeks, will likely meet its dormancy requirements. Then it will begin to grow. When growing they need full sun to get tight growth with short internodes. If youdon't have a sunny greenhouse, or south facing windows you won't get enough light over winter to keep it happy. You will end up pruning off the weak and leggy winter growth in spring anyway. So even though you could probably keep it growing indoors over winter, your tree's design won't benefit much from doing so. My recommendation would be to let it go dormant in autumn, and keep it cold enough to stay dormant all winter, then just putting it out in spring.

Wow thats some amazing information. I almost thought you just copy and pasted that from somewhere. Thank you for taking the time to type that for me. Really good info that I will no doubt reread quite a few times. Interesting to learn about the process by which during autumn it prepares for the cold then it withstands very cold in winter then comes back out ready for summer again.
If I had any other questions about clarifying parts of that info, is it best to maybe PM you or reply to this thread? If you don't mind that is. Thanks again, that's great.
I was planning to keep it indoors but I'll take your advice and work out a place for it outside.
 
I knew my wiring job was far from perfect lol, thanks. First time, it found it quite difficult.. Especially the thicker gauge, tough to bend, as the tree is small and quite tiny features to bend round and bet in between. I see the wire curve you mentioned, as its in the curve of the trunk. Thanks for that, I'll try make that adjustment, it's not had the wire on for long so should be OK to adjust. Once I see the wire get tight and think it's good, I'll remove and let it grow for the season, as suggested.

Uh oh sounds like you may have used steel wire? Not much debate about this as we use just about exclusively Aluminum or annealed Copper wire. Proper size is not so hard to bend. Also does not rust. Ease of bending also helps prevent from injuring trees bark and breaking things off one might wish to keep;).
 
Uh oh sounds like you may have used steel wire? Not much debate about this as we use just about exclusively Aluminum or annealed Copper wire. Proper size is not so hard to bend. Also does not rust. Ease of bending also helps prevent from injuring trees bark and breaking things off one might wish to keep;).

It was Aluminium wire, just checked. I read about the 2 mainly used types, that you mentioned and made sure not to use anything odd.
http://www.allthingsbonsai.co.uk/shop/wire-2/bonsai-wire-starter-kit/

I'm just weak maybe :). A trick I found out was to give yourself a lot of wire so when bending, you can use the length for leverage (someone's gotta make a joke about that...), that worked nicely. But still, not easy in the small parts of the tree.
Thanks, I keep checking to make sure I get the wire off in time, so it doesn't damage the tree.
 
Yes, give yourself some extra wire. The wire on the branch looks ok (close and good space between coils). Anchoring must be better, don't cross, think always a few steps ahead. When bending branches down, start with the wire on the upper side, otherwise you will tear at the nodge... or create gaps...
 
You've bent the branches down, now use the wire to put curves in the branches too. The trunk curves. The branches should, too.
 
If Leo types of plants.....

It is valuable information.

Honest, well written, and experienced.

Less than a year farming the Blueberries and probably more knowledgable on it than a 30 year vet.

Leo devours information like a caterpillar does a leaf....and then shares.

Thanks @Leo in N E Illinois .

Sorce
 
I'm just weak maybe :). A trick I found out was to give yourself a lot of wire so when bending, you can use the length for leverage (someone's gotta make a joke about that...), that worked nicely. But still, not easy in the small parts of the tree.

Not at all. I use length of wire technique for leverage as well. The trick is to get right length of wire for particular branch/trunk without being too short:mad: or wasting much either:confused:.
 
It . . . . so when bending, you can use the length for leverage . . . worked nicely. But still, not easy in the small parts . . . . I keep checking to make sure I get. . .
We are still talking about trees, correct?
Seriously, welcome to the insanity that is our hobby/obsession.

There is your predicted joke.
 
Yes, give yourself some extra wire. The wire on the branch looks ok (close and good space between coils). Anchoring must be better, don't cross, think always a few steps ahead. When bending branches down, start with the wire on the upper side, otherwise you will tear at the nodge... or create gaps...
You've bent the branches down, now use the wire to put curves in the branches too. The trunk curves. The branches should, too.

