WHY did I end up with a SCOTS pine?

Adair M

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Scots pines will backbud. One of the ways is to wire the branches. This process usually exposes the branches to the sun. The sun can stimulate dormant buds.
 
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Dirk, I have been practicing different development techniques on my Scots and your candle cutting schedule seems to be most similar to what is working for me. but, I don't seem to be getting back budding on older wood where there are no needles... I can get back budding on branch tips and a little further back where needles are still attached but not where needles have been removed or fallen off... is this normal? I really want back budding in those areas, is it possible?

thanks, Scots pine techniques have been hard to hammer down, lots of conflicting information.
@Aaronkslater
It stays a pine so on really old wood no backbudding will occur and grafting might be necessary, don't expect wonders. For maximizing backbudding you need a few things. (1) A strong growing tree with plenty of fertilizer. (2) for this you need a good growing medium, so watering and fertilization is optimal. (3) Exposure to the sun and air of the area where you want backbudding (wiring and fan the secondary branches in a flat plain will expose most of the branches).
Once you have everything set up backbudding will occur automatically in the area you describe (1 to 3 years old). Most of the time after 1 or 2 years this should be happening with a collected tree. From that time you start cutting back with scissors AFTER needles are hardened. The bigger the green mass you prune back, the more backbudding you might expect. To maximize the effect you let the tree get full power until late spring (june / july) before pruning back. When growth is not super fast or big you can not expect a lot of backbudding (tree needs green to generate food and needs more than it needs before the pine will start to "invest" in backbudding). If that's the case it is often better to skip pruning for a year (except the super strong ones) like mention in "B1a" in the post you quoted. You will prune two years back a year later so keep in mind to keep some needles in place for that purpose.
There are always different ways of attaining a goal but this is what i was learned and how i understand it. Getting backbudding on 10 years old wood should be possible, but it might take a few years and you are never sure on what exact spot it might be. Leaving some old needles on critical places might do the trick but don't overdo this to avoid shading the older wood. Once the tree slows down and gets more and more refined, backbudding will get harder. I hope it makes a little bit sense. The video's of Ryan Neil about pine care translated the knowledge i was teached by my master. It is a somewhat simplified version of the real life and you have to adapt your technique to your climate, tree and goals.
 

Mike Corazzi

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Well, the tree is budding strongly this year.
A miracle considering the mistreatment I have given it.
We have a small bonsai work group that meets on Wednesdays and I've discussed this with our sensei/club guy/grower/friend and we're gonna take a look at the soil in early April.
One of the things I did was punch some pits into the pure lava media and added some soil/aka/pumice into them to provide...SOME.... source of moisture whereas it has managed to hang on without ANY .....except the regular watering..
Which...of course.... ran right through.

The thinning of buds last year was a GOOD thing.
There are from itty bitty to ...big... shoots right now.

I have managed to do EVERYTHING wrong to this pore old tree.
And yet.... it appears that this year will be a rebirth. :)
 
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Good to hear it's alive. Must love Scots pines. Here akadama and pumice 50 /50. Pure pumice or lava might be to much work to water, even here. Looking forward to see the progress and the repot.
 

Mike Corazzi

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Me too.
Trepidation is running amok in anticipation.
From all indications, this shrub is going to stand up and lick my face this year.

Welll..... stay alive and turn green, anyhow. ;)
 

Mike Corazzi

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One of the things I plan to do is remove it from one of my FAULTY assumptions of ....FULL SUN REQUIRED.... and it will be getting sun from 8-1 and then partial shade from 1 PM til dark.
My biggest moronic assumption was to treat it like it would....LIKE... the central valley of CA.

Sylvester no likee 112 degree days. :eek:

Nope.
 
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