What's wrong with this leaf?

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Hickory Hills, IL.
USDA Zone
5B
#3
My guess would be chlorosis. If the leaf is yellowing from outside in with green veins thats almost definitively chlorosis. Thats some hard water. Damn. Have you tried using a water basin and leaving water sit a few hrs to bring the ph down? You can also use soil amendments for ph. They can take a few weeks to set in.
 
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#4
Have you seen this chart?
View attachment 153112
It's old but still helpful for predicting pH related nutrient deficiency. I have noticed a big improvement in the color of some plants when I drop the pH of my tap water from 7.8 to around 6.0
I was waiting on buffer solution to calibrate the pH meter and it arrived Friday PM, Saturday watered at 6.5 pH on a basil plant. You wouldn't believe me how much of an improvement it's made in 48hrs. I've been growing basil for 20 years and I don't ever remember a basil this green. Looking at my nectar plants I see several that might be suffering the same problem.


My guess would be chlorosis. If the leaf is yellowing from outside in with green veins thats almost definitively chlorosis. Thats some hard water. Damn. Have you tried using a water basin and leaving water sit a few hrs to bring the ph down? You can also use soil amendments for ph. They can take a few weeks to set in.
I will be watering the maples and junipers with 6.5pH starting this am. I'll post updates.
 

Smoke

Imperial Masterpiece
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Location
Fresno, CA
USDA Zone
9
#5
How about a picture of the whole tree and where it sits at noon during the day. I see much greener leaves in shaded portions of the canopy. Tridents can tolerate a lot of sun, but have mechanisims to counter the brite sun.
 
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#6
How about a picture of the whole tree and where it sits at noon during the day. I see much greener leaves in shaded portions of the canopy. Tridents can tolerate a lot of sun, but have mechanisims to counter the brite sun.
i placed it in full dabbled shade after starting this thread. It doesn't seem to be getting better. I don't believe it's over-watered.

The first two pics are recent growth

IMG_0834.JPG IMG_0835.JPG IMG_0836.JPG
 

Smoke

Imperial Masterpiece
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Location
Fresno, CA
USDA Zone
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#9
The brown tips are fungal but not bad at all. Spray with daconil weekly and remove old brown tipped leaves. The rest of the leaf is due to sun and the plants ability to photosynthesize at will. The more shade you keep it in the greener it will be but that comes at a price. More sun and shorter internode but lighter leaf color. You need to find the sweet spot in you yard for maples. Took me years to figure it out. Of course you could always move to Oregon where you can leave them in full sun year round.
 
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Location
Essex, UK, Zone 8
#11
I was waiting on buffer solution to calibrate the pH meter and it arrived Friday PM, Saturday watered at 6.5 pH on a basil plant. You wouldn't believe me how much of an improvement it's made in 48hrs. I've been growing basil for 20 years and I don't ever remember a basil this green. Looking at my nectar plants I see several that might be suffering the same problem.




I will be watering the maples and junipers with 6.5pH starting this am. I'll post updates.
I've always had a leaf problem with my Acer P (maple), and they are watered with tap water. My area is in the highest zone for hard water. Wondering if all my problems are just linked to my tap water....
 
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#12
Spray with daconil weekly
Daconil website says not to use when over 95deg and hot dry winds. We're hitting 100 almost daily now. Do you think I should wait till the temps drop?

Conor, I've been adjusting our water to pH6.5 for two weeks now but with the summer heat these maples are getting beat up pretty bad. Can't really define any improvement, just trying to find a rhythm with correct amount of water and shade.