Seeking feedback on proposed auto-irrigation system without hose hookup

zeejet

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I’ve been putting this off for the entire first year of my bonsai journey but I have travel coming up where my trusted tree sitters are not available.

I live in a condo with a large balcony - however, it does not have a hose hookup so I cannot use hose valve timers that work off municipal water pressure.

Instead, I figured that I would need to have a large reservoir with a submersible pump that is controlled by a power timer rather than a hose timer. I do have power outlets on the balcony. The pump would then output directly to irrigation lines that then output to drippers/sprayers along the lines.

At this point I’m not sure of a few things:
  • How do I control the