Shimpaku Juniper #1

MSU JBoots

Shohin
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Location
Grand Rapids Michigan
USDA Zone
6a
I acquired this tree from the West Michigan Bonsai Show 10/2/21. That first fall all I did was manage to keep it alive through winter and then repotted it in the spring. Here’s the tree before and after the repot in spring of 2022. 69C02F03-55BD-4656-A8A7-887FE2050D3D.jpegC21B3496-D322-42F6-AEAB-63C78943A047.jpeg
Tonight I took my first stab at an initial styling. Here was my rough plan.!2FC582B1-EC21-4B21-81B0-3D2C3FB45CF6.jpeg
And here was the finished product with a slight change in planting angle suggested for the future.C0FB8369-F98F-446F-9CA6-EF4276BDF55D.jpeg
I’m actually quite pleased with my work for a beginner and it felt great to get back to practicing the hobby after a long winter break. I didn’t really touch the apex as it was getting late and I was honestly at a loss of what to do with it. I think I’ll just let it recover for the rest of the year but if anyone has suggestions let them rip!
 
Good start for a small juniper bonsai.
Junipers sometimes don't react well to lots of work at once so it's probably safe that you stopped here. Definitely give it a chance to recover before doing more.

Apex of shimpaku is often created by bending the long shoots down a bit. Otherwise just snip off the long shoots to make a compact foliage pad there.
 
Good start for a small juniper bonsai.
Junipers sometimes don't react well to lots of work at once so it's probably safe that you stopped here. Definitely give it a chance to recover before doing more.

Apex of shimpaku is often created by bending the long shoots down a bit. Otherwise just snip off the long shoots to make a compact foliage pad there.
Would you snip those runners now? I was a little afraid to cut the growing tips but with more thought maybe it would be a good idea as that would redistribute auxin and hopefully help push the strength towards the interior more.
 
I don’t think I removed too much foliage but I could be wrong. The majority of what I took off was weak leggy growth that was being shaded out anyways.23A24FD7-416C-4EFB-8224-24CE0070C226.jpeg
 
I'd suggest that right now is the most flexible this tree is ever going to be so unless you're thrilled with the line of the trunk, right now is the time to adjust it. The same goes for the branch angles, though if you'll entertain the idea that the trunk isn't where you want it yet, there's no telling where your branch angles will be until you're finished introducing movement into the trunk.

For the trunk, I'd double wrap thick aluminum wire (copper can work, but I'd suggest double-thick aluminum) and make sure to twist while you bend. That helps spread the bending pressure over more area which yields tighter bends than you'd be able to get with bending alone.

Adding shari along the trunk now is also benefited by the twisting and bending as it takes on more character. Just pull a strip straight down, avoiding branch crotches. Then, bend/twist the trunk and your shari follows adding instant interest. (It also helps the bends set a little quicker.

I've found that junipers are quick to recover when weak and unproductive foliage is removed as long as the tips are still in place. Once you have added the movement in the trunk, and set the branch angles appropriately, I'd remove foliage growing from the bottom of branches, within ½-3/8" of a crotch, and any remaining weak foliage.
 
I'd suggest that right now is the most flexible this tree is ever going to be so unless you're thrilled with the line of the trunk, right now is the time to adjust it. The same goes for the branch angles, though if you'll entertain the idea that the trunk isn't where you want it yet, there's no telling where your branch angles will be until you're finished introducing movement into the trunk.

For the trunk, I'd double wrap thick aluminum wire (copper can work, but I'd suggest double-thick aluminum) and make sure to twist while you bend. That helps spread the bending pressure over more area which yields tighter bends than you'd be able to get with bending alone.

Adding shari along the trunk now is also benefited by the twisting and bending as it takes on more character. Just pull a strip straight down, avoiding branch crotches. Then, bend/twist the trunk and your shari follows adding instant interest. (It also helps the bends set a little quicker.

I've found that junipers are quick to recover when weak and unproductive foliage is removed as long as the tips are still in place. Once you have added the movement in the trunk, and set the branch angles appropriately, I'd remove foliage growing from the bottom of branches, within ½-3/8" of a crotch, and any remaining weak foliage.
I actually tested the trunk and it was quite rigid. As a result I was afraid of breaking it so although I would love a little more bend and twist I think I’ll just let it be. Thanks so much for the input I was definitely considering adding Shari but again was fearful of doing too much work at one time.
 
Would you snip those runners now? I was a little afraid to cut the growing tips but with more thought maybe it would be a good idea as that would redistribute auxin and hopefully help push the strength towards the interior more.
As I said, I would let it be to recover for at least a few weeks before going further. I have certainly removed more foliage at one time and the trees are Ok after but the more you leave the stronger will be recovery and strong trees take further work much better. Far safer and maybe even faster in the long run to move forward slower. It takes some time to get used to thinking in terms of seasons and years rather than our typical immediate needs but trees follow much longer cycles so we need to develop patience and fit in with those timeframes.
Those longer runners at the top will make sure the tree stays healthy in the short term but you can trim them in a few weeks or next month. In the meantime search for ideas on developing and forming apex for junipers.
 
