Advice on Broom style creation

[raffaelbaer]

After reading trough some of the Broom style creation threads here on Bnut, I wanted to try myself.
I've found some great inspiration from @Eric Schrader , he has a naturalistic Zelkova Broom, I really havent really seen before other than on some of @Walter Pall 's trees:




Wanting to get my project looking similar too this, I wonder, if what of these two options would be best to trunk chop in a few years:

Do a clean horizontal cut, select 2-3 branches, and let them grow out as subtrunks.
Do the same horizontal cut, and selecting 2-3 branches and then notching / carving the trunk out, like discribed in japanese books and magazines.


What wil the notching exactly do, and will it help me create realistic looking subtrunks?
I though of it as a similar technique as carving out the center hardwood, described in some threads here, which directs the callus swelling inwards (together with the clamp method).


@Eric Schrader , maybe if you've got some Input for me on how you did this tree, it would be amazing!
I assume, your Zelkova had a natural split, and you grew it out like that?
My cherry will have a lot of growing to do (beeing at 2cm trunk diameter), when wanting a finished 35cm ~ 14 inch tree, with a trunk diameter of arround 5cm ~ 2 inches, for a good trunk / height ratio.

---

Hopefully any of you can help me sort the process out, for creating a nice naturalistic Broom like Eric's

Cheers
Raffael

 

[eugenev2]

After reading trough some of the Broom style creation threads here on Bnut, I wanted to try myself.
I've found some great inspiration from @Eric Schrader , he has a naturalistic Zelkova Broom, I really havent really seen before other than on some of @Walter Pall 's trees:

View attachment 564164


Wanting to get my project looking similar too this, I wonder, if what of these two options would be best to trunk chop in a few years:

Do a clean horizontal cut, select 2-3 branches, and let them grow out as subtrunks.
Do the same horizontal cut, and selecting 2-3 branches and then notching / carving the trunk out, like discribed in japanese books and magazines.


What wil the notching exactly do, and will it help me create realistic looking subtrunks?
I though of it as a similar technique as carving out the center hardwood, described in some threads here, which directs the callus swelling inwards (together with the clamp method).


@Eric Schrader , maybe if you've got some Input for me on how you did this tree, it would be amazing!
I assume, your Zelkova had a natural split, and you grew it out like that?
My cherry will have a lot of growing to do (beeing at 2cm trunk diameter), when wanting a finished 35cm ~ 14 inch tree, with a trunk diameter of arround 5cm ~ 2 inches, for a good trunk / height ratio.

---

Hopefully any of you can help me sort the process out, for creating a nice naturalistic Broom like Eric's

Cheers
Raffael

The people you tagged in your post will provide great info...but...
If i understand it correctly, the tree in the above picture is not your tree, so unless you want completely generic information, post a picture of your tree as this would affect the suggestion people will make

 

[raffaelbaer]

The people you tagged in your post will provide great info...but...
If i understand it correctly, the tree in the above picture is not your tree, so unless you want completely generic information, post a picture of your tree as this would affect the suggestion people will make

shure understand,
My question was only regarding about the general technique / generic Info, since the tree definitely isn't at the stage to think about further development (other then nebari work), its, straight as an arrow, no lower branching. I will let it grow out until described techniques could be applied (chop, and branch selection...).

Thanks for your reply though!

Cheers
Raffael

 

[NateDyk47]

shure understand,
My question was only regarding about the general technique / generic Info, since the tree definitely isn't at the stage to think about further development (other then nebari work), its, straight as an arrow, no lower branching. I will let it grow out until described techniques could be applied (chop, and branch selection...).

Thanks for your reply though!

Cheers
Raffael

A picture of the tree you're planning to do this work on will still be helpful

 

[raffaelbaer]

shure, there ya go!

Like I said, still a lot of growing to do until 5cm ~ 2 inches diameter (probably 3-4 years, since its really vigorous)....

Its prunus padus, a common cherry tree, which has beautiful white flowers in spring, ramifies good, and the leaves reduce quite to a pleasing size, when handled correctly / ramified enough. Really vigorous grower also!

Nebari was worked on this spring, looks really promising so far!

Too fit in my final composition I will eventually chop it down to 12cm height ~ 5 inches and then grow out the subtrunks, like discribed in the above!



Cheers
Raffael

 

[pmalelis]

Bump, Interested on tried techniques for Broom style development. Want to try an American Elm

 

[pmalelis]

shure, there ya go!

Like I said, still a lot of growing to do until 5cm ~ 2 inches diameter (probably 3-4 years, since its really vigorous)....

