Airlayering a juniper - Step by Step

[golf72]

Great post on air layering. I am going to make an attempt at some airlayering this year and this information helps. I know that no two layers are the same but as an example how long would it take for let's say a Juniper to root with this method? Is there a guide as to how much top growth you can have above the layer so that the new roots can support it or is this dictated by how long you let the roots grow when layering?

Thanks

 

[R_F]

$50 is a steal for this.

I agree. I had very little idea what I would do with it when I bought it. But with the twisting in the trunk I couldn't resist trying. I'm glad I did. At the time I knew close to nothing about junipers and almost walked away from it.

 

[R_F]

One other thing, Ryan--are you right handed or left handed? The Japanese grafting knives are made each way, since they are one-sided and can't really be used upside-down.

Chris

That's good to know...I'm right handed. Thanks for the heads up!

 

[R_F]

Great post on air layering. I am going to make an attempt at some airlayering this year and this information helps. I know that no two layers are the same but as an example how long would it take for let's say a Juniper to root with this method? Is there a guide as to how much top growth you can have above the layer so that the new roots can support it or is this dictated by how long you let the roots grow when layering?

Thanks

Hi golf,

Glad this post was of some use to you. Like I stated in an earlier post this is a half blind attempt by me because I have very little experience with junipers. I have heard it takes about 4 months in my climate to grow sufficient roots on juniper layers (sounds a little short and I am skeptical of this time frame.). I really have no idea how long I should let the layer develop before I should remove it. I have heard that I should remove it at the soonest by next spring to only 4 months from now. I'm hoping some one who has experience with junipers will way in on this. You have the same questions I do and I'm glad you asked them.

Ryan

 

[Dav4]

You should have no problem growing roots in 4 months. Ideally, the moss will be full of roots by the time you seperate later this summer/early fall.

Dave

 

[R_F]

You should have no problem growing roots in 4 months. Ideally, the moss will be full of roots by the time you seperate later this summer/early fall.

Dave

Hi Dave,

Thanks. I 'll be sure to post photos prior to removing it from the parent plant.

Ryan

 

[Graydon]

Ryan I layered a shimpaku last year that I purchased when I was out on the west coast. I started the layer late in the year and separated it early fall. It didn't have much rootage at all but I decided to go ahead and make the cut. It did well over the winter and there are roots poking out of the bottom of the colander it's currently in. I didn't take notes or photos but I believe it was only 3 to 4 months. They seem pretty resilient and layer easily. I would say wait until fall if you have the patience. Those new roots are pretty fragile... give them the time they need.

When I have a moment I'll shoot a shot of the layered material. Kind of a sweet little tree.

 

[R_F]

Ryan I layered a shimpaku last year that I purchased when I was out on the west coast. I started the layer late in the year and separated it early fall. It didn't have much rootage at all but I decided to go ahead and make the cut. It did well over the winter and there are roots poking out of the bottom of the colander it's currently in. I didn't take notes or photos but I believe it was only 3 to 4 months. They seem pretty resilient and layer easily. I would say wait until fall if you have the patience. Those new roots are pretty fragile... give them the time they need.

When I have a moment I'll shoot a shot of the layered material. Kind of a sweet little tree.

Thanks for sharing your first hand experience. I think I will definitely wait to remove it in the fall.

You should post a pic of yours when you get a chance, I'd like to see it.

Ryan

 

[mapleman77]

One other thing, Ryan--are you right handed or left handed? The Japanese grafting knives are made each way, since they are one-sided and can't really be used upside-down.

Chris

Also, the "x-handed" blade that you get is the OPPOSITE of what your strong hand is. I'm left handed, so whenever I start to graft, I'll get a right handed blade. The reason is because you pull the blade TOWARDS you, not away from you. I actually read this from one of Brent's articles. Just thought I'd pass this tidbit along...

David

 

[Bonsai Nut]

I guess the only thing I would suggest is removing the foil. My air-layers do best in full sun. If the moss is moist the roots will not burn. Perhaps it is heat from the sun? I don't know. However having just the plastic makes it much easier to keep an eye on the layer and know when to add water and when roots are starting to poke out.