Thanks, sorry for the delay in replying. Yes, I think the technique left much to be desired but I'm happy with it for a first time. I'm not trying to change the style much with the wires, just sort of it did to try it out really. With the curves Adair, I agree but aren't the directions of the branches just down to personal taste in what style you are trying for?

Not at all. I use length of wire technique for leverage as well. The trick is to get right length of wire for particular branch/trunk without being too short:mad: or wasting much either:confused:.

Agreed, thanks :).

Youtube graham potter. He's a British bloke.

Are you just saying "he's British, link him something British"? Lol. I'll check him out, hopefully his advice will suit me well due to the weather we would both have. Thanks :), something to look up later.
 
Last edited:
Leo is always helpful and thorough. Search out his posts and plagiarize into a best selling book.
Thanks again Leo as I picked up more tips for my C Elm here.
If Leo types of plants.....

It is valuable information.

Honest, well written, and experienced.

Less than a year farming the Blueberries and probably more knowledgable on it than a 30 year vet.

Leo devours information like a caterpillar does a leaf....and then shares.

Thanks @Leo in N E Illinois .

Sorce

Ah, I thought Sorce was the local celebrity but turns out Leo is the real boss!
I like to try and research things as much as I can. If something grabs my attention enough to become passionate about it, it's easy to get lost reading as much as possible. Even better when someone already knows it and gives you a post with it all, like Leo did.

We are still talking about trees, correct?
Seriously, welcome to the insanity that is our hobby/obsession.

There is your predicted joke.

Thanks, someone had to do it :).
 
Ah, I thought Sorce was the local celebrity but turns out Leo is the real boss!
I like to try and research things as much as I can. If something grabs my attention enough to become passionate about it, it's easy to get lost reading as much as possible. Even better when someone already knows it and gives you a post with it all, like Leo did.

If you think about it.....

I guess I am the celebrity....
Worthless entertainment!

Leo is the hort boss!

Just note certainly....
When it comes to design, I am never fooling around.

Pretty Counts...
That's why I love Colin Lewis.

Sorce
 
If you think about it.....

I guess I am the celebrity....
Worthless entertainment!

Leo is the hort boss!

Just note certainly....
When it comes to design, I am never fooling around.

Pretty Counts...
That's why I love Colin Lewis.

Sorce

I'm just going to look him up I think, looks good. And online classes to watch, so I think I might do that! Not whilst at work of course... well, maybe.
Cheers,

I think I'm going to start a new thread later maybe with just some random questions I have and about styling.

Conor
 
I'm just going to look him up I think, looks good. And online classes to watch, so I think I might do that! Not whilst at work of course... well, maybe.
Cheers,

I think I'm going to start a new thread later maybe with just some random questions I have and about styling.

Conor

Google for a Ryan Neil video on objective Bonsai design.....excellent info.
I've posted it here....I believe it is in Canberra. But that may be a Walter Pall series....which would also be an excellent view.

All the Bjorn Bonsai Art of Japan Videos are excellent as well.

If watching everything by those 3 artists doesn't get you right.....
Judge Mathis would call you out as a Crackhead!

Sorce
 
Google for a Ryan Neil video on objective Bonsai design.....excellent info.
I've posted it here....I believe it is in Canberra. But that may be a Walter Pall series....which would also be an excellent view.

All the Bjorn Bonsai Art of Japan Videos are excellent as well.

If watching everything by those 3 artists doesn't get you right.....
Judge Mathis would call you out as a Crackhead!

Sorce

Maybe I should know.. But I've no idea who judge Mathis is lol. Remember I'm English :).

I'll keep them in mind to watch. I watch about an hours worth of YouTube a night so I should be able to watch them. I bet he has no lack of sun in Canberra.

Walking home at the moment and it's nice and sunny, all I can think of making sure my bonsai is in it! God. What have I become.
 
Back
Top Bottom