Japonicus' Japanese White Pine

Japonicus

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,096
Reaction score
8,226
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
Today i repotted my JWP.
I missed the window last year, then all my conifers became infected with some disease. Percolation was rather restricted, so before it gets any worse, i dove in and spent 3.5 hrs repotting.

Here it is in the same oval mica pot its been in for IDK how long. The old front now the back, is less infected with what I'm calling needle cast?
20230328_151558.jpg20230328_151604.jpg20230328_151615.jpg

Then out of the pot
20230328_152508.jpg
20230328_152537.jpg20230328_152826.jpg20230328_152905.jpg

Then i sliced the bottom off...
 

Japonicus

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,096
Reaction score
8,226
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
Yesterday was overcast with good filtred Sunlight with clearing about 5pm.
I felt comfortable leaving it out exposed all day with UV index at 2-3.
Candles continue to elongate.
20230409_115441.jpg20230409_115514.jpg20230409_115707.jpg
Coming up on the 2 week mark with full Sun all day it's going back to the N side of the house till evening. Was forcastrd to be in the upper 30s last night, was 28 here. Oops 😬
 

mrcasey

Mame
Messages
242
Reaction score
191
Location
WV
USDA Zone
6
One of the things that makes this thread significant and remarkable to me is the fact that you don't use Akadama/Pumice/Lava. The mycorrhiza in that root ball is serious.
 

Japonicus

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,096
Reaction score
8,226
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
One of the things that makes this thread significant and remarkable to me is the fact that you don't use Akadama/Pumice/Lava. The mycorrhiza in that root ball is serious.
Well i just switched back to 1:1:1
for this potting.
This thread is young and i never thought to include the change up.
I probably mentioned it in the "What did you do today" thread.

Yes for about 4 years i refused to use akadama due to a blend i got from a highly reputable nursery. Then i started hearing folks here with similar issues.
After visiting Adairs garden, the gears started turning back in the 1:1:1 blend direction with no pine or fir bark. It's time to refine the roots. Way past time maybe, but I would not hesitste to ho back to the blend I've been using since the switch. I'm testing the waters again. Been very satisfied omitting the akadama and adding Monto clay as 1 in a 4 rayio and blending fir and pine bark blended as 1 component
(1:1:1:1).
 

mrcasey

Mame
Messages
242
Reaction score
191
Location
WV
USDA Zone
6
Forgive me, as I'm in the bottom of a pint of vodka, but what ratios are you using?
 

Japonicus

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,096
Reaction score
8,226
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
[ see link below to see a couple of Adairs pines as well as his Zelkova that was in the Nationals]
The mycorrhiza in that root ball is serious.
That's one reason I used the bark in my mix, but also to help with water retention.
I think there's an element in the pine bark
(which breaks down faster than fir bark and why I include the fir bark to delay total bark break down
all at one time) that makes an ideal host for the fungi.
I also incorporate supplemental mycorrhizae basically anywhere roots were cut.
I saved out a bunch of the host fungi from the old roots and ground it up by hand wearing a mask,
and chop sticked that in with the new soil.
Then I follow up with waterings with K-L-N liquid rooting hormone thereafter for a month or so.

5 Years before, and back, I used the Boon mix, but I think that nursery I bought the 5 gallon buckets from
also used pine bark in their professional mix. I loved it, it did great!
(Oh I remember, it was from Bonsai Monk never a problem. I used their Master series soil
then one day they stopped selling on line. That's when I switched to that reputable nursery
where I got a bad batch)

Then one bucket was nasty with soft akadama
and the smell of cooped up mildew sprung with pungency hitting you in the face,
mouth and lungs in an instant when you opened the bucket..
The nursery refused to make it right, so I omitted it from future use, substituting the Monto clay in.
Their akadama simply smeared like little mud balls when you picked one up and gently squeezed it.
End of using akadama for me then.

Everything else remained the same I guess, except I used 2 different barks in my personal mix, but still
1:1:1:1 Lava/Pumice/Monto clay/ Bark. That is what was in the mix I last used on this tree, buying my components
strictly from Bonsaijack.com...it works.
I should have given history on this tree.
I am impressed that you remembered that I wasn't using Boon mix anymore :) It's back for now for refining roots.
In this thread Adair critiqued it at my 1st and only workshop about 18 months ago.
After seeing his personal collection, I decided it was time to give it a try again.
 

Frozentreehugger

Masterpiece
Messages
2,160
Reaction score
2,533
Location
Ottawa Ontario Canada
USDA Zone
4
Don’t know how I missed this thread . I really like your tree . And you have done some very nice work . As you know I’m still on my get a JWP journey . Just curious what is the origin of this tree . Has a very nice base . I don’t see a graft I’m very jealous 😂😂😎😎
 

Japonicus

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,096
Reaction score
8,226
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
Don’t know how I missed this thread . I really like your tree . And you have done some very nice work . As you know I’m still on my get a JWP journey . Just curious what is the origin of this tree . Has a very nice base . I don’t see a graft I’m very jealous 😂😂😎😎
Thank you @Frozentreehugger
I purchased this tree on eBay, I believe in 2005.
Unfortunately my computer says the file was created December 31, 1969 LOL!
But goes onto say it was last modified August, 27th 2005.
WhitePine1.jpg WhitePine1a.jpg
Now you can hone in on the graft to JBP root stock.
DSC_4181.JPG
This was October 3, 2021 in a PM with Adair (I miss that rascal).
At my 1st and only workshop a little over a year ago, he counted the years he thought it may be
but was stumbling around a bit with assumption, so I really don't know.
We do know that JWP doesn't bark up that high for quite some time though.
Might I say 40 yrs old? IDK...but it is looking much better than last Fall for sure.
I will post a picture of it tomorrow. I'm still 2 stepping it with high wind gust expectations, post repotting.
 

