Good/best phosphorous (and/or potassium) sources?

I used it purposely on my mugo in spring as a prevent for needle cast.
It seems to have worked well.

I sprayed everything else a bit too but not for any purpose.

If someone could prevent spray bottles from fucking up after 2 squirts....
I'd use it more Probly...
That has determined my use more than anything!

Sorce
Thanks! And yeah the stuff is a nightmare in spray bottles, if you've got any tips I'd love to hear them! I mix it in the spray-bottle, use it, then throw the spray bottle away!
 
Thanks! And yeah the stuff is a nightmare in spray bottles, if you've got any tips I'd love to hear them! I mix it in the spray-bottle, use it, then throw the spray bottle away!

@Bonsai Nut posted the sprayer he uses....
I'm saving up!

Sorce
 
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I used it purposely on my mugo in spring as a prevent for needle cast.
It seems to have worked well.

I sprayed everything else a bit too but not for any purpose.

If someone could prevent spray bottles from fucking up after 2 squirts....
I'd use it more Probly...
That has determined my use more than anything!

Sorce


Spraying neem oil one time in the spring will do nothing to prevent needle cast. You need to learn the epidemiology of it.

Needle cast infects needles almost one full year before you even see it on the tree. So your need to spray antifungal the summer before. It lies in the needle all winter then manifests itself the following spring if conditions are right
 
Spraying neem oil one time in the spring will do nothing to prevent needle cast. You need to learn the epidemiology of it.

Needle cast infects needles almost one full year before you even see it on the tree. So your need to spray antifungal the summer before. It lies in the needle all winter then manifests itself the following spring if conditions are right

Ok!

By spring I didn't have many old needles.

It does prevent it from attacking the new growth yes?

Sorce
 
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Spraying neem oil one time in the spring will do nothing to prevent needle cast. You need to learn the epidemiology of it.

Needle cast infects needles almost one full year before you even see it on the tree. So your need to spray antifungal the summer before. It lies in the needle all winter then manifests itself the following spring if conditions are right
Though symptoms of the infection usually show up the following year after exposure, needle cast can and does affect current year growth... my JRP was hit hard by it last year, and started by killing all the new needles on several branches.
 
Though symptoms of the infection usually show up the following year after exposure, needle cast can and does affect current year growth... my JRP was hit hard by it last year, and started by killing all the new needles on several branches.


Thanks for the additional info
Did the tree overcome it?
 
Thanks! And yeah the stuff is a nightmare in spray bottles, if you've got any tips I'd love to hear them!

I use a lot of different things purchased in concentrate. The best spray bottle I find to be the least expensive... Dollar General sells them in a 3 pack. They are 1 quart and have real nice measure markings. Just make sure you look at the see through color top and that there is a spring in them. These are not all but what's handy atm - some are 5 years old - I store them inside a storage bin indoors for the winter next to another with the concentrates -

IMG_1376.JPG

Grimmy
 
It's recovering, but it lost several important branches, and set it back at least a few years.

Sorry Dave. I hate hearing this. I love that red pine of yours, certainly a favorite. Bonsai can really be deflating at times.
 
Thanks for any suggestions on what to pursue here

Use this 20-20-20, it has micronutrients in it already for everything but Nitrogen Fixing plants. Most places have it and I get a 4 pound bucket for 19.99USD at Agway but it can be found for less.

Jacks Classic.jpg

If you have a serious need for zero nitrogen, this is the go to -

Bloom Blaster 20g.jpg

I only "buff" the substrate on pit fruits and plants like Azalea that like an acidic home. I mix 2 tablespoons in a empty one gallon water bottle and water them three times a year with it. Agway 1lb @ 8.99.

Bonide Sulfur.jpg

As others suggested just use up what you have in the landscape or garden and don't try to be a chemist :p Simple does work for the record. You can also use the 20-20-20 in your landscape when the other is used up...

Grimmy
 
Sorry Dave. I hate hearing this. I love that red pine of yours, certainly a favorite. Bonsai can really be deflating at times.
Ah, life goes on. At least the tree is alive and recovering. It'll look a bit different when it's restyled but not much so... fingers crossed.
 
I use a lot of different things purchased in concentrate. The best spray bottle I find to be the least expensive... Dollar General sells them in a 3 pack. They are 1 quart and have real nice measure markings. Just make sure you look at the see through color top and that there is a spring in them. These are not all but what's handy atm - some are 5 years old - I store them inside a storage bin indoors for the winter next to another with the concentrates -


Grimmy
That's hilarious that's *exactly* what I use!! My local Dollar General became a Dollar Tree or Family Dollar but they still have them, now they're singles for $1 so I treat them as quite disposable!!
 
Use this 20-20-20, it has micronutrients in it already for everything but Nitrogen Fixing plants. Most places have it and I get a 4 pound bucket for 19.99USD at Agway but it can be found for less.

