Anyone try using gibberellic acid (Ga3) on seeds to lessen stratification and or other things

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Probably weird question but seen people in other forums post about using gibberellic acid to lessen/hadten germination from long stratification species like passiflora and thought it was worth ask if anyone's dabbled or tried it say with Japanese maples species or in general. Thought worth a topic maybe .
 

Bonsai Nut

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Since there have been no response on this interesting topic, I'm just going to pop in to say "no I have not tried it".

Personally, I haven't seen the need, since I cold stratify my seeds in a refrigerator so they are ready to go exactly when I am ready to plant them in the spring. But if you could accelerate the process without harming the plant, it would certainly be beneficial!
 
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Since there have been no response on this interesting topic, I'm just going to pop in to say "no I have not tried it".

Personally, I haven't seen the need, since I cold stratify my seeds in a refrigerator so they are ready to go exactly when I am ready to plant them in the spring. But if you could accelerate the process without harming the plant, it would certainly be beneficial!
Yea understandable, mainly was wondering on dry maple old seed where it's said to stratify for 90 - 120 warm 90 - 120 cold stratification. Figured on looking at odd posts on passiflora that can take up to 1 to 2 years stratification they have recommended Ga3 that then can alter them to sprout as early as 1 to 3 months. So wondered if worked for some species how may work on long stratification maple dry old seed ect . Not that I'd use it, just curious. But thanks for at least shooting a comment.
 

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From what little I know, there is some evidence that gibberellic acid applied in the wrong concentrations can inhibit rooting in cuttings. Haven't seen anyone using it for seeds..
 
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From what little I know, there is some evidence that gibberellic acid applied in the wrong concentrations can inhibit rooting in cuttings. Haven't seen anyone using it for seeds..
Np ,it's definitely used in seeds . Lots ive seen on Google. You are indeed correct too much can Inhabit, whereas too little does nothing. But it's definitely been used on some species but I wasn't sure if anyone's tried on maple seeds given longer stratification times when they are old and dry .
 

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Hi, I am trying GA3 on a Stewartia Monadelpha seeds this year. i have had very little success germinating them in the past so I wanted to give it a boost. Too soon to tell though, i just started in November and it is 4 months warm and 3 months of cold stratification. It is relatively inexpensive so why not try it?
 

Kievnstavick

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After replying on another thread of yours, I went and bought some Ga3 that is getting delivered tomorrow.

I mostly bought it to use a foliar spray since some of the articles I have read linked Ga3 to flowering and the amount of flowers. I figured I could test it on some of my peppers to see if I can see a noticeable difference. I also have this idea in my head that I might get my baobabs to develop flowers (despite knowing they are potentially too young to be mature) using Ga3 on them.

The idea to use Ga3 to break the necessary stratification seems interesting enough. According to Cmeg1, a long kelp soak seems just as effective. I think the biggest take away is using the chemicals to help break down the inhibitors/seed coating in order to allow the seed to germinate.
 
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After replying on another thread of yours, I went and bought some Ga3 that is getting delivered tomorrow.

I mostly bought it to use a foliar spray since some of the articles I have read linked Ga3 to flowering and the amount of flowers. I figured I could test it on some of my peppers to see if I can see a noticeable difference. I also have this idea in my head that I might get my baobabs to develop flowers (despite knowing they are potentially too young to be mature) using Ga3 on them.

The idea to use Ga3 to break the necessary stratification seems interesting enough. According to Cmeg1, a long kelp soak seems just as effective. I think the biggest take away is using the chemicals to help break down the inhibitors/seed coating in order to allow the seed to germinate.
Yea that was my thoughts . I've seen in my fb passiflora group people doing it on the seeds to break down and speed up germination and lessen stratification requirements and read a bit on other random Google places other species. My thoughts were that if had starting place if anyone has tried or had thoughts to how much, it may lessen and speed up the 120 warm 120 cold stratification on dry older Japanese maple seeds versus how fresh can be germinated so much easier and faster. Worst case I could buy a few packets more on side and experiment. The main seed packets I bought I wont given they won't honor if any don't grow unless they are grown as instructed . But figured for information and interest had hoped might know if anyone's tried. I have definitely heard also as above was posted to much can cause backlash and to little does jack all nothing . . Either way I'm grateful to anyone responding since it's all about learning in bonsai and groups and thats always great good or bad .
 

