CLOSING WOUNDS

I tried this on a Chinese elm for the first time this past spring. I forgot to take pictures. I suspect it is too early to peak.
 
So do you start covering the entire cut or do you do the border to avoid wood rotting

Covering the entire thing is not necessary as the two part epoxy is impervious to the elements. The live edge is covered to promote faster healing and not to keep it from rotting which would never happen since it is alive.
 
Covering the entire thing is not necessary as the two part epoxy is impervious to the elements. The live edge is covered to promote faster healing and not to keep it from rotting which would never happen since it is alive.
I tried to read the entire thread , maybe I missed , the callusing over aspect with paste/epoxy to fill, does that happen over time once the edges of the wound are cut to expose cambium ? Or could you re-cut the edges of the callus to reinvigorate that callus over process over time each year till it’s closed.
 
I tried to read the entire thread , maybe I missed , the callusing over aspect with paste/epoxy to fill, does that happen over time once the edges of the wound are cut to expose cambium ? Or could you re-cut the edges of the callus to reinvigorate that callus over process over time each year till it’s closed.

Yes. The main take away from the thread is that callousing will ONLY happen over a hard, stable surface. If the wood is rotted the callousing will not progress or if it does at all it will do so extremely slowly and not properly. I recut the edge of the callous once a year in the spring. Usually this is enough to get it rolling for the rest of the season.
 
Yes. The main take away from the thread is that callousing will ONLY happen over a hard, stable surface. If the wood is rotted the callousing will not progress or if it does at all it will do so extremely slowly and not properly. I recut the edge of the callous once a year in the spring. Usually this is enough to get it rolling for the rest of the season.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise
 
Just to add to the conversation. One of my tridents had a large wound on the trunk in which the wood had rotted away. I used an Oatey stick (a material just like Kwik Wood) to provide a stable substrate for the callous tissue to roll over. Here are the results.

November 2018
5F670D71-1736-49D0-869D-71573B35B1D3.jpeg

Today
4EF5CA60-5CA4-452A-825D-3EFFD56F9998.jpeg

A couple of additional things I’ve done:
  1. Developed apical sacrifice branches that I’ve let run wild (they’ll grow 15’ or more in one growing season here)
  2. Grafted branches in the callous tissue around the wound
  3. Scarred the cambium seasonally

I’m not growing a sacrifice this year, but I think it should be more or less healed over in two more seasons or so. Very effective.

s
 
Just to add to the conversation. One of my tridents had a large wound on the trunk in which the wood had rotted away. I used an Oatey stick (a material just like Kwik Wood) to provide a stable substrate for the callous tissue to roll over. Here are the results.

November 2018
View attachment 387656

Today
View attachment 387657

A couple of additional things I’ve done:
  1. Developed apical sacrifice branches that I’ve let run wild (they’ll grow 15’ or more in one growing season here)
  2. Grafted branches in the callous tissue around the wound
  3. Scarred the cambium seasonally

I’m not growing a sacrifice this year, but I think it should be more or less healed over in two more seasons or so. Very effective.

s
Interesting, what about slanted vs. parallel cuts for building taper. This is a collected crab apple , I carved the horizontal cut since it died back since spring collection. Would the callus rolll over from the top? Or would the callus from all around roll over.
 

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Just to add to the conversation. One of my tridents had a large wound on the trunk in which the wood had rotted away. I used an Oatey stick (a material just like Kwik Wood) to provide a stable substrate for the callous tissue to roll over. Here are the results.

November 2018
View attachment 387656

Today
View attachment 387657

A couple of additional things I’ve done:
  1. Developed apical sacrifice branches that I’ve let run wild (they’ll grow 15’ or more in one growing season here)
  2. Grafted branches in the callous tissue around the wound
  3. Scarred the cambium seasonally

I’m not growing a sacrifice this year, but I think it should be more or less healed over in two more seasons or so. Very effective.

s
@markyscott is that left branch one your grafted across the callous? Do you just approach graft it onto the callous?
 
Interesting, what about slanted vs. parallel cuts for building taper. This is a collected crab apple , I carved the horizontal cut since it died back since spring collection. Would the callus rolll over from the top? Or would the callus from all around roll over.
Not familiar with crab apples, but with many species you need growth above the wound for it to callous properly. You may want to wait and see where it dies back to and then carve it appropriately to close the wound if that’s your goal.

- S
 
In Japan those lights are in fact blue, while in most countries its green. I think that Bjorn was saying that in old Japanese language the work "ao" meant both blue and green. After all he's college degree is in Japanese language.
Technically they're green, but about as close to blue as possible while still conforming to international standards. I never really noticed them being blue while I was there, but maybe I just didn't pay enough attention.
 
Not familiar with crab apples, but with many species you need growth above the wound for it to callous properly. You may want to wait and see where it dies back to and then carve it appropriately to close the wound if that’s your goal.

- S
I did carve back yesterdaya
 
hey guys
just wanted to throw in something different...
these are baobabs closing massive cuts - baobabs heal from the inside out-
instead of rolling from the outside in...20210724_075401.jpg20210724_075245.jpg20210724_075346.jpg
 
Yes. The main take away from the thread is that callousing will ONLY happen over a hard, stable surface. If the wood is rotted the callousing will not progress or if it does at all it will do so extremely slowly and not properly. I recut the edge of the callous once a year in the spring. Usually this is enough to get it rolling for the rest of the season.

Thanks for posting this Sergio, this technique helped keep the callus rolling on a stubborn trident wound of mine! The hollow was rotted out, so I had to use epoxy to give it something stable to continue rolling on. One more season and it should be all healed up!!!

BEB2DE54-7778-49DE-AC48-4A53B3580DE0.jpegA0E25D9E-089A-4894-9D5A-0AE574FE9904.jpegBA835615-3E67-4E93-9A21-257160834CA5.jpeg
 
Interesting thread. Thought I’d bump it for anyone’s benefit for a new read. Going to try this on a shishigashira in the coming days.
 
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