Twin Trunk Maple Progression

PeaceLoveBonsai

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A late summer update: I haven't thought too much about this tree lately, but I've begun to think about my plans come winter/spring. Here's a quick pic of the tree today.IMG_4902.JPG


I'm wondering about the trunk of this particular tree. It appears to have some pretty serious reverse taper, maybe due to the twin trunks?IMG_4899.JPG


I'm soliciting thoughts from the Nuts... I figure one option is to airlayer (or chop) the smaller trunk. Then maybe the new trunk line would look like this:IMG_4900.JPG

Or possibly ground layer new roots, then repot at a higher (or lower depending on your perspective) base, allowing me to keep the twin trunks and have new nebari? Something like this:IMG_4901.JPG

Any thoughts or recommendations from the Nutters? Thanks in advance.
 

PeaceLoveBonsai

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I haven't. I suppose my thinking is there is more character on the larger trunk. Also, w/ the cut referenced above (about half way up the larger trunk), I think there could be some real nice taper w/ the large trunk base.
 

plant_dr

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I thought I could see a branch hiding back there. If you were were to lose that larger trunk in favor of the smaller one, that larger branch at the whorl could be a new apex for it. That would give you some good movement and taper.

Have you checked for a nebari beneath the soil?
 

PeaceLoveBonsai

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I think I've decided to go w/ the ground layer new roots option. My 4-5 year plan/vision might look like this: 20160830_193904334_iOS.jpg


My concern w/ an airlayer of either of the 2 trunks (as was suggested before) is that it would create a very large scar that would need to heal, and to heal quickly, go back into the ground. This option allows me to keep the twin trunk (which I prefer) and I might have a nice tree in a few years time.

Now, my question is do I use the tourniquet method to build out the new roots? My research indicates that the tourniquet might help create a nice flair at the trunk line, the process might take 2 years. Year 1 using the tourniquet, then cut below the tourniquet in year 2 to create roots from the new callus that formed in year 1. Anyone out there able to confirm my thoughts/research?
 

augustine

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Gdy2000 wrote: "Now, my question is do I use the tourniquet method to build out the new roots? My research indicates that the tourniquet might help create a nice flair at the trunk line, the process might take 2 years. Year 1 using the tourniquet, then cut below the tourniquet in year 2 to create roots from the new callus that formed in year 1. Anyone out there able to confirm my thoughts/research"

I am not familiar with this technique. However, I removed a layer at the base of an American Elm in March 2016 that was applied in June 2015. The trunk was about 2 inches. I cut the ring of bark and scraped the area. Then I applied a wire tourniquet just under the top cut, it worked well and formed roots all the way around the trunk. Rooting hormone was used. Maybe other folks have maple specific or other advice. (Elm may be easier to layer than Japanese maple.)

Personally, I would also take a layer from the small trunk just above the branches. This diameter should take easy and yield nice shohin. material. The layer should be short and close to the upper branch so that taper can be developed.

I also have questions: Is this the species acer palmatum or a cultivar? Is it grafted? Would your work be affected by a graft union?

Good luck!
 

PeaceLoveBonsai

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This tree came in strong this spring.
IMG_8355.JPG

I decided to start both an airlayer and a ground layer.

Here's the ground layer.

IMG_8375.JPG

IMG_8379.JPG

My goal is to bring the twin trunks lower to the soil line, so they are coming right up from the ground. I hope that makes sense. I'll try to post some picks of my inspiration...just got to find them.

Happy Easter BNut!
 

RobertB

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Looks like a good plan. Thank goodness you didn't chop the larger trunk down to the sister and use the sister as your main trunk. I like both and like the larger with it's subtle movement.
 
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