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Osoyoung pointed me to JL Hudson, Seedsman as a resource (good info there) and Michael at his Bonsai Harmony website has a discussion about getting female Princess persimmon to fruit without male plants by spraying the flowers with Ga3 while in bloom. Interesting stuff…
 

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I have used it in the past.
At the wrong concentration it will screw your seedlings over for life. It can inhibit germination as well, and deregulate other processes.
I got a couple dwarfisms induced, or went from 40% germination to a 100% forever dormancy.

If you're going to work with this stuff, make sure you store it well, know how to dissolve it, and for sure know how to do math with moles, liters, milliliters, micrograms, milligrams and related conversions.

Not all plant hormones are safe for humans either. So make sure you read the documentation amd google around a little.

For germination, if you feel the need for GA3, maybe check your seed source or technique instead.. I've found over the years that this is way more effective. Some seeds don't germinate because they're dead. GA3 isn't going to help in those cases. Also the concentration in literature is often based on a certain "lab strain" of a plant, so it might not translate to wildtype.

Store lye and acids in bottles, inside a plastic tub-container at least the same volume as the bottles and never together. I've seen highly educated people pour liquid nitrogen down the drains, and then throwing in highly concentrated acid.. making a caustic bomb for everyone in the room.. I'm not saying anyone here is stupid, but please be careful! Some hormones require HCl or KOH solutions to be dissolved, and those are easy to make in excess.
 

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On other things I quote a citric producer: "Ag3 is like holy water, it serves to inhibit flowering, to set, for rapid growth, to delay maturation"
 
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I have used it in the past.
At the wrong concentration it will screw your seedlings over for life. It can inhibit germination as well, and deregulate other processes.
I got a couple dwarfisms induced, or went from 40% germination to a 100% forever dormancy.

If you're going to work with this stuff, make sure you store it well, know how to dissolve it, and for sure know how to do math with moles, liters, milliliters, micrograms, milligrams and related conversions.

Not all plant hormones are safe for humans either. So make sure you read the documentation amd google around a little.

For germination, if you feel the need for GA3, maybe check your seed source or technique instead.. I've found over the years that this is way more effective. Some seeds don't germinate because they're dead. GA3 isn't going to help in those cases. Also the concentration in literature is often based on a certain "lab strain" of a plant, so it might not translate to wildtype.

Store lye and acids in bottles, inside a plastic tub-container at least the same volume as the bottles and never together. I've seen highly educated people pour liquid nitrogen down the drains, and then throwing in highly concentrated acid.. making a caustic bomb for everyone in the room.. I'm not saying anyone here is stupid, but please be careful! Some hormones require HCl or KOH solutions to be dissolved, and those are easy to make in excess.
Yea that was my concern also is causing the seeds if are viable to malfunction or cause at worst zero germination. I was able pick up some 2023 Japanese maple seeds off sheffields. The rest I have are 2007 to 2019 and I plan on doing there recommendations on 90 to 120 warm stratification then 90 to 120 cold stratification. I also got few from another unknown source from friend offline feom online source and they said enjoy so thought to see if anyone's experienced Japanese maple dry seeds with Ga3 only . Other chemicals I avoid since idk a thing about them even more so and like you mentioned can be extremely volatile or dangerous. My household is pretty much zero chemical space ive been this way for Last 22 years and the wildlife (native toads , tree frogs (Grey's Coop's, and green tree frogs )have rebounded on my property versus when I moved in were none . Now every year there are hundreds to thousands born yearly which is awesome indicator of lands health . Sadly natice honey bee's are gone but bumble bees are so many so I worry other near properties might be using sprays killing off the bees or maybe another issue 🤔 (sorry ik extra tmi maybe) just been doing alot research on basic stratifications warm and cold and seen a few ways vary slightly. Hoping to have success naturally but was a thought for fun and just out of interest to ask on Ga3 thoughts. Mainly seeing 1 to 2 yr stratification sped up to 2 to 3 months was wild . Though like you mentioned might not be worth it if makes them dead or inert or damages the plant embryos. Can't thank everyone enough as this site has so much great information and so many different views on alot of things so never boring or anything . So much great reading and photos too
 

