What to do with field-grown Trident?

[AcerAddict]

I bought this 8-year-old field-grown Trident maple from Green Thumb Bonsai in September 2021 and have done very little to it since then. The picture showing it in the small 3-gallon pot (trident01.jpg) is from the day it arrived, and the other pictures are from today. It's been kept in a 25-gallon nursery pot since 2022. The base of the tree was never that great (see photo), so remedying that has always been part 1 of the long-term design. After years of letting it sit mostly idle, I'm finally ready to do something productive with this tree.

The way I see it, my options are:

A (red line): Ground-layer the base off low on the trunk (which is currently 2" thick) and then make a basic broom-style tree.
B (blue line): Ground-layer the base off high up the trunk just below the fork and make a twin-trunk style tree.
C (yellow lines): Air-layer off the two "forks" (one is 1" thick and the other 1.25") and make two trees with smaller trunks, but more styling options going forward.

Thanks in advance for the thoughts and feedback.

 

[leatherback]

Cut between red and green.
Do a decent repot and work the roots every year for the next 3 years as the new leader develops.

 

[Shibui]

I do not think the twin option will be great. The 2 branches have very little in common, at least from the angle shown. Maybe better from the other side and not exactly front on?

The roots do not appear to be too bad. As @leatherback suggests it will be many years before the branching is good so you have time to work on changing that.

The broom option also does not look great for similar reason to the twin. The 2 main branches have little going for them and huge scars (on this side). It also appears those branches are growing away toward the back in the photos, in which case the other side may make a much better viewing point.

As a single trunk tree I would consider removing the thicker branch to achieve a change of angle and some better taper.

Not sure the layer will achieve much apart from better root system.

There are probably other style options but need to see more of the tree to make any predictions.

 

[bwaynef]

I think you're discounting the flare that's developed down low. I'd chop it low. I like the red line, but as there's a tuft of foliage just above it, I'd probably preserve that. Then as was mentioned, after a few good repots sorting/treating the roots and you'll have the start of an impressive tree.

 

[namnhi]

I see a potential 2 trees out of this one... but that is depend on your timeline. If this is my tree, I will airlayer just above blue line for a twin trunk. Once separate, i will cut back to the yellow line on the right trunk. Make sure you have buds below the chop. The bottom will be a good sumo shohin size. Either options mentioned will take time. Mine will be a season longer.

 

[AcerAddict]

I do not think the twin option will be great. The 2 branches have very little in common, at least from the angle shown. Maybe better from the other side and not exactly front on?

There are probably other style options but need to see more of the tree to make any predictions.

Here's the other side of the main trunk. Cosmetically, it does look better than the previous side I photographed.

 

[AcerAddict]

I think you're discounting the flare that's developed down low. I'd chop it low. I like the red line, but as there's a tuft of foliage just above it, I'd probably preserve that. Then as was mentioned, after a few good repots sorting/treating the roots and you'll have the start of an impressive tree.

I see a potential 2 trees out of this one... but that is depend on your timeline. If this is my tree, I will air layer just above blue line for a twin trunk. Once separate, i will cut back to the yellow line on the right trunk. Make sure you have buds below the chop. The bottom will be a good sumo shohin size. Either options mentioned will take time. Mine will be a season longer.

Considering that I initially bought this tree for the age and trunk thickness, I will definitely keep the current base to use for something.

I like a path forward that takes into account both of your suggestions. First, I'll air layer the top portion (blue line in the revised image here). When that eventually gets removed and put into its own pot, I'll chop the remaining base at the red line, preserving the existing foliage and turning that into a sumo. At that same time, I'll chop the right branch at the yellow line, preserving that foliage, and then proceed with turning the whole top into a twin-trunk.

Since it's already nearing late June, I'll set up the air layer this week. This tree is super vigorous and it doesn't hit dormancy here until early/mid-October with our weather, so I should be good. The root system of this tree is also pretty much the whole diameter of the pot and very thick, so there is plenty of power there to get some more leaves out below the layer prior to the onset of fall.

 

[namnhi]

Considering that I initially bought this tree for the age and trunk thickness, I will definitely keep the current base to use for something.

I like a path forward that takes into account both of your suggestions. First, I'll air layer the top portion (blue line in the revised image here). When that eventually gets removed and put into its own pot, I'll chop the remaining base at the red line, preserving the existing foliage and turning that into a sumo. At that same time, I'll chop the right branch at the yellow line, preserving that foliage, and then proceed with turning the whole top into a twin-trunk.

Since it's already nearing late June, I'll set up the air layer this week. This tree is super vigorous and it doesn't hit dormancy here until early/mid-October with our weather, so I should be good. The root system of this tree is also pretty much the whole diameter of the pot and very thick, so there is plenty of power there to get some more leaves out below the layer prior to the onset of fall.

I like this plan! I would do exactly that.

 

[dbonsaiw]

I don't see any reason to redo the nebari - looks good to me. If it were mine, I'd likely cut below the split and continue from there. How come no votes for just pruning off the left (thicker) part of the split and later cutting at the yellow line?

 

[nimbus1376]

I’ve never tried air layering a trident, but my understanding was that it could be challenging as tridents have a high propensity for bridging across the gap. Does anyone have experience or thoughts regarding this?

 

[namnhi]

I’ve never tried air layering a trident, but my understanding was that it could be challenging as tridents have a high propensity for bridging across the gap. Does anyone have experience or thoughts regarding this?

Not if you cut wide and deep enough. I just separated 5 over the weekend
Thread 'Experimenting air layer Trident Maple and Crabapple at bud break' https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/e...ident-maple-and-crabapple-at-bud-break.63591/

 

[AcerAddict]

I don't see any reason to redo the nebari - looks good to me. If it were mine, I'd likely cut below the split and continue from there. How come no votes for just pruning off the left (thicker) part of the split and later cutting at the yellow line?

I mean, that's totally an option. Given the gentle banana-like bend that would create in the overall design, I could see an end goal of something like this...

 

[leatherback]

I mean, that's totally an option. Given the gentle banana-like bend that would create in the overall design, I could see an end goal of something like this...

that tree is 10 times as tall

 

[AcerAddict]

that tree is 10 times as tall

And? I said earlier I'm in no rush.

 

[bonsai-engineer]

And? I said earlier I'm in no rush.

It may take a few generations — that tree has been in training for the last 129 years.

 

[leatherback]

And? I said earlier I'm in no rush.

That you are comparing apples and oranges. The lean and style of a big tree do not convert to a realistic image in a small tree. The design concepts are very different. Size matters.

 

[dbonsaiw]

Another suggestion