Abrupt Re-Direction of branches

[parhamr]

Does anyone have direct knowledge of the success of wedge cuts in mountain hemlock?

in my case its a 3” trunk, nursery stocked Ive had in a grow box for a year. i have lots of height leverage to work with that will be coming off later.

Scott Elser has done this to mountain hemlock! I have only heard him describe the technique but haven’t seen it visually so I’m not quite sure I know the nuts and bolts.

It sounds like he removes a section and then bends around it. I couldn’t quite tell if he was removing from the “face” of the trunk (along the vertical grain) or “inside” the core of the wood, like a captured empty space. I might have misunderstood one of his metaphors or similes.

I think your plan is ideal. Go for it!

p.s. BSOP has some metalworking production plans afoot. If you’re up for it I’ll put you down as a possible contributor.

 

[leatherback]

Not I do NOT recommend the wedgecut, mainly because I do not recall ever seeing a trunk bent using this technique & healing over nicely. I really would like to see an example, if someone has one.

What I do is different, it really is removing core-wood, leaving the bark and outer woord as intact as possible

 

[Rivka]

p.s. BSOP has some metalworking production plans afoot. If you’re up for it I’ll put you down as a possible contributor.

Yeah please loop me in on anything I can help with.

What I do is different, it really is removing core-wood, leaving the bark and outer woord as intact as possible

Would you explain your process? Is it unique to hemlock or your general preference over wedge cuts? If you are not removing outer layers on the inside of the bend, are they just smoooshing together?

 

[penumbra]

What I do is different, it really is removing core-wood, leaving the bark and outer woord as intact as possible

I too would like a little more information here. I have a few larger conifers that could benefit from a more severe bend.

 

[leatherback]

Take a rotary tool. Make a narrow slit parallel to the grain of the wood on the future inside of the bend. And through this slit, carve out the inner core, taking care not to go through on the other side, effectively slightly hollowing the trunk/branch. Wrap up with raffia / tape. Be surprised at the easy with which the branch bends in that spot.

Would have sworn I took pictures but.. Cannot find it.

Before


After:

 

[penumbra]

Take a rotary tool. Make a narrow slit parallel to the grain of the wood on the future inside of the bend. And through this slit, carve out the inner core, taking care not to go through on the other side, effectively slightly hollowing the trunk/branch. Wrap up with raffia / tape. Be surprised at the easy with which the branch bends in that spot.

Would have sworn I took pictures but.. Cannot find it.

Before
View attachment 412278

After:
View attachment 412279

Thanks. That is kinda what I thought. Have you ever attempted this during dormancy? I am willing to try it but feel like I should wait about two months.

 

[leatherback]

Have you ever attempted this during dormancy?

Did these two mid October, does that count? Kept frost free till now. Next week frost again, but will leave it out this time.

 

[penumbra]

Did these two mid October, does that count? Kept frost free till now. Next week frost again, but will leave it out this time.

It does. I missed early fall season so now I guess it is best to wait until the end of winter.

 

[bwaynef]

I wouldn't try this with a maple.

I did something very similar with a maple this spring and it didn't miss a beat. I didn't cut out a notch, just a slit, and the tree isn't exactly old, but I managed to reposition a branch angle at the crotch.

 

[River's Edge]

When I have a heavy bend to do on a stiffer section I have found that cutting a longitudinal slot works best. The slot is filled with wire, wrapped and wired then the bend is made. if done correctly the wire is removed later and the edges can heal together. I have had success with Juniper, Cedar, trskumo cypress. Basically each time I have chosen to use the technique.
It is advisable to position the slot to be underneath the bend hidden in the design.
Here are a few pictures of the method taken when my teacher Boon demonstrated the technique during an intensive on a collected Sierra juniper. I did not include each step or written directions but the method is illustrated by the four pictures I include.
The pictures were taken in 2009, the tree is in my collection today, and thriving the cut for the bend almost completely healed and under the bend so not at all visible in the design.

 

[leatherback]

When I have a heavy bend to do on a stiffer section I have found that cutting a longitudinal slot works best. The slot is filled with wire, wrapped and wired then the bend is made. if done correctly the wire is removed later and the edges can heal together. I have had success with Juniper, Cedar, trskumo cypress. Basically each time I have chosen to use the technique.
It is advisable to position the slot to be underneath the bend hidden in the design.
Here are a few pictures of the method taken when my teacher Boon demonstrated the technique during an intensive on a collected Sierra juniper. I did not include each step or written directions but the method is illustrated by the four pictures I include.
The pictures were taken in 2009, the tree is in my collection today, and thriving the cut for the bend almost completely healed and under the bend so not at all visible in the design.

yup, this is very similar to what I do. I try to keep more of the "shell" of the branch, so that the cut is less prominent (But also hampers inserting wire, which I therefor do not do!).