When/how to use Miracid and miracle grow?

Josephflores960

Sapling
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Location
South Texas
USDA Zone
10a
Hello, I was wondering if I should change between Mira is and miracle grow for my trees. The tree I currently have right now are pines, junipers, azaleas, cypresses, one Japanese maple, and two Chinese elms. What fertilizer should I use for what trees or does it matter? Should I change between the two fertilizers? I use bio gold and some crushed up organic cakes applied on the soil for the organic component but I want to use liquid fertilizer at the same time since it’s now the growing season here in South Texas. Thank you for any feedback!
 
Depending on the type of water you use, you might want to blend in some more miracid at the second half of summer.
My water has a higher pH of around 8. So continuous watering with that pH range will lock up nutrients near the end of summer due to the raise in pH. I try to prevent that by dosing an acidic fertilizer at a 1:2 ratio of my regular stuff after a couple months of tap watering.

If you want to use liquid and organic at the same time, consider dosing the liquid at 1/2 or 1/4th strength because you wouldn't want to cause nutrient burns.

Miracid is mostly used for azaleas, but you can use it for anything else with the notion that it might lower the soil pH in some plant pots a little too much if you overdo it. That in turn causes a flush out of the nutrients your plant might need.

It's about balance, I guess.
 
Depending on the type of water you use, you might want to blend in some more miracid at the second half of summer.
My water has a higher pH of around 8. So continuous watering with that pH range will lock up nutrients near the end of summer due to the raise in pH. I try to prevent that by dosing an acidic fertilizer at a 1:2 ratio of my regular stuff after a couple months of tap watering.

If you want to use liquid and organic at the same time, consider dosing the liquid at 1/2 or 1/4th strength because you wouldn't want to cause nutrient burns.

Miracid is mostly used for azaleas, but you can use it for anything else with the notion that it might lower the soil pH in some plant pots a little too much if you overdo it. That in turn causes a flush out of the nutrients your plant might need.

It's about balance, I guess.
Do you recommend I get a pH tester? Thank you for the advice!
 
Are you on municipal water or well? Most municipalities keep their water basic (8 or so) to reduce potential problems with lead pipes. They should provide you with a report once a year with pH readings. You can assume you're basic and could benefit from some Miracid now and then. On a well? I've got no clue. Better test.
 
Do you recommend I get a pH tester? Thank you for the advice!
A pH strip (litmuss) would be fine, those will cost you about a dollar fiddy per pack of 90 or so strips, and if you're economical by cutting those strips in half they will last you a long time.
Electrical ones are great but they are expensive and need maintenance and calibrations every time you use them.
For the goal of testing your soil pH and your tap water pH, the cheap strips will do fine.
 
Are you on municipal water or well? Most municipalities keep their water basic (8 or so) to reduce potential problems with lead pipes. They should provide you with a report once a year with pH readings. You can assume you're basic and could benefit from some Miracid now and then. On a well? I've got no clue. Better test.
Municipal, I guess using Mira is for my two azaleas would benefit me as I’ve had them for 3 months.
 
A pH strip (litmuss) would be fine, those will cost you about a dollar fiddy per pack of 90 or so strips, and if you're economical by cutting those strips in half they will last you a long time.
Electrical ones are great but they are expensive and need maintenance and calibrations every time you use them.
For the goal of testing your soil pH and your tap water pH, the cheap strips will do fine.
How would I test the soil on a pH paper? Thank you.
 
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