Its prunus padus, a common cherry tree, which has beautiful white flowers in spring, ramifies good, and the leaves reduce quite to a pleasing size, when handled correctly / ramified enough. Really vigorous grower also!

Nebari was worked on this spring, looks really promising so far!

Too fit in my final composition I will eventually chop it down to 12cm height ~ 5 inches and then grow out the subtrunks, like discribed in the above!

View attachment 564218

Cheers
Raffael

Found this nice video where he did the chop and notch/dremel technique and ramified from there. There are 2 other update videos.

 

[raffaelbaer]

Found this nice video where he did the chop and notch/dremel technique and ramified from there. There are 2 other update videos.

Already watched it, was almost exactly what I was looking for! Hes just going for a bit different style!

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

There are several good thread on creation of broom style bonsai. All show progression and technique over the years with comments and suggestions. Here are two of my favorites.

@Markyscott. Chuhin broom Elmi

@Mellow Mullet. Trying to make a broom style bonsai

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Shibui]

Do a clean horizontal cut, select 2-3 branches, and let them grow out as subtrunks.
Do the same horizontal cut, and selecting 2-3 branches and then notching / carving the trunk out, like discribed in japanese books and magazines.

It may depend on the species. The notching/carving is trying to reduce the swelling caused by the chop healing. Elms tend to swell significantly if several large branches develop. That adds to any swelling from the callus as the chop heals. Notching the trunk between the new trunks allows swelling both inside and outside so reduces the thickening.
I've also seen some use hose clamps or some other binding in an attempt to reduce swelling.
Notching also allows for a more natural transition from the thick lower trunk into the thinner new sub-trunks.

Not sure how much the Prunus will swell as it heals.

I doubt the zelkova you showed as inspiration was developed with a thick trunk chop. Looks more like much slower development to get that structure. I will be interested to see what the owner says.

 

[leatherback]

I doubt the zelkova you showed as inspiration was developed with a thick trunk chop. Looks more like much slower development to get that structure. I will be interested to see what the owner says.

add to that the different styles of broome. The one shown is one where a smaller number of banches start at one level, and these build side-branches. It is almost an informal upright. This style is how I see many of our free-growing oaks.

A more traditional broome has many branches starting at the same level which will be more of an effort.

 

[Dan92119]

I have tried bigger broom style with Chinese elm....I always have issue with the first branches growing out in the place I want them! I get a lot on one side and nothing on the other. =(

 

[Shibui]

I have tried bigger broom style with Chinese elm....I always have issue with the first branches growing out in the place I want them! I get a lot on one side and nothing on the other. =(

Light plays a big part in branch health and growth. Does your tree have equal sunlight all round or is it kept near a fence or wall? Do you rotate the tree regularly to give equal access to sun?

 

[Dan92119]

Light plays a big part in branch health and growth. Does your tree have equal sunlight all round or is it kept near a fence or wall? Do you rotate the tree regularly to give equal access to sun?

The one I am chopped this year has good sun, still just one side of growth. In the spring I am going to cut a bit on the side with no growth and see if I can get it going.

 

[raffaelbaer]

add to that the different styles of broome. The one shown is one where a smaller number of banches start at one level, and these build side-branches. It is almost an informal upright. This style is how I see many of our free-growing oaks.

A more traditional broome has many branches starting at the same level which will be more of an effort.

exactly, but I like this more "naturalistic" approach, we've got 3 huge oaks in on our property here and they've always fascinated me, they look similiar structure wise, like the zelkove from eric. Walter Pall calls it informal Broom form...

 

[Matte91]

 

[Matte91]

 

[leatherback]

View attachment 571216

I like this graph that seems to be the only one that shows it is not a v-cut that is made when creating a traditional broome, but rather a depression in the top of the trunk. The latter is how I always understood things, but I always see people making a v-cut

 

[Wood]

What's the solution for preventing water collecting in that spot then? A depression/indent in the trunk seems like it'd take years to fill in or heal over completely. I'm a bit worried about the heartwood rotting there until that point

fwiw, my broom trunk is currently flat cut and covered with cut paste

 

[Matte91]

What's the solution for preventing water collecting in that spot then? A depression/indent in the trunk seems like it'd take years to fill in or heal over completely. I'm a bit worried about the heartwood rotting there until that point

fwiw, my broom trunk is currently flat cut and covered with cut paste

Let the heartwood rot. Go out in nature and have a look or see the attached photo of one of the best brooms in Europe (it's not my tree). All the heartwood is gone.