I presume it's better to wound the edges again or not (each year)?around the edges
I re-wound them, yesWow, it's bigger then I expected from the first picture.
I presume it's better to wound the edges again or not (each year)?
Perhaps planting it in the ground for 2 years? (ánd wound / paste the transition each year).But I agree....it seems something should be done. Sorce
Perhaps planting it in the ground for 2 years? (ánd wound / paste the transition each year).
Glues
If you're only covering the exposed wood, you may not be getting the best use. Bare wood needs no sealing. It is the cambium tissue surrounding the bare wood that need protection from drying out.The above glue comes off well...
In fact...I have to put more on the elm...
Note....I don't put it in the cambium or bark...only the exposed wood!
I got rolls of duct sealant....
Have still been hesitant to use it...
1. I haven't needed it much.
2. It's not the same stuff everyone uses.
3. I paid $ for the big tub of Japanese stuff.
Sorce
wet your fingers a bit
It's stickier than the Japanese stuff. It sticks to fingernails. I used it on the cedar elm I dug back in May. The cut wound is about three inches across. I put the duct seal over the top and about 1/4 down the sides. The trunk callused all the way around the trunk underneath the seal in a month or so. That callus wasn't over the bare wood of the trunk--that will take years--but the bare wood under the seal has not cracked.Same like the Japanese stuff...I guess
That's what the sponge thingy is for...
It doesn't stick to that...or a fingernail!
The reason I put glue on the exposed wood is it cracks, and generally becomes an unsmooth surface if I leave it to the elements...
Of course...this is the first large cut I am observing heal over, and I didn't have a saw when I made the cut, so it was a rough pruners cut on too large a trunk.
However, I did saw the Glossy Buckthorn just this spring, and it is already cracked...
Much softer wood than elm though...
Sorce
If you rewound it > that's the healing part / getting it looking better, the paste is just to keep it clean and not killing the tree with infections.Grafting wax is used at the first big chop. I didn't know that using it every year helps healing.
Thanks for the comments.
The paste is mostly to keep the wound moist and from drying out. They do nothing really to ward off infections. In some cases, they can actually promote infection--if you're not careful--by sealing bacteria into a moist, dark environment that can accelerate their growth.If you rewound it > that's the healing part / getting it looking better, the paste is just to keep it clean and not killing the tree with infections.
Yes, its not in a good mixture yet. Here spring came fast this year, so i couldn't change soil. I'll use a mixture like 1x pumice or lava, 1x pebble and 1x peatNot sure what you mean, but it never really hurts to leave extra buds as they can always be removed later. I also just noticed the soil it is in... not very good. In spring I would certainly repot it into the largest colander (or grow box) on hand into a better substrate (do you have access to pumice/lava/akadama/etc.?).