Starting a Forest without a pot?

[Jaberwky17]

I'd like to try my hand at a small deciduous forest - hornbeam, maple, etc. I don't mind starting out with young saplings. However I am not in a position to purchase a pot for this right now, especially before knowing how the forest will do in my care. It seems like all the info on forests I've read - growers are using pots or slabs that are ready for a real forest display.

I would think a shallow grow box with some kind of plate or screen to keep the root mass flat would work for now? Then when time to repot into the real thing, I can either separate the individual trees or simply transfer the support plate/screen into the new pot.

Any other ideas?

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Michael Hagedorn does a lot with unusual slabs. DanW here studies with him, so maybe he'll weigh in. Some reading material:
http://crataegus.com/2014/06/18/new-spin-on-slabs/
http://crataegus.com/2012/04/07/spruce-on-nylon-board/

 

[Stan Kengai]

I would use a 2"-3" deep grow box with only screen on the bottom (screen supported as needed). It's normal to use some kind of metal mesh during the initial planting to wire the plants onto. After a couple of years, depending on growth, the mesh can be removed during repotting, and in a few more years the roots will be one intgrated root mass.

I've also seen forests planted in shallow tubs and in Anderson flats.

 

[PaulH]

A box works great until it gets close to show - ready then you can put it in a pot or on a slab.

One suggestion: You mentioned starting with saplings. It is important that you have a variety of sizes in your trees both in height and diameter to create a good forest. Don't start with a bunch of small whips or that is all you'll ever have.

 

[Jaberwky17]

One suggestion: You mentioned starting with saplings. It is important that you have a variety of sizes in your trees both in height and diameter to create a good forest. Don't start with a bunch of small whips or that is all you'll ever have.

Yes I intend on following suggested rules of forest planting - Naka, Herb Gustafson books that I have. thanks for the added suggestion

 

[fourteener]

I've always started my forests in some kind of training box. 3 years in a box will allow the roots to intertwine enough to move it onto a slab as a mass.

 

[crust]

Plywood, son plywood.

 

[Bunjeh]

Plywood it is.

Plywood, son plywood.

Just planted my first forest. A group of seven yamadori doug firs. I built the box of scrap wood with a plywood bottom. Cut four 1" holes and covered them with screen. Wired the roots to the bottom and built a support structure which I wired the trunks to. Total cost? 'bout a $1.50 for the soil.

 

[jk_lewis]

I doubt 4 1-inch holes will be even close to enough. Your tray will stay pretty wet, so be careful with your watering. I don't know how large your box is, but if it is 12-14 inches wide, I would have drilled 8 holes -- at least.

Wide, flat pots do NOT drain well.

 

[sorce]

Im gonna start a forest with no pot this early summer!

Keep us updated!

Sorce

 

[crust]

Just planted my first forest. A group of seven yamadori doug firs. I built the box of scrap wood with a plywood bottom. Cut four 1" holes and covered them with screen. Wired the roots to the bottom and built a support structure which I wired the trunks to. Total cost? 'bout a $1.50 for the soil.

This sounds perfect to me--yah extra holes(maybe two more) may have been better considering they are conifers but I believe all will be well. I have used 2'x3' plywood with no holes--only strategic wire down holes and had no problems. I learned it was better to drill stratigic hole and thread hold down wire than to use screws directly in the ply because latter its is easier to get it off without disruption. If you have a full mesh bottom the thing really welds on to it and can be hard to get off. Plus the soil I use is not some hyper drainage soil--it is finer and designed for slow consistent grown and hopefully very few transplants. In my slabs I used pretty mature trees and would not transplant for many years--like 10.

 

[Bunjeh]

I doubt 4 1-inch holes will be even close to enough. Your tray will stay pretty wet, so be careful with your watering. I don't know how large your box is, but if it is 12-14 inches wide, I would have drilled 8 holes -- at least.

Wide, flat pots do NOT drain well.

It is 10x18. Thanks for the advice. I am making four more this evening that will be 12x14 to support some junipers that my neighbor is ripping out. How many holes would you recommend?

 

[Bunjeh]

I learned it was better to drill stratigic hole and thread hold down wire than to use screws directly in the ply because latter its is easier to get it off without disruption.

LOL. I just learned this the hard way. If you wire through the holes all you have to do is cut the wire from the bottom of the pot and pull to release. If you attach it to the ply you have to guess where the heck you wired the damn thing.