Winter wash

RoadManDenDron

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I have read the fantastic resources on winter washes but have a question I don't think is covered

Do I still use neem oil on pines and junipers? As an insecticide in autumn.

also I'm not sure I trust my neem oil, it says its pure organic neem but it's dark like brown and liquid all the time where I'm used to yellowish and solid at room temp

The one I have is a beauty product I believe.

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I do have systemic insecticide would this have the same effect?
 
I have read the fantastic resources on winter washes but have a question I don't think is covered

Do I still use neem oil on pines and junipers? As an insecticide in autumn.

also I'm not sure I trust my neem oil, it says its pure organic neem but it's dark like brown and liquid all the time where I'm used to yellowish and solid at room temp

The one I have is a beauty product I believe.

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View attachment 576605

I do have systemic insecticide would this have the same effect?
Not sure if that is ok for plants. This is the one I use...
 

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“ Neem oil is a naturally occurring pesticide found in seeds from the neem tree. It is yellow to brown, has a bitter taste, and a garlic/sulfur smell. It has been used for hundreds of years to control pests and diseases. Components of neem oil can be found in many products today.”

Been oil Fact Sheet, National Pesticide information Center

Be careful of proper dilution for pines. Some conifers don’t like been very much. Insecticidal soap will work well instead.

“ Or, you can use a miticide, but pesticides using an oil for mite suppression (such as neem or all-seasons oil) cannot be used on blue-/gray-hued evergreens as it will remove the wax layer on the foliage giving them their characteristic color.May 11, 2023”


Cheers
DSD sends
 
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The beauty product type is cold pressed and filtered. So the gunk that hardens with hot pressed oil is not there.

I've used neem on conifers without any issues.
 
@Wires_Guy_wires is cold pressed still useable for trees?
Yes it is! But keep in mind that it might turn gunky later when it oxidizes in the bottle.
Cold pressing usually only gets the oils out that are fluid at room temperature. It leaves some, like 30% behind. That 30% comes out, together with room-temp-solids-that-are-now-molten, when hot/heated pressing happens in the second or third round, and because the process is heated, the end product will contain more hardened material once it cools down.
But the active ingredient is equal in both extractions methods, more or less.
 
Thanks guys, apologies for follow up questions!
As a dormant oil, you should use 2-3% strength. If you are concerned about oil gunk, use a surfactant. Make sure you don't use if you are also spraying lime as a dormant spray.

Also be aware of possible species incompatibility. It is not recommended for many conifers including juniper, spruce, cypress, cedar, yew, fir. Don't use on Japanese maple either or sweet maples like red or sugar.
 
As a dormant oil, you should use 2-3% strength. If you are concerned about oil gunk, use a surfactant. Make sure you don't use if you are also spraying lime as a dormant spray.

Also be aware of possible species incompatibility. It is not recommended for many conifers including juniper, spruce, cypress, cedar, yew, fir. Don't use on Japanese maple either or sweet maples like red or sugar.

Thank you!
What about trident?
 
As a dormant oil, you should use 2-3% strength.
Can you clarify what you mean by strength?

I use half a tablespoon on 2L of water, so that's closer to 2-3mL per 2000mL. Closer to 0.1 to 0.15% strength.
Roughly half a teacup per gallon sounds a bit.. Much? Especially without emulsifier.
 
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