Frozentreehugger

Masterpiece
Messages
2,160
Reaction score
2,533
Location
Ottawa Ontario Canada
USDA Zone
4
For me this tree shows. What can be done with a grafted tree . So many say a grafted tree will never look good and the graft will always be visible and or get worse . Now granted it did not have a ugly graft to begin with . But with time and the obvious care you have put into it . What I see is a very nice bonsai . The lower trunk looks very nice . Grafted or not . And it’s great proof that grafted trees get better with age . Great inspiration thanks
 

Japonicus

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,096
Reaction score
8,226
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
So many say a grafted tree will never look good and the graft will always be visible and or get worse .
Thanks for the kind words, but this tree would have looked amazing in the hands of someone
who was an accomplished artist. Adair in his critiquing located the front for me, and recommended
jinning off the two lower "trees". He consulted with someone else, who agreed, the two bottom branches
were more like trees. So I started with ONE 1st. Juvenile a jin as it is, I will be shortening it over time.
It needs cleaning up I know.

The graft getting worse over time cases, are dependent upon how competitive the 2 are with each other
(growth rates). If only I knew how to graft. I have a 15 foot tall JWP in my front yard with good characteristics.

Today I spent a bit of time cutting some under needles away, removing dead needles, and assessing Fall work.
I didn't do much in the top as I had to bring my operation indoors with rain. Where I work indoors has poor lighting.DSC_0036.JPG
At the bottom of this upwards growing shoot is a back bud that has opened and needles are beginning to separate.
This is typical Fall work, but I wanted to get light into this area on a bottom branch, so it can strengthen and give energy
rather than take energy, and one less thing I have to wire this Fall, + it will help the silhouette, minuscule as it is.
DSC_0039.JPG

DSC_0044.JPG
DSC_0046.JPG

There's no wire on the tree except where I glued some bark back on for a few hours.
That may've been a bad idea, as underneath it, the trunk already had bark. So this bark was shedding.

DSC_0050.JPG
I have no plans for the bar branch. It is what it is. It would take a much better practitioner than myself to fill the void.
Let me know if these pictures post too big, and I will try to insert thumbnails. The DSLR I used does make bigger full images.
 

Japonicus

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,096
Reaction score
8,226
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
Quick update. Tree was repotted 3/28 this year. Began fertilizing this Summer, probably late June/July.
Did a little mapping out of the tree about 10 days ago planning on select branches to wire with little pruning.
Today, I did one jin removing a secondary fork to make room for branches on either side.
Some other minor pruning, and wired most of the branches that needed to come back down.
DSC_0268.JPGDSC_0270.JPGDSC_0273.JPGDSC_0274.JPGDSC_0277.JPGDSC_0279.JPGDSC_0282.JPGDSC_0275.JPGDSC_0276.JPG
 

Japonicus

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,096
Reaction score
8,226
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
@Ruddigger after watching Gerald Rainville work on the shimpaku at the Nationals and his mention of shari to the soil line shortening the life of a tree, I'm now wondering if the moss and dirt between the roots above ground is killing my tree? I'm of the mind now that it is like tooth decay.
20230927_122939.jpg
So today I started excavating the moss and soil out of the overlapping roots that surround the base. Is this tree in danger of the base rotting into health?
20230927_120639.jpg

20230927_120737.jpg
 

Ruddigger

Omono
Messages
1,032
Reaction score
4,354
Location
Montclair, Ca
USDA Zone
10a
Its a good idea to clean the moss off the trunk and exposed roots, for sure. It’ll destroy the bark eventually. You can brush on some vinegar to kill it if you want.

The tree is looking great!
 

Japonicus

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
5,096
Reaction score
8,226
Location
Western West Virginia AHS heat zone 6
USDA Zone
6b
Its a good idea to clean the moss off the trunk and exposed roots, for sure. It’ll destroy the bark eventually. You can brush on some vinegar to kill it if you want.

The tree is looking great!
Thanks, I try to keep the moss at bay. It's very free roaming here.
However the dirt I'm finding above the soil line is concerning. Perhaps it's just broken down moss/bark into dirt. IDK. But when I dug out the central part of the root mass into the shin while repotting this year, apparently this was field grown before I got it, and was not properly cleaned.
 

Deep Sea Diver

Masterpiece
Messages
4,547
Reaction score
9,547
Location
Bothell, WA
USDA Zone
8b
Great progression! Looks like next repot these areas will get some focused attention.

Mostly we have a love - sorta distaste relationship with moss. Been experimenting with moss on and off the lower bark for a couple years now. Looking at the benefits vs negatives of moss on roots and trunks.

Note these observations apply to this area only. Louisiana, another moss Capital in the US, might experience entirely different scenarios.

At this point it seems it‘s a plus and minus situation.

If left to stay on the trunk perpetually, the moss will, in fact degrade the bark slowly over time and can create an indent lower down..

If removed in the fall… and when taken out of storage.

… and left to grow and stay on the roots during the growing season, moss seems to foster increased expansion. (Increased surface moisture being taken in?)

… and left to grow and stay on the lower trunk during the growing season - no major impact appears to occur.

These observations need a few more years to fully develop.

cheers
DSD sends
 
Top Bottom