Which maple trunk line would you choose?

[Hack Yeah!]

I need to move forward with a trunk line/ front of this tree soon. I somewhat developed the branching for the shorter side but it has an old branch scar down low on the trunk. Then there's the taller side that has a nice curve going for a slightly taller tree and would have the blemish free trunk. Which would you choose? It was created from an airlayer, so the nebari has a nice radial flare all around.

 

[BrianBay9]

I would use the curvy trunk (left in last pic), and change the planting angle - tilt maybe 30 degrees to the right?

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

I would use the curvy trunk (left in last pic), and change the planting angle - tilt maybe 30 degrees to the right?

Ditto

 

[Tieball]

That curvy left trunk is interesting, but I don’t think it’s fabulous, however, I’m wondering it there are any points on that curvy left for lower branch development. It seems to curve and then rocket straight up.

 

[Hack Yeah!]

That curvy left trunk is interesting, but I don’t think it’s fabulous, however, I’m wondering it there are any points on that curvy left for lower branch development. It seems to curve and then rocket straight up.

I just set a layer on that side, so in 6-8 weeks I'll chop it down to somewhere in this area


I had worked down some old stubs this morning. There should be enough internodes to pop for branching.

 

[Shibui]

Both sides will require many years of development to grow a new apex, branches and close scars.
Positives for 1st side is 2 existing branches are well spaced and apex is started. By the time the new apex and branches have developed the lower scar will probably be closed.
Better trunk movement in side 2 but no scar. Also no branches yet and no apex so still a long way to go on that side.

Neither of the fronts are markedly better IMHO. Go with whichever you like or flip a coin but it won't get anywhere until you make a start.

 

[Hack Yeah!]

Moving forward with the curvy side.. airlayer separated, notch cut on the side to be eliminated later this season. I also left it a little taller to gain some strength before final reduction

 

[Hack Yeah!]

Thanks for the feedback so far. This one will be getting repotted soon. So thinking about potential potting angles I'm considering something like below, it offers more of a scar free front. I'll thread one branch this year and another lower/ 1st branch next year if nothing pops closer. Any other ideas appreciated!

 

[clem]

Thanks for the feedback so far. This one will be getting repotted soon. So thinking about potential potting angles I'm considering something like below, it offers more of a scar free front. I'll thread one branch this year and another lower/ 1st branch next year if nothing pops closer. Any other ideas appreciated!

Hello, i would keep the potting angle so that the nebari is well placed/balanced (horizontal roots). If you lean it to one side or another, the small defects of your trunk (= the 1rst part of the trunk is straight/stiff and lack of taper) won't disapear and you'll risk to alter the nebari of your tree (crooked nebari). So for me, the planting angle depends on the nebari first. You can improve trunk defects with thread grafts (to improve the tapper, to create a 1rst branch on the right and on the left to hide the trunk stiffness) imo

 

[Hack Yeah!]

This tree will need to stay upright as @clem has suggested. The nebari is too far along for much of an angle change. No thread graft as the buds are swelling early and I've got a bud popping close to where I would've placed it anyway. So I cut the planned thread graft back and hopefully a bud will pop at it's base. After the leaves harden I'll carve back the top stub. Easy to choose the back now,

 

[Dav4]

Good start. I have to say you've got quite a few projects (excluding the few you snagged from me ) with very nice root spread and development and this one certainly fits in that group. Nicely done.

 

[pandacular]

Roots look awesome!

No thread graft as the buds are swelling early and I've got a bud popping close to where I would've placed it anyway.

It was suggested to me by a pro to do a thread graft after the first flush hardens by defoliating the scion branch. This was specifically concerning trees with very large buds that otherwise might not fit through a hole, but it is an idea to keep in mind for maples as well. If the tree is growing vigorously, I see no reason why it wouldn’t work.

 

[leatherback]

Important detail I think: Once you have the tree growing, and in the top you get a but of growth on the side-branches, take the leader down to the first node, and create a leader with summer growth, which will have shorter internodes and therefor, more opportunities to grow side-branches.