Wilt Proof on Bare Japanese Maples

[penumbra]

I was visiting an old friend, Henry Eastwood of Eastwood Maples yesterday and we traded tips back and forth about winter care for maples. After leaf drop he spays all his maples, and everything really, with an anti desiccant. I was a bit surprised about this use of an anti desiccant for use on bare branches but apparently he has been doing this for Many years. I used Wilt Proof many years ago in the landscape business and found it to be very effective for new plantings, and particularly transplants and wondered why I had all but forgotten all about these products. I had also been considering extra protection for my 40+ new satsuki azaleas and thanks to Henry's reminder, I have ordered my anti desiccant.
For those who wonder, these products are polymers made entirely of hydrogen and carbon and are thus very safe to use. It is very commonly used to treat Christmas trees and greens to prevent drying. The only downside I have every noticed is that when sprayed on conifers with blue foliage, the foliage temporarily loses much of its blueness.
It is ordered and I am excited about my reintroduction to this plant care product.
The woolly bears are almost all black this year.

 

[Bnana]

But why? They do not desiccate without it.
I understand for a Christmas tree in a heated living room but for a bonsai under proper conditions I do not see the need.
Or are you growing trees in a climate that's not suitable for them?

 

[penumbra]

But why? They do not desiccate without it.
I understand for a Christmas tree in a heated living room but for a bonsai under proper conditions I do not see the need.
Or are you growing trees in a climate that's not suitable for them?

Desiccation of azaleas and rhododendrons is quite common when it is really cold or windy in winter. The roots freeze, will not take up water and the leaves still need water. An anti desiccant will help this, that's a no brainer. Landscapers and nurseries do this as a matter of course and have a proven track record of decades.
You would not experience this in zone 8, but it is better to know about it than to ignore it.
As to the use of this type of a product on a bare maple, well that is a bit of a surprise to me as well. Certainly I am curious about it but if it is working for a premier grower of Japanese maple for over 50 years, I will go with that. I will eventually find out why .... or I will not. But I don't need to reinvent the wheel.
Of course I have some plants that push the border as do nearly all plant collectors and many bonsai nuts. The fact is that 40 years ago it was zone 5B in my area and now it is a solid zone 7. This does not preclude the possibility of a deep freeze like 5 winters ago when it was minus 14 F for a few days. I have cold frames and hoop tunnels and I am well prepared to winter everything I have, but as I am getting older and slowing down, I will use what is available to me and ere on the side of caution to make life altogether easier. It is not any different than installing irrigation, just another means to assure efficiency.
And thank you for your reply my friend in bonsai. It offered a platform on which to better explain my decision regarding the use of an anti desiccant.

 

[Bnana]

For wintergreen azaleas in a climate that's actually a bit too cold and windy for them I understand. For maple I don't see a benefit.

I've learned that the fact that people have been doing something for 50 years does not indicate that it actually works at all.

 

[penumbra]

For wintergreen azaleas in a climate that's actually a bit too cold and windy for them I understand. For maple I don't see a benefit.

I've learned that the fact that people have been doing something for 50 years does not indicate that it actually works at all.

I agree with this more often than not, especially in the world at large. It has been said that the knowledge of our past advances every time an archeologist dies. And look at medicine, politics, religion, warfare etc.
But having studied plant physiology pretty extensively, I know that thin barks, especially green bark as on young Japanese maples, contribute to the plants conversion of energy and to a lesser extent transpiration.
Extensive damage and even death has been attributed to the use of roundup around young trees because the chlorophyll in the bark doesn't act any differently than the chlorophyll in the leaves except that there is less of it. I am sure this is not the only benefit of an anti desiccant on young trees, but it is good enough for me. My friend Henry didn't just happen to bump into this, but developed the practice over the years by careful observation.
Anyway, the doubt on your half is logical and fortunately you are in a climate where the point is moot.

 

[Bnana]

It might help if you live in at the edge of where a tree species can grow. And frost can dry things quickly so that makes complete sense. But it is good specific trees and climate s. I do not see much possible harm as it is a completely safe compound so in that sense, why not use it?

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

I'm thinking this product might contain some glycerole or something. Glycerole is used in almost every field of cryo-whatever to protect cells from ice crystals. Glycerole can be taken up by plants.
It wouldn't stop dessication, maybe a little, but it could prevent dieback from freezing. It also mixes well with both water as well as carbon-based materials like oils.
If you ever find out what's in it, I'd love to read about it.

 

[penumbra]

I'm thinking this product might contain some glycerole or something. Glycerole is used in almost every field of cryo-whatever to protect cells from ice crystals. Glycerole can be taken up by plants.
It wouldn't stop dessication, maybe a little, but it could prevent dieback from freezing. It also mixes well with both water as well as carbon-based materials like oils.
If you ever find out what's in it, I'd love to read about it.

The info on Wilt Proof said carbon and hydrogen and I know that is vague. The product I ordered is by Bonide and called Wilt Stop. Reviews say they work the same and rates for dilution and application are the same. When I receive the product I will report further on it.