Starting London Plane bonsai

Gori

Sapling
Messages
35
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6
Location
Baltimore, MD
USDA Zone
7a
Hi, everyone

I've been interested in growing London Plane tree for a few years now, but did not have any luck. Collected seeds, stratified or collected in spring and planted in boxes and in soil outside but had no germination. As it's the next seeds collection season, I wanted to put together the key steps and tips. I reviewed a number of sources for this tree and instructions vary. These are a few different versions summaries:

A. Collect seeds: in the spring. Soak for 24–48 hours. Soil: seed-starting soil or potting mix. Bright location. Keep the soil moist. Can cover the tray with plastic wrap

B Collect seeds: in autumn or early winter when they turn brown. Plant: immediately. Cover lightly with soil.

B2 Alternatively, keep the seeds cool and dry in the refrigerator for five weeks. Plant: in late winter or early spring. Soak for 48 hours.

C Collect seeds: in late fall, around November, before the seed pods start breaking up. From the tree or from the ground. Let the seed pods dry. Crush the balls to get the seeds. Soak: 24-48 hours. Sow in cold frames or indoor seed trays. Keep the soil moist, using a plastic cover and provide indirect light.

D Stratification: in damp paper towel or a mix of peat moss and sand in a plastic bag for about 30 to 60 days. Spring-collected seeds may not require as long a stratification period as those collected in late fall. Moisture : moist but not soggy. Planting: in well-draining potting mix 1/4 inch deep.
Bright location, temperature 65°F to 75°F (18°C to 24°C).

I know London plane tree has low germination rate so to increase chances of germination, my plan is to split seeds in a few groups and handle them differently based on different combination of each variable parameter from the above instructions. Some groups will have seeds taken from trees and some collected from ground, some in spring and some in fall, some groups planted immediately, some kept dry in fridge and stratified, etc.

Separately, I will be checking for seedlings in the local plane tree locations in spring. Somehow I missed this option, at least at the right time.

Also, I wanted to try propagate them from cuttings. About 7 years ago I took about 8 in early spring and kept in water. Two of them got nice roots, but the leaves started looking unhealthy. Also, as I learned later, transferring plants with roots, started in water, to soil is a challenge. Anyway, those two cuttings did not survive. My previous year cuttings were planted in spring in cardboard boxes/soil, but all died. I should revisit the process carefully again. I think I was not able to maintain proper moisture.

There were some that I planted outdoors. Out of those, two looked alive until late fall. One actually produced 3 new healthy leaves, which, I think, is indication of some root growth, but the other one just kept whatever leaves it had. So I am thinking what would be the best point when I can transfer them to pots.
I found a recommendation that cutting method works best with young twigs that just turned wooden, meaning, probably late summer, whereas I always tried to cut them in early spring.

Separately I'll try American Sycamore.

Any comments/suggestions would be appreciated.
 
In general terms, spring cuttings can root faster but the shoots are more tender so it is a challenge to keep them alive long enough to root.
Semi-hard wood in summer is a bit more resilient so it may be easier to strike them at that stage.
Hardwood cuttings from shoots taken after leaf drop tends to be even easier to look after as there's no leaves to drain water out of the cuttings. Deciduous hardwood cuttings callus slowly over winter then put out roots as the weather warm up in spring.
None of those methods is better or worse but some work better depending on what conditions you have where you grow the cuttings. Try all and see wat works for you.

I thought London Plane was a sterile cultivar and can't grow from seeds but maybe it's just very low germination. Can't help with any advice on how to get started from seed but starting from seed is a very slow and painstaking way to develop bonsai.

I guess you are aware that developing good bonsai from trees with big leaves is very difficult? That's why you see so few plane and sycamore bonsai. I've often admired the great trunks and bark on plane trees but have never bothered to try because of those great big leaves and because they don't produce fine twigs or ramify easily.

Good luck with the project.
 
Recommend trying to air layer ☺️ also don't recommend sycamore or the London plane for bonsai... You'd be better off with a maple if you like their leaves very similar but maples can have smaller leaves
 
Thank you for good information. It's a good idea to try cuttings after leaves are gone. Most of my bonsai (I should probably say, pre-bonsai) are from seeds. I know about big leaves and eventually may give up if did not get satisfactory outcome. This happened to my silver maples.
I wish I was able to do air layer, but unfortunately I do not have any trees around I can have easy access to handle air layer. There were a few, but they died, looks like due to a disease last year and were cut off. And yes on maples - I have a bunch of those!
 
I think they do germinate from seeds - mainly based on the one I found growing in a sidewalk crack a few years ago. I saw similar a number of times whilst living in a metropolitan location with a large plane tree population. I got rid of it. The leaves are enormous and not suited to bonsai. Of course that’s only opinion and if it’s a dream of yours, by all means give it a try.
 
I would just say that (at all sudden) I became attracted by these trees appearance and decided to invest some time to see how much can I get.
 
Good luck. This and sycamore have been tried repeatedly over the decades. Doesn’t make terrific bonsai. Leggy growth and persistent big to huge leaves (which can reduce but it’s not easy to do)
 
I'm growing a sycamore bonsai, and I don't recommend it. I'm mostly still growing it because I'm susceptible to the sunken cost fallacy.
 
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