What rooting compound should I use after repotting?

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I'm new to bonsai but have been reading everything I can find on it. My problem is this. Over the course of the past month we have acquired six bonsai, two each of juniper (don't know the variety), two Japanese maple, and two Chinese elms. Acting on what small amount of knowledge I possessed, I repotted all six and would now like to add something to help roots grow and a nebari to form.
 
It doesn’t work that way. If your studying has led you to this point, you need to find better sources or be a better student.
Ride out your mistake with careful watering, keeping trees in some shade, and know timing is everything with bonsai. Repotting is done in spring.
 
I must point out that three of them were in dire straits: for example, one maple was being held in place by a rock that extended to the bottom of the bonsai pot and was the only thing holding the tree in place. Two others were similar. The other three I just did anyway.
 
Hmmm, in general we repot all of these in spring or fall. It's not spring or fall. So I get why you want to give them an extra bump in the right direction.
Rooting compounds do more than just tickle the roots, they also cause the shoots to elongate, meddle with dormancy and straight up cause your plant to have a bad time.
A couple milligrams per liter of NAA or IBA should be fine. Try to aim for the 10-25mg/L for conifers and 1-4mg/L for deciduous. It should activate the rootsystem when used in watering, and it shouldn't mess up the shoots a whole lot.

The best nebari formation and root formation doesn't happen in a small container though. It's something that goes faster in a larger container because the roots get to escape, they thicken, they enlarge. Then we cut them back, let them recover in something intermediate, then repot into a bonsai container.
 
They are rooting compounds, synthetic hormones that either mimic or are identical to natural occurring rooting hormones found in plants. The title of this thread made me think you were looking for those.
Naphtalene acetic acid (NAA) and Indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) are commonly used in horticulture and laboratory settings, as well as in nursery businesses and hobbyistic practices to promote rooting.

But all things said and done.. They should root on their own well enough for survival without any additions. I only use the above mentioned hormones in emergency situations or when taking cuttings or making air layers.
 
The reason why we repot in spring (or secondarily in early fall) is two-fold. First, it allows us to work around the extremes of the seasons. Second, it allows us to time our work for when our trees are most likely to recover based on their seasonal growth patterns. It might have been better to ask advice first than to do something and tell people about it afterwards. I am not judging - we have all done it - but when first starting out the most important rule to learn is patience. If you don't know, stop and ask. Short of your tree getting blown out of its pot in a windstorm, there is rarely anything in bonsai that can't wait an hour or two while you seek input. Otherwise you will just repeat the same mistakes that most of us have already made.

As far as rooting compounds go, they are designed to grow roots where none exist. Application of rooting hormone on existing roots either does nothing, or may actually harm roots if applied at a high enough concentration. Reserve your use of rooting hormone for cuttings, air-layers, or the base of a trunk where you are trying to get roots to grow where they don't currently grow. Do not use rooting compound when repotting a tree that already has roots.

The best way to get roots to strengthen (when they are already present) is to grow foliage mass. This does two things: first, it provides a lot of extra carbs to fuel growth, and second, it produces a lot of auxin (a plant hormone that tells a plant "yo I have a lot of foliage - time to make more roots!")
 
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