Wires_Guy_wires

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Yea that was my concern also is causing the seeds if are viable to malfunction or cause at worst zero germination. I was able pick up some 2023 Japanese maple seeds off sheffields. The rest I have are 2007 to 2019 and I plan on doing there recommendations on 90 to 120 warm stratification then 90 to 120 cold stratification. I also got few from another unknown source from friend offline feom online source and they said enjoy so thought to see if anyone's experienced Japanese maple dry seeds with Ga3 only . Other chemicals I avoid since idk a thing about them even more so and like you mentioned can be extremely volatile or dangerous. My household is pretty much zero chemical space ive been this way for Last 22 years and the wildlife (native toads , tree frogs (Grey's Coop's, and green tree frogs )have rebounded on my property versus when I moved in were none . Now every year there are hundreds to thousands born yearly which is awesome indicator of lands health . Sadly natice honey bee's are gone but bumble bees are so many so I worry other near properties might be using sprays killing off the bees or maybe another issue 🤔 (sorry ik extra tmi maybe) just been doing alot research on basic stratifications warm and cold and seen a few ways vary slightly. Hoping to have success naturally but was a thought for fun and just out of interest to ask on Ga3 thoughts. Mainly seeing 1 to 2 yr stratification sped up to 2 to 3 months was wild . Though like you mentioned might not be worth it if makes them dead or inert or damages the plant embryos. Can't thank everyone enough as this site has so much great information and so many different views on alot of things so never boring or anything . So much great reading and photos too
Awesome about the frogs man! I grew up loving the local amphibians and some very enthusiastic government projects wiped out two species of salamanders, three species of frogs, one species of newt and brought down biodiversity from 200+ species of plants to 4.

I found 3% peroxide to be a great dormancy breaker. A small dash of lemon juice (citric acid) can help too. So if you're going to soak them in something, add a bit of both. If anything, go with the peroxide as it's safe and known to be effective.
A small bit of liquid dishwash soap can help water penetrate deeper into the seed and act as a mild disinfectant to kill bacteria.
I use a regular teacups, half of the cup is 3% peroxide, half of it is tap water, and I add 3 drops of liquid dishwash soap. If you feel adventurous, a teaspoon of regular lemon juice can help. The drop in pH helps the plant produce a tad bit more acidic compounds that help break the hulls of seeds, and it's also highly likely that "natural acids" like peroxide and citric, are commonly produced by germinating seeds so they might jumpstart something that had issues with breaking the dormancy.

If you do a side by side, please keep us posted on the results!
 
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Aabsolutely will try this
Awesome about the frogs man! I grew up loving the local amphibians and some very enthusiastic government projects wiped out two species of salamanders, three species of frogs, one species of newt and brought down biodiversity from 200+ species of plants to 4.

I found 3% peroxide to be a great dormancy breaker. A small dash of lemon juice (citric acid) can help too. So if you're going to soak them in something, add a bit of both. If anything, go with the peroxide as it's safe and known to be effective.
A small bit of liquid dishwash soap can help water penetrate deeper into the seed and act as a mild disinfectant to kill bacteria.
I use a regular teacups, half of the cup is 3% peroxide, half of it is tap water, and I add 3 drops of liquid dishwash soap. If you feel adventurous, a teaspoon of regular lemon juice can help. The drop in pH helps the plant produce a tad bit more acidic compounds that help break the hulls of seeds, and it's also highly likely that "natural acids" like peroxide and citric, are commonly produced by germinating seeds so they might jumpstart something that had issues with breaking the dormancy.

