When I got this one, the canopy was fairly large and made up of tons of branches coming out of two spots on opposite sides - looked like an octopus and created horrible reverse taper. So I chopped the trunk and in the process killed my proposed new leader. Seems to be for the best as the tree needed to be shorter. Newer leader is growing and I got it Velcro-ed to the top. I’ll chop again on an angle next year.
Trident Maple No. 3
- Thread starter dbonsaiw
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Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
Looks like you are intending to stay with the vertical trunk?
Looking at the nebari. Are there any roots on the left side? If so, I suspect a slight tilt to the right would improve the nebari. Then a not so vertical new leader might give a good bend in the trunk.
Looking at the nebari. Are there any roots on the left side? If so, I suspect a slight tilt to the right would improve the nebari. Then a not so vertical new leader might give a good bend in the trunk.
From what I recall from the repot the nebari is ok. Here’s a pic from another angle where you can see the roots on the other side.
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
The roots may be Ok but the point is that if they are buried nobody can see them. IMHO in the trunk angle means half the roots are not visible then maybe it is not the best trunk angle for that particular tree.
Your tree, your choice. Just making observations (unsolicited) observations.
Your observations and opinions are always appreciated and welcomed. The visibility of the roots is really a reflection of my (poor??) repotting into the grow box. Was more concerned about getting the cut stumps covered than really thinking about the trunk angle. I’m just getting started with this tree and frankly have been considering whether to cut lower next year given that the trunk is so straight and isn’t huge to begin with. Please keep the advice coming - now it’s solicited.
SeanS
Omono
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Out of interest, why do you prefer to orient your leaders straight up? I’ve noticed you did the same in another thread as well. Are you building a formal upright with this tree?
TBH, I tend to orient my new leaders at an angle from the cut so that the cut is visible from the front. I was going down that path originally but the leader was a fail. The newer leader was growing pretty straight so I just went with it. This tree has a decent base and taper down low and then a straight pipe. I probably should not have left it so tall in the first place. As you suggested, if the tree is angled a bit to the right in the first pic, the trunk can have a bend with a new leader. I’d probably place it a little further down and the cut would be visible from the front.
The other trident - stumpy- is technically my sons. I bought it and I care for it on the daily, but someone it’s “his”. Again, I had a leader growing on an angle with the cut visible from the front. He didn’t like that. A branch grew in the crotch between the leader and trunk straight up and he snipped the leader to make this straight branch the new leader. I’m going to see if I can wire this new leader so that there’s movement from the front view. (Building bonsai by committee- lol).
The other trident - stumpy- is technically my sons. I bought it and I care for it on the daily, but someone it’s “his”. Again, I had a leader growing on an angle with the cut visible from the front. He didn’t like that. A branch grew in the crotch between the leader and trunk straight up and he snipped the leader to make this straight branch the new leader. I’m going to see if I can wire this new leader so that there’s movement from the front view. (Building bonsai by committee- lol).
Here's a great trident from Walter Pall. It's basically straight. I'm sure the tree is way bigger than mine, but proportionally "similar" - yeah, I know, that base!. Just food for thought on potential next steps for the tree.
I don't want to overstate this, but when looking at bonsai I admire, I notice a great base/nebari and awesome ramification of branches. It's almost as if the trunk itself is somewhat secondary. Again, I don't want to overstate this.
I'm in my fourth year of bonsai and still have some basic questions - (i) what does a tree look like?; and (ii) how do I get my trees to look like that? I'm finding more and more that I am drawn to more subtle movement and not exaggerated bends. Also tend to be drawn to the more natural looking trees than the Japanese informal upright.
I don't want to overstate this, but when looking at bonsai I admire, I notice a great base/nebari and awesome ramification of branches. It's almost as if the trunk itself is somewhat secondary. Again, I don't want to overstate this.
I'm in my fourth year of bonsai and still have some basic questions - (i) what does a tree look like?; and (ii) how do I get my trees to look like that? I'm finding more and more that I am drawn to more subtle movement and not exaggerated bends. Also tend to be drawn to the more natural looking trees than the Japanese informal upright.
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Wulfskaar
Omono
I pretty much agree with you @dbonsaiw
I'm also in my 4th year and some of my seedlings are getting old enough to start thinking about their future design.
I plan on making some very Japanese-styled trees and also some more natural ones. I think I'm personally more attracted to the natural looking ones, but I want to make several styles for experience and also for diversity in my collection.
I'm also in my 4th year and some of my seedlings are getting old enough to start thinking about their future design.
I plan on making some very Japanese-styled trees and also some more natural ones. I think I'm personally more attracted to the natural looking ones, but I want to make several styles for experience and also for diversity in my collection.