 

[R_F]

I guess the only thing I would suggest is removing the foil. My air-layers do best in full sun. If the moss is moist the roots will not burn. Perhaps it is heat from the sun? I don't know. However having just the plastic makes it much easier to keep an eye on the layer and know when to add water and when roots are starting to poke out.

I have no Idea if the foil being placed over an airlayer has any validity or not...I just do it cause I read it somewhere. All but one of the layers I have made in the past have taken. I guess in theory roots dislike light and the foil helps to block light out. I wonder if the absence of light helps the roots grow faster or vice versa the presence of light slows them down?

 

[Chris Johnston]

Also, the "x-handed" blade that you get is the OPPOSITE of what your strong hand is. I'm left handed, so whenever I start to graft, I'll get a right handed blade. The reason is because you pull the blade TOWARDS you, not away from you. I actually read this from one of Brent's articles. Just thought I'd pass this tidbit along...

David

Hmmm I haven't tried pulling toward me, but I think the difference may be that Brent was speaking about base grafting for propagation purposes. For grafting buds or approach grafting, I always push away from myself. It's possible that it may be good to have one of each so you can find your best approach to a particular situation.

Chris

 

[Brent]

Graydon (who is a master carpenter) was puzzled when I explained that I pulled the knife toward me when grafting. He is very safety conscious and always makes sure that the business end of the cutting tool is moving away from him. The problem with pushing the blade rather than pulling it is that you have a lot more control with a pulling action, and thus it is easier to get that perfectly flat surface that you need for good mating.

It really isn't any more dangerous, you just have to pay attention to what you are doing and where all your fingers and toes are. If the knife slips, it goes into the pot and not into my belly. Check out the YouTube of me grafting to see how I do it. I can't imagine grafting any other way. Although I haven't done any grafting on larger material, my inclination would be to put the tree between and the cut and pull the blade into the cut, rather than try to push it into the material.

Brent
EvergreenGardenworks.com
see our blog at http://BonsaiNurseryman.typepad.com

 

[Graydon]

Nice to see you posting Brent, and thanks for the compliment. I need to amend my stance on how I use the knife. After watching your video and discussing this with you in the past I have adopted the method you describe. At first I was a bit freaked out as it does go against everything I have learned about sharp (I mean scary sharp) edges. It was a bit awkward at first but I think I have it down pat. My pine grafts from last season seem to have about the same take percentage. I taught myself how to graft - and I just learned the wrong way.

All this talk of grafting and air layers has made me get my knives out and sharpen them again. Time to do some grafting soon.

 

[R_F]

Just to update.....

I checked the airlayer last week and no roots....and it appears as though it is trying to heal over.

I'd like to try again. Do you guys have any thoughts? Should I cut again?

 

[Smoke]

I always let juniper layers dry a day or two up to a week before mossing and containing. The drying process just helps in a formation of callous which is needed before roots will issue.

No it will not die!

 

[R_F]

Thanks Al,

So you think I should re-cut and then let it dry for a couple days and then re-pack with moss and hormone? It is growing strong and healthy by the way. Sorry if it's a dumb question....but I really want this to work!

 

[cquinn]

I always let juniper layers dry a day or two up to a week before mossing and containing. The drying process just helps in a formation of callous which is needed before roots will issue.

No it will not die!

Now that's good info. you don't find in a book.

 

[R_F]

Well....

I decided to cut again. I think the first time i cut it wasn't deep enough and I don't think I removed enough of the bark and subsequent layers. So, I made another cut, let it dry for a day and have added more rooting hormone, moss, etc.

I'm hoping this works!

 

[Graydon]

Ryan I layered a shimpaku last year that I purchased when I was out on the west coast. I started the layer late in the year and separated it early fall. It didn't have much rootage at all but I decided to go ahead and make the cut. It did well over the winter and there are roots poking out of the bottom of the colander it's currently in. I didn't take notes or photos but I believe it was only 3 to 4 months. They seem pretty resilient and layer easily. I would say wait until fall if you have the patience. Those new roots are pretty fragile... give them the time they need.

When I have a moment I'll shoot a shot of the layered material. Kind of a sweet little tree.

Bizarre but both the mother and the layer are dead. I have been so busy working the past few weeks I finally had some daylight today and to my shock I have 2 nearly all brown trees. They appear to still be getting water and three other shimpaku in proximity are fine so I am at a loss on this one.