I acquired this tree from the West Michigan Bonsai Show 10/2/21. That first fall all I did was manage to keep it alive through winter and then repotted it in the spring. Here’s the tree before and after the repot in spring of 2022. View attachment 482492View attachment 482493
Tonight I took my first stab at an initial styling. Here was my rough plan.!View attachment 482494
And here was the finished product with a slight change in planting angle suggested for the future.View attachment 482495
I’m actually quite pleased with my work for a beginner and it felt great to get back to practicing the hobby after a long winter break. I didn’t really touch the apex as it was getting late and I was honestly at a loss of what to do with it. I think I’ll just let it recover for the rest of the year but if anyone has suggestions let them rip!
Reposition and rewire so the apex is over the tree and not off the table. The empty space over the bare bonsai pot and medium is what dominates the scene and attracts the viewer. It requires effort for the eyes to find the apex and try to make sense of what is happening. It is disorienting.

It would do very well to enter a black plantar pot, organic soil, fertilizer, and building up of the trunk. A light post/telephone pole stick leaving the ground is not suitable for a base. Find the nebari potential and expose it.

There are important fundamental, horticultural, and structural things to address and complete before the tree is ready for the bonsai pot and the refinement stage. It needs a few years before it will be close to ready for that phase.
 
For the trunk, I'd double wrap thick aluminum wire (copper can work, but I'd suggest double-thick aluminum) and make sure to twist while you bend. That helps spread the bending pressure over more area which yields tighter bends than you'd be able to get with bending alone.
However when Juniper GROWING is worst time to bend/wire as bark can slip and kill whatever bent. Tree needs to do much(years)free growing unless wanting forever skinny trunk☺️. Any low sprout should be cultivated as can become different more interesting trunk in time and no need to bend this one.
 
Thanks for the input everyone. I have lots to consider here. As a beginner I have definitely fallen into the trap of creating something that resembles a bonsai far earlier than it is truly ready.
 
However when Juniper GROWING is worst time to bend/wire as bark can slip and kill whatever bent. Tree needs to do much(years)free growing unless wanting forever skinny trunk☺️. Any low sprout should be cultivated as can become different more interesting trunk in time and no need to bend this one.
That's a wise bit of caution, but the tree as presented doesn't seem to be at the stage of growth this season where that is a problem.
 
Thanks for the input everyone. I have lots to consider here. As a beginner I have definitely fallen into the trap of creating something that resembles a
Thanks for the input everyone. I have lots to consider here. As a beginner I have definitely fallen into the trap of creating something that resembles a bonsai far earlier than it is truly ready.
As a word of encouragement, a literati and bunjin style is good and very nice, but it would be best to have the trunk exit the surface of the soil on the opposite side of the container since it’s such a hard lean/low angle (hard lean left, tree exits more to the right and Vice versa). Centralizing it more will benefit you and the tree in the long run. You can do this!
 
Off to a good start with the tree. I also wanted to add that I can see you are a person of culture based on your Oberon Ale, lol
 
So as I was looking at my benches this afternoon I considered a whole now option for this tree. I have plenty of time to reconsider but the newest idea that popped in my head was removing the entire apex and turn it into a Jin while using the second branch as the future trunk line and wiring up part of that to be a future apex. That would help me bring the trunk line back over the base as well. Here’s a piss poor virt from my phone.
 

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I like the juniper. In terms of positioning, can you see a literati or informal upright? Aesthetically, the reposition would full the empty space in the center of the pot, making the scene complete. The tree has nice bends already, which would create a stellar new position.

I really like the potential in this tree. If I had it, I would slip pot it back into organic medium and fertilizer, and develop more branching and denser foliage. The tree is quite nice! What is the age of tree?
 
And leaving that branch on to the left would become the new leader going upward to the sky.
 
I really like that virt! I've found that as a beginner, it takes me a long while looking at a tree daily to figure out how to style it. Then when it hits me, I can't unsee it. Looks like something similar has happened with this tree for you
 
I like the juniper. In terms of positioning, can you see a literati or informal upright? Aesthetically, the reposition would full the empty space in the center of the pot, making the scene complete. The tree has nice bends already, which would create a stellar new position.

I really like the potential in this tree. If I had it, I would slip pot it back into organic medium and fertilizer, and develop more branching and denser foliage. The tree is quite nice! What is the age of tree?
Thanks. I’ve had the tree for 2 growing seasons but not sure how old it was when I got it. I know i should not have it in a bonsai pot yet but I got only one nice pot and was eager to enjoy a tree in it. I might have to take your advice though and pot it up to let it run wild. It didn’t grow much this year in that small pot while my juniper in the nursery can and soil grew like gang busters!
 
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