If you do a side by side, please keep us posted on the results!
And keep you posted . Super great info and ideas thanks truly . I figure worst case if able get 1 tree per packet ill be happy if able sprout even 5 to 10% (some have said with dry Japanese maple seed/sheffields says they are 80 to 90% cut germination checked) we shall see. Very excited to try and see how things go. Love our forums group .
 

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What about cutting the embryo out of the seed aka rescue?

Often, it is the seed coat that is preventing germination. And if you are skilled enough to remove the coat, it might also reveal if the embryo is actually viable. I haven't tried this with maples, but in general this is a technique explored by plant research laps to speed things up. And maple seeds should be large enough that you can mechanically remove the seed coat. With something like pines, it should be even easier.

Otherwise, there are chemical ways to dissolve the seed coat. Peroxide is one. GA3 is sometimes part of these protocols as well.
 
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Yea
What about cutting the embryo out of the seed aka rescue?

Often, it is the seed coat that is preventing germination. And if you are skilled enough to remove the coat, it might also reveal if the embryo is actually viable. I haven't tried this with maples, but in general this is a technique explored by plant research laps to speed things up. And maple seeds should be large enough that you can mechanically remove the seed coat. With something like pines, it should be even easier.

Otherwise, there are chemical ways to dissolve the seed coat. Peroxide is one. GA3 is sometimes part of these protocols as well.
That's why I was thinking Ga3 sorta on some of them to see . Ofc majority I'd not do since thier guarantee is only if done as they recommend so was thinking of the extra seeds from another place to try Ga3 or something else . Since older dry Japanese maple seeds apparently take lots longer to stratify. Ive not heard about rescuing seed via there external coatings . Ill have check some things or see what everyone thinks . 🤔 good idea if it's a viable option. Just hadn't head of it before though doesn't mean it isn't a thing. Very good question though. @Bonsai Nut @19Mateo83 @Wires_Guy_wires any thoughts guise sorry btw if tagging is improper or frowned upon if so let me know I won't do anymore promise
 

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Before you spend hours sanding down and manually prying open seeds.. Maybe try half with just a regular method first?
I'm a lab technician, I'm fine with picking 3000 embryos per day from a petri dish.. But not everyone, or to be more precise: almost nobody, is cut out for that kind of labor.

Keep in mind that seedlings need space, you need rest and relaxation, and if you take cuttings from your seedlings they're going to be faster than any seed ever will.
Getting weakened seeds to germinate is one thing, but there's a reason why they're weak. They might not survive the first year. If you spend 5 minutes per seed, and then grow them up to meet certain death in a juvenile stage.. It might not be worth the effort.
When I read a 90% germination rate, I think it's awesome! 70? Nice! 40%? Also good! 30%? Okay, let's just double the purchase amount. If a couple extra dollars save me 6 hours of sanding seeds down I'm saving about a hundred dollar in labor costs.
I like experimenting and fiddling around, but sometimes I'm so laser focused on a certain technique that I forget the rest of the world has already solved that problem.
One time I made 300 different culture media compositions to take cuttings from a plant and getting them to root, and I spent about 500 euros doing so.. All the while I completely forgot that a new batch of seeds would cost me 15, and save me 6 months of experimenting.
 

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Before you spend hours sanding down and manually prying open seeds.. Maybe try half with just a regular method first?

100% Way better getting good seeds that just germinate by themselves.
But if they don't and you really need them to germinate, there's a bunch of techniques. Seems like you know a lot more about them than me.

There's a reason this stuff is mostly used for inter-species hybrids or other wide crosses or other wacky stuff.

Apparently, you can get embryos from Japanese pine tissue through tissue culture. But pines and maples give free seed. So what's the point (for us normal people)?

Similarly, chemicals like gibberellic acid, you probably also don't need. Through it cost way less time and money. You'd still have to fine tune your protocol. And no seed coat means a more consistent gibberellic acid application, probably.
 
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