Ulmus (semi cascade)

boguz

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Hi all
Here is my ulmus tree. It has approx. 10cm of trunk. I want to work semi cascade with this tree.
There is no wiring done on this tree, just cut&grow.
 

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klosi

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Hmm. No replies yet. This was some big trunk chop. The transition is not that smooth.
What's your plan for future development?
 

JoeR

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I would just let the leader RUN to smooth out the transition(s). At the same time, you can develop the branching/ ramification of the lower branches. Also, Is the big chop sealed? If not, you should apply cut paste around the edges so it will heal and roll faster (and yes, cut paste DOES help!).
 

sorce

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I'm just figuring on the whole....

"Make a nice cut and get it to transition" thing...

But I agree....it seems something should be done.

Nothing seems lost though....this is a dope ass tree.

Sorce
 

sorce

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Perhaps planting it in the ground for 2 years? (ánd wound / paste the transition each year).

I don't know anything about the ground..
I do know I gotta whole about half that size on an elm and it's closing very good!

I can't show you pics cuz it's locked in the g×dr%=n, stupid, fu@kin, son of a bytch, never shoulda put it in the.....time capsule...!

But I used Loctite .....
This...20160719_130918.jpg
20160719_130932.jpg
To seal the wood...

I like it cuz...it stays pliable, so the healing sort of pushes it away as it grows, and it still keeps the wood from rotting...

I just did my "The Collected Unknown" glossy buckthorn like this too. I put the Japanese paste over that one....cuz it seems to need a little more protection than elm.

Sorce
 

boguz

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Grafting wax is used at the first big chop. I didn't know that using it every year helps healing.
Thanks for the comments.
 

rockm

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Best sealant I've ever used is simple duct seal used in air conditioning/heating systems.
http://www.alliedelec.com/ideal-ind...=30980760979&gclid=CNKZ27a0gM4CFQaqaQodu40AKQ

Don't know what the equivalent is in Turkey, but there has to be one. it's non-toxic and you can generally peel it off after its done it's job. Glues and especially some of the Japanese purpose-made cut seal paste is impossible to remove even when the tree is "finished."
 

sorce

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The above glue comes off well...
In fact...I have to put more on the elm...

Note....I don't put it in the cambium or bark...only the exposed wood!

I got rolls of duct sealant....
Have still been hesitant to use it...
1. I haven't needed it much.
2. It's not the same stuff everyone uses.
3. I paid $ for the big tub of Japanese stuff.

Sorce
 

rockm

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The above glue comes off well...
In fact...I have to put more on the elm...

Note....I don't put it in the cambium or bark...only the exposed wood!

I got rolls of duct sealant....
Have still been hesitant to use it...
1. I haven't needed it much.
2. It's not the same stuff everyone uses.
3. I paid $ for the big tub of Japanese stuff.

Sorce
If you're only covering the exposed wood, you may not be getting the best use. Bare wood needs no sealing. It is the cambium tissue surrounding the bare wood that need protection from drying out.

I've used the Japanese "toothpaste" consistency and clay-based sealants. Their effectiveness is OK to crummy-especially the tub clay. The runnier toothpaste stuff is impossible to get off of trees, even ten years down the line, without removing bark. They're also pretty expensive.

I've been using the duct sealant for a year or so now. IMO, it works as well, or in some cases, better than any of the Japanese stuff or wood glue. It is easy to remove and from the callusing on the elms, maples and other trees I've used it on it is very effective. It's also $5 for more than you'll use in a decade. Only drawback is that you have to wet your fingers a bit before using it, or it sticks to them.
 

sorce

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wet your fingers a bit

Same like the Japanese stuff...I guess
That's what the sponge thingy is for...
It doesn't stick to that...or a fingernail!

The reason I put glue on the exposed wood is it cracks, and generally becomes an unsmooth surface if I leave it to the elements...

Of course...this is the first large cut I am observing heal over, and I didn't have a saw when I made the cut, so it was a rough pruners cut on too large a trunk.

However, I did saw the Glossy Buckthorn just this spring, and it is already cracked...
Much softer wood than elm though...

Sorce
 

rockm

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Same like the Japanese stuff...I guess
That's what the sponge thingy is for...
It doesn't stick to that...or a fingernail!

The reason I put glue on the exposed wood is it cracks, and generally becomes an unsmooth surface if I leave it to the elements...

Of course...this is the first large cut I am observing heal over, and I didn't have a saw when I made the cut, so it was a rough pruners cut on too large a trunk.

However, I did saw the Glossy Buckthorn just this spring, and it is already cracked...
Much softer wood than elm though...

Sorce
It's stickier than the Japanese stuff. It sticks to fingernails. I used it on the cedar elm I dug back in May. The cut wound is about three inches across. I put the duct seal over the top and about 1/4 down the sides. The trunk callused all the way around the trunk underneath the seal in a month or so. That callus wasn't over the bare wood of the trunk--that will take years--but the bare wood under the seal has not cracked.
 

Cypress187

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Grafting wax is used at the first big chop. I didn't know that using it every year helps healing.
Thanks for the comments.
If you rewound it > that's the healing part / getting it looking better, the paste is just to keep it clean and not killing the tree with infections.
 

rockm

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If you rewound it > that's the healing part / getting it looking better, the paste is just to keep it clean and not killing the tree with infections.
The paste is mostly to keep the wound moist and from drying out. They do nothing really to ward off infections. In some cases, they can actually promote infection--if you're not careful--by sealing bacteria into a moist, dark environment that can accelerate their growth.
 

boguz

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BTW what do you think about small buds that appear between surface wood and cambium, should i pull them off, or there may be a good branch?
 

JoeR

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Not sure what you mean, but it never really hurts to leave extra buds as they can always be removed later. I also just noticed the soil it is in... not very good. In spring I would certainly repot it into the largest colander (or grow box) on hand into a better substrate (do you have access to pumice/lava/akadama/etc.?).
 

boguz

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Not sure what you mean, but it never really hurts to leave extra buds as they can always be removed later. I also just noticed the soil it is in... not very good. In spring I would certainly repot it into the largest colander (or grow box) on hand into a better substrate (do you have access to pumice/lava/akadama/etc.?).
Yes, its not in a good mixture yet. Here spring came fast this year, so i couldn't change soil. I'll use a mixture like 1x pumice or lava, 1x pebble and 1x peat
 
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