View attachment 159009

If you have a serious need for zero nitrogen, this is the go to -

View attachment 159010

I only "buff" the substrate on pit fruits and plants like Azalea that like an acidic home. I mix 2 tablespoons in a empty one gallon water bottle and water them three times a year with it. Agway 1lb @ 8.99.

View attachment 159011

As others suggested just use up what you have in the landscape or garden and don't try to be a chemist :p Simple does work for the record. You can also use the 20-20-20 in your landscape when the other is used up...

Grimmy
Great stuff, thanks!! Re 'buffing', you're using straight sulfur for that, something I only recently learned was used for that purpose (wasn't sure what I'd thought *was* used, I figure lime for increasing pH but had no idea for decreasing), what other things besides sulfur are good for decreasing pH/acidifying? Am happy my micronutrient blend has some sulfur in it!!

(and re the 'old stuff' yes I've got more than enough in-ground landscape and specimen plants that it'll be used well :D
 
Am happy my micronutrient blend has some sulfur in it!!

Funny and ok. The reason I posted my three dose a year of Sulfur Water is for a few reasons which I will try to explain -

1) It does decrease or lower acidity in acidic loving plants.
2) Substrates that claim they do take YEARS to break down enough to be effective - I don't give a good shit what they claim.
3) Doing as I said with a soil watering of Sulfur has additional benefits such as breaking the cycle of Cedar Rust.
4) Keep in mind I use it at the soil - it allows me to NOT spray any chemicals and enhances growing overall.

This will most likely be contested by a LOT of members here but those that have been to my place for workshops or visits will attest to the value in the North East ;)

Grimmy
 
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Funny and ok. The reason I posted my three dose a year of Sulfur Water is for a few reasons which I will try to explain -

1) It does decrease or lower acidity in acidic loving plants.
2) Substrates that claim they do take YEARS to break down enough to be effective - I don't give a good shit what they claim.
3) Doing as I said with a soil watering of Sulfur has additional benefits such as breaking the cycle of Cedar Rust.
4) Keep in mind I use it at the soil - it allows me to NOT spray any chemicals and enhances growing overall.

This will most likely be contested by a LOT of members here but those that have been to my place for workshops or visits will attest to the value in the North East ;)

Grimmy
Oh I wasn't trying to make a joke I legitimately thought the sulfur in my mineral thing would help (by your thinking I was speaking in-jest I'm guessing the sulfur content in my minerals is of such low % to be useful for pH purposes!)

1 - You say 'decrease/lower acidity' surely you mean pH?

2 - how does substrate break-down come into play here?

3 - I don't have any cedars, though I imagine it's useful for other specie?

4 - I'm confused why you clarified that, is it common that people try application via foliar-feeding?
 
1) yes...
2) it is already sulfur and does not need to breakdown.
3) I mentioned I use it watered in to a few types of plants, I can be used on many - for fruits I noticed it breaks the Cedar Rust Cycle after one season of treatment. There are a few types one of which can affect a lot of plants - this article explains it pretty nicely - http://www.missouribotanicalgarden....problems/diseases/rusts/cedar-apple-rust.aspx.
4) I used to, as most do, Spray a variety of chemicals on some plants in an effort to control Cedar Rust. By watering in Sulfur here I no longer must use the other sprays. Sulfur as the type I pictured and use is actually sold for use as a powdered application(foliar) for other plants and problems. I use it in the soil mixed with water and that particular type is so fine it is easy to mix.

Grimmy
 
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Hydroponic shops sell all kind of low/no nitrogen fertilizers, mostly 2 part ones. The "Grow" is high N, lower P-K, and the "Bloom" is low N and higher P-K.
Use the Grow early in the year and the bloom in the fall. That reminds me, I gotta run and get some more, I used the last of it yesterday!
 
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1) yes...
2) it is already sulfur and does not need to breakdown.
3) I mentioned I use it watered in to a few types of plants, I can be used on many - for fruits I noticed it breaks the Cedar Rust Cycle after one season of treatment. There are a few types one of which can affect a lot of plants - this article explains it pretty nicely - http://www.missouribotanicalgarden....problems/diseases/rusts/cedar-apple-rust.aspx.
4) I used to, as most do, Spray a variety of chemicals on some plants in an effort to control Cedar Rust. By watering in Sulfur here I no longer must use the other sprays. Sulfur as the type I pictured and use is actually sold for use as a powdered application(foliar) for other plants and problems. I use it in the soil mixed with water and that particular type is so fine it is easy to mix.

Grimmy
Good stuff, thank you!! Had never known the name but I've got a bad case of that cedar rust (or something incredibly similar) on my grape-vine 'bonsai' (lol yes I've bonsai'd a grape vine ;P ), in fact it's really savaging the thing so that's very good to know (didn't really care enough about that specimen to look into it)

That formula looks awesome am going to keep my eyes open for something similar as most of my specimen want more iron, more acidity, so it's a great formulation for me!
 
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