Trunk diameter reduction in trunk chop

[Neli]

I tried to post this is advanced techniques but it seems I am not allowed.
A dear friend that helps me a lot with my styling sent me this today. Thought I shall share.since I think it is very interesting.
This is from Matiyie Che Makhtar: He is a genius and very experienced and creative artist.
Pictures show you everything.

 

[Neli]

Perhaps the hole can be filled with something so the heart wood does not rot. So far I thought of car body pannelbeating filler...but there can be better things ???

 

[edprocoat]

Maybe some 2 part epoxy? I bet this has to be the first thread here about trunk reduction, usually that is the opposite of what Bonsai need.

ed

 

[calviny]

I saw a post on bonsaitonight where he used concrete to fill in a large hole in the trunk.it's a good idea though. I had thought of doing the same thing to create taper for a maple stump but haven't tried it yet. Let us know how it turns out.

 

[edprocoat]

I saw a post on bonsaitonight where he used concrete to fill in a large hole in the trunk.it's a good idea though. I had thought of doing the same thing to create taper for a maple stump but haven't tried it yet. Let us know how it turns out.

It would seem that concrete would just hold water against the wood enhancing rot. I know concrete absorbs water and that it takes much longer to dry out for that reason, add to that the fact that concrete expands as it dries ...

ed

 

[Poink88]

Somewhat similar to this...
http://bonsainut.com/forums/showthread.php?10279-For-BVF-and-Rockm-a-tree-without-potential

 

[Neli]

I think it might be a useful technique for some situations. Why I thought of dent filler which is used for panel beating. ( dont know the name) It is very flexible, drys hard, does not shrink, and can be filed or smoothed...

 

[Neli]

Somewhat similar to this...
http://bonsainut.com/forums/showthread.php?10279-For-BVF-and-Rockm-a-tree-without-potential

I am waiting to see if the cambium on your tree joins. If you have filled it and the filler is smooth I dont see a reason why it should not work.

 

[Poink88]

For filler, I use this based on Kathy Shaner's recommendation
http://www.amazon.com/Donald-Durham...S2LU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1385555057&sr=8-1

 

[Tieball]

Seeing the heal

Seeing how this heals over will be interesting and informative, I suppose if the wound area is smoothed out on the top and sides of all the cuts it should heal well. This post is interesting...something new for me...my time has been spent growing "thicker" trunks...I had not encountered "thinning" a trunk yet. But, good to know there is a solution if needed.

 

[A Random User]

Thanks Neli for the thread post. The sky is the limit, especially
for those out there doing fast growing tropicals ...
These kind of procedures really work well with trees like ficus
because they will just heal right over it.

With other trees that are slow growing, and slow to put on
bark... one should be careful that you don't end up with some
nasty scars... Ruining a tree.

 

[Neli]

Glad you like it darling.

 

[Poink88]

I am waiting to see if the cambium on your tree joins. If you have filled it and the filler is smooth I dont see a reason why it should not work.

I am waiting for the leaves to drop. I will clean it up, trim, and investigate how the wound is...healing or not. Thank you.

 

[Poink88]

BTW, regarding the posted technique...make sure that your tree supports portions like that which has no leaves at the tips. NOTE that some will die off when turned "terminal" (dead end) w/o leaves. Just a precaution.

 

[Neli]

I am waiting for the leaves to drop. I will clean it up, trim, and investigate how the wound is...healing or not. Thank you.

I like people that do innovative work, and I give you credit for that!

 

[cascade]

I have seen this technique in one of the bonsai magazines. Interesting it is, yes. I was wondering when I read it and am still wondering about the application.

One needs to be in a warmer climate to conduct this technique. If you live in a subtropical to tropical environment, you calculate the trunk chop and allow for proper taper, which then is grown. So you chop further down and grow it into taper or grow a taller tree. With many ficus I usually have the opposite problem, mainly adding girth to the upper trunk.

Also, care needs to taken with moisture getting inside the wound.

I guess I am trying to ask myself, why would I do this if I live a warm climate where even an umbrella will root when stuck in the ground?

Best,
Dorothy

 

[Poink88]

I guess I am trying to ask myself, why would I do this if I live a warm climate where even an umbrella will root when stuck in the ground?

LOL. Count your blessings Dorothy. Count your blessings.

 

[A Random User]

I have seen this technique in one of the bonsai magazines. Interesting it is, yes. I was wondering when I read it and am still wondering about the application.

One needs to be in a warmer climate to conduct this technique. If you live in a subtropical to tropical environment, you calculate the trunk chop and allow for proper taper, which then is grown. So you chop further down and grow it into taper or grow a taller tree. With many ficus I usually have the opposite problem, mainly adding girth to the upper trunk.

Also, care needs to taken with moisture getting inside the wound.

I guess I am trying to ask myself, why would I do this if I live a warm climate where even an umbrella will root when stuck in the ground?

Best,
Dorothy

Not to disagree with you Dorothy, but I could think of two very good reasons...

The first being when one has to do a trunk chop on a very thick piece of material.
Rather than having to wait years for it to heal up, I could see were this would cut
the heal time in half, if not more.

Second, if one is not wanting to do a larger tree, but instead a sumo...
How many sumo willow leaf ficus have we all seen with an awesome really cool
thick base with no taper. One could really end up with an awesome very small tree,
using this procedure.

If it was me... I would also try and do a thread graft, or 2 through it at the same time.
Not only would this speed up the recovery time, but help progress the tree along as
well.

 

[Neli]

I plan to use it in this situation. This is a poincetia, with a trunk almost 10 cm. I have never seen a bonsai from it. It is a airlayer which I just removed.
What are my options? Cut back hard? Or keep one of the forking branches, that is very straight and has no taper what so ever. The whole tree has movement but that top part is not good looking.
Can You imagine the wound I will have, if I do that? How long do you think it will take for it to heal? And how big a scar will be there. Plus how long do You think it will take me to grow a new leader?
Honestly....I dont have the time. If there was a internode on that last section...it could have been some what more reasonable to think of reducing that long branch and regrowing a leader...but there is none.
Also this tree will simply rot if I do a slanted cut, in order to create some kind of illusion of taper.
For me this method seems like the perfect solution.
I removed it 3 days ago.

And I love the flowers so I had to try it:

 

[nathanbs]

Thank goodness not the poinsettia I was thinking of