Nishiki Air Layer

[Cmanz]

After two previous failed attempts, over a three year period, I have roots. I started this attempt in late May of 2014. I used the ring bark method coupled with a wire tourniquet. I also applied a 3% IBA talc based hormone. This was my first attempt using a strong hormone mix. The tree is a pinus thunbergii 'Hayabusa'.

 

[Jason_mazzy]

Congratulations

 

[Cmanz]

Just thought I would share the progress of this pine. I separated the layer yesterday and planted it in an eight inch bulb pan.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Well done! And with a good cultivar too.

 

[fredtruck]

This is really cool. I had no idea it could be done.

 

[thumblessprimate1]

That's great! You must have been so excited to see the roots.

 

[Cmanz]

I was so jazzed. Hopefully, in ten years, I'll have a sizable trunk and good root flare to work with.

Thanks all for the positive responces.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Definitely cool. I've had 3 younger 'Brocades' die on me (Brent lists Hayabusa as likely the same as Brocade). They went from healthy to gray in a matter of days. I think it was too much water, but I always wondered if the fast-corking nature caused some graft separation. You won't have to worry about that!

 

[Cmanz]

Definitely cool. I've had 3 younger 'Brocades' die on me (Brent lists Hayabusa as likely the same as Brocade). They went from healthy to gray in a matter of days. I think it was too much water, but I always wondered if the fast-corking nature caused some graft separation. You won't have to worry about that!

That is an interesting thought about graft separation. It makes sense with the speed that this cultivar grows. My parent tree is only 7-8 years old but has cork wings one half inch thick. If the parent ever dies I will be interested to dissect the graft with a chop saw.

Thanks

 

[0soyoung]

That is an interesting thought about graft separation. It makes sense with the speed that this cultivar grows. My parent tree is only 7-8 years old but has cork wings one half inch thick. If the parent ever dies I will be interested to dissect the graft with a chop saw.

I too think that would be most interesting. Ever thought about trying to graft scions from your Nishiki onto a standard p. thunbergii?

 

[edprocoat]

That is an interesting thought about graft separation. It makes sense with the speed that this cultivar grows. My parent tree is only 7-8 years old but has cork wings one half inch thick. If the parent ever dies I will be interested to dissect the graft with a chop saw.

Thanks

I gotta ask, why if the parent tree is fast growing and at 7 years old has a half inch thick bark would it take the layer 10 years to get a "sizable trunk " ?

ed

 

[aframe]

Thanks for the post; how old was the branch you layered? I read people have only had success with up to 3 year old branches...

 

[0soyoung]

Thanks for the post; how old was the branch you layered? I read people have only had success with up to 3 year old branches...

I hardly think this could be true. I've had to wait 2 to 3 years to get roots on p. thunbergii and JBP 'Thunderhead', starting with trunks/branches that were well over 3 years old when the layers were started. I suppose a Nishiki might be a different beast, but I am skeptical of this 'younger than 3 years to air layer' rumor.

Maybe the truth is that people don't have the patience to wait up to 3 years ... (fuel for more discussion/dissention/contention).

 

[Cmanz]

I too think that would be most interesting. Ever thought about trying to graft scions from your Nishiki onto a standard p. thunbergii?

I'm planning to do some grafts this spring of all my pine cultivars, mainly to have as stock plants for future air layers.

 

[Cmanz]

I gotta ask, why if the parent tree is fast growing and at 7 years old has a half inch thick bark would it take the layer 10 years to get a "sizable trunk " ?

ed

No science behind the 10 years. Just an estimate to get in to the 2+ inch trunk. I would be pleased if this tree gets there in less time.

 

[Cmanz]

Thanks for the post; how old was the branch you layered? I read people have only had success with up to 3 year old branches...

The branch was 1 year old. However I agree with Osoyoung about the "less than three" rumor. I think young material roots faster and more easily. Where as older wood is more reluctant to produce roots but not incapable.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Graft unions

To expand on Brian's comment, graft unions take more than one or two years to completely fuse. Some articles suggest that you can not be certain of complete fusion for upwards of 10 years. If you are tempted to purchase one year grafts from a discount nursery, the jostling the tree receives in shipping may be enough to separate the scion from the understock. So for the first 5 years at least grafted material must be treated gently. Absolutely never try to bend the graft union area. Never wire across a graft union, even to just stabilize the wiring & bending done higher up in the tree. Also, protect younger grafted material from hard freezing until the graft union is 5 or more years old, even if both scion and understock are hardy in your area, any ice crystals forming in the graft union could separate the scion off the understock.

Ok, my repeated use of the word never is perhaps too absolute, but the advise is for caution. Graft unions can look stronger than they actually are.

 

[carp]

I was under the impression that Nishiki were grafted (more often than not) because the roots also become corky and generally fail the tree. I had this thought the other day, why Nishiki are generally grafted and not air layered, and that was the answer I came up with. Never have owned one and don't know much behind air layering pine. That being said, I'd like to see how this turns out. It would be nice to see some good looking roots on a Nishiki every once in a while.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

I was under the impression that Nishiki were grafted (more often than not) because the roots also become corky and generally fail the tree. I had this thought the other day, why Nishiki are generally grafted and not air layered, and that was the answer I came up with. Never have owned one and don't know much behind air layering pine. That being said, I'd like to see how this turns out. It would be nice to see some good looking roots on a Nishiki every once in a while.

They are grafted as a means of cultivar propagation, since their seed will not assuredly be nishiki. Corkers are not necessarily weaker or stronger on their own roots, but grafting onto JPB rootstock is the surest way to propagate specific cultivars. Corky roots won't fail the tree, but sometimes grafts fail at the union because growth rates vary from scion to stock.

 

[Cmanz]

Time for more nishiki air layers. I did a few this morning on a Katsuga, Kyokko, and Hachi Gen. I was successful on 3 out of 4 last season so I'm trying the same method this year.

Here are a few pics of the work on my Hachi Gen
Pic 1 is the trees section prior to any work.
Pic 2 is the missing ring of bark with a few wraps of wire and a paste of 3% IBA talc.
Pic 3 shows the finished product. I use sphagnum moss in a bag warped in cling wrap till it forms a tight ball. I found that all my air layers used to fail if the moss was not compressed tightly against the air layer sight. This also keeps the moss from getting soggy. Once everything is wrapped up tight I put a piece of foil around to keep light out. I'm not sure that the foil is necessary but I don't think it hurts any thing.
Pic 4 is just a chop that I did 15 months ago on this Hachi Gen. The trunk section at the chop point was an inch and a half. Just thought it was interesting to show how quickly JBP can heal. I'm hoping that it closes all the way this year.

Cheers