Why not grow all container plants in inorganic bonsai soil?

[Mycin]

I have some conventional gardening experience so learning about modern bonsai soil substrates has been eye-opening to say the least. This has me wondering, could the benefits of bonsai soil be applied to other container plants? In this context I see the benefits of using bonsai soil as being able to water the plant more frequently without overwatering it, thereby providing the roots with fresh air and water more often. If the plant develops a finer root structure in the coarser soil maybe that would be reflected in the foliage, so the end result might be denser, faster growth.

As I see it, the downsides of using an inorganic soil would be that the plants would demand frequent watering and that they wouldn't develop the thicker roots that normally secure them in the traditional potting mix. The frequent watering wont be an issue for me and I dont think most annual plants demand or even develop the thicker taproots so from what I can think of it seems like this idea is feasible.

I'm gonna try it out anyways, gonna throw a couple different flowers and plants in an approximated 75% 8822/pumice and 25% potting mix and see how they do, but any more experienced growers try this out before?

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

There's this thing called hydroponics, it's pretty big. Office plants are usually in inorganic soils, and there's a lot of them globally.
Most herbs and flowers drink more water than our trees, they also collapse faster during dry spells. Organic soils, when treated as organic soils, are perfect for every plant. We bonsaiists however, tend to treat organics as inorganics and that's where things go south. People call organics like potting mixes "bad soil" a lot. I've been growing in organics for over a decade and never thought of it as something that was bad, my plants were doing great. They still are. I don't think there is such a thing as a bad soil, only people who don't know how or refuse to work with it as intended.

Coco coir is purely organic and when used correctly, it has all the benefits a bonsai soil has. I can't use it correctly, I've tried for years but I just can't. But I do know that a non-compacted potting mix can also produce healthy fine root systems and in my case it always outperforms bonsai soils.

One issue with bonsai/inorganic soil in larger containers is gravity; water can adhere to itself and basically draw water out of the top layer. Not long ago, someone opened a thread here and posted data about pot weights and watering. After 4 waterings, the pot weight went down. It was losing water due to watering. Weird, right? The larger the pot, the bigger the effect. To counter this, growers can use a pot-in-a-pot system, always leaving a layer of water on the bottom of the outer container for the soil inside the inner pot to draw from.

Mixing organics and fine inorganics tends to screw up the qualities of both. You'll end up with a muddy layer on the bottom of the container, deprived of oxygen. If you use bark instead of a fine potting mix, which is organic but takes long to break down, you might be able to get more water retention without sacrificing air flow.

When planted directly in bonsai soil as a seed, most plants will in fact produce a huge taproot. I made that mistake all too often. It's the sole reason why I never start seeds in bonsai soil anymore, but in organic mixes instead.

But please give it a go and let us know how it worked out! I'm always interested in these kind of experiments.

Keep in mind that I'm still convinced people should use whatever they're comfortable with. I'm not an advocate for any type of soil, I just want to point out that it's good to know what you're dealing with and how to deal with it. If one knows both those things, there isn't much of a difference between soils actually.

 

[Mycin]

There's this thing called hydroponics, it's pretty big. Office plants are usually in inorganic soils, and there's a lot of them globally.
Most herbs and flowers drink more water than our trees, they also collapse faster during dry spells. Organic soils, when treated as organic soils, are perfect for every plant. We bonsaiists however, tend to treat organics as inorganics and that's where things go south. People call organics like potting mixes "bad soil" a lot. I've been growing in organics for over a decade and never thought of it as something that was bad, my plants were doing great. They still are. I don't think there is such a thing as a bad soil, only people who don't know how or refuse to work with it as intended.

Coco coir is purely organic and when used correctly, it has all the benefits a bonsai soil has. I can't use it correctly, I've tried for years but I just can't. But I do know that a non-compacted potting mix can also produce healthy fine root systems and in my case it always outperforms bonsai soils.

One issue with bonsai/inorganic soil in larger containers is gravity; water can adhere to itself and basically draw water out of the top layer. Not long ago, someone opened a thread here and posted data about pot weights and watering. After 4 waterings, the pot weight went down. It was losing water due to watering. Weird, right? The larger the pot, the bigger the effect. To counter this, growers can use a pot-in-a-pot system, always leaving a layer of water on the bottom of the outer container for the soil inside the inner pot to draw from.

Mixing organics and fine inorganics tends to screw up the qualities of both. You'll end up with a muddy layer on the bottom of the container, deprived of oxygen. If you use bark instead of a fine potting mix, which is organic but takes long to break down, you might be able to get more water retention without sacrificing air flow.

When planted directly in bonsai soil as a seed, most plants will in fact produce a huge taproot. I made that mistake all too often. It's the sole reason why I never start seeds in bonsai soil anymore, but in organic mixes instead.

But please give it a go and let us know how it worked out! I'm always interested in these kind of experiments.

Keep in mind that I'm still convinced people should use whatever they're comfortable with. I'm not an advocate for any type of soil, I just want to point out that it's good to know what you're dealing with and how to deal with it. If one knows both those things, there isn't much of a difference between soils actually.

You're totally right, up until now I've been very satisfied with the results I've had growing flowers & plants with conventional organic soil and Miraclegro. But thanks to this forum I have a TON of new knowledge that I'm itching to use. Half the fun of a hobby is experimentation IMO so let's run this up the flag pole and see what happens.

Ok I'll look for the smallest bark I can find and do 8822/lava/bark for a couple pairs of cheap plants that I can find on sale. I'll slip pot one of each into conventional soil and pot the others into the aforementioned mix so we can have a side-by-side comparison. Pictures incoming

 

[Anthony]

Now using -
3 mm silica based quartz
3 mm crushed red brick
Aged sifted cmpost

in a 1 inch [ 2.5 cm ] deep bonsai pot
Full sun

Watering = 2 passes in the morning
1 pass around 4.30 p.m
If needed [ rainy season modifies watering to less ]

Plants are happy.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[cmeg1]

Beware of ph issues...especially if fert every water.
Soily stuff is a natural ph buffer to stabilize.......rocky stuff ,the water is the soil..........people get away with it when they fert once every week or two because most day of the week they get a good drink of probably a good ph water.........most chemy ferts with plummet ph to very acidic.......if every watering u will have problems.......once or twice a week it is ok.....unless water is bad.......ph 5.8-6.4 or mineral will NOT be available and get deficient and not photosynthesize proper........just my .02 cents

i suspect why people deem slow release ferts like cakes so good as they get alot of water and not ph wacky fertilizer solution every watering

 

[cmeg1]

Not to mention slower growth........when if not deficient has excellent results on photosynthesis and making strong trees full of stored energy and stronger roots........another plus of the slow release option

 

[Clicio]

Now using -
3 mm silica based quartz
3 mm crushed red brick
Aged sifted cmpost
Plants are happy.

I've been using crushed brick with great success in our tropical weather, @Anthony

 

[czaczaja]

Beware of ph issues...especially if fert every water.
Soily stuff is a natural ph buffer to stabilize.......rocky stuff ,the water is the soil..........people get away with it when they fert once every week or two because most day of the week they get a good drink of probably a good ph water.........most chemy ferts with plummet ph to very acidic.......if every watering u will have problems.......once or twice a week it is ok.....unless water is bad.......ph 5.8-6.4 or mineral will NOT be available and get deficient and not photosynthesize proper........just my .02 cents

i suspect why people deem slow release ferts like cakes so good as they get alot of water and not ph wacky fertilizer solution every watering

What about diluting the fertilizer? I guess it would serve the same function as a slow release fert cake? I have recently become a fan of using the horticultural grit as potting medium for its draining properties. I prefer mixing the liquid fertilizer in with water over using fertilizer granules but always keen to hear peoples opinions.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

What about diluting the fertilizer? I guess it would serve the same function as a slow release fert cake? I have recently become a fan of using the horticultural grit as potting medium for its draining properties. I prefer mixing the liquid fertilizer in with water over using fertilizer granules but always keen to hear peoples opinions.

Potting media and Fertilizer, two intimately linked topics, that often devolve into "Soil Wars" due to the complexities that can get involved.

But a quick note, what I am currently doing for fertilizer I have moved to Fish Lysate, and Liquid Kelp as my preferred fertilizer. I also add to my water a little humic acid and fulvic acid at least a couple times a month. All liquids, and between the 4 items most everything the plants need is provided.

There are many ways to get the nutrients the plants need to the plants. Pick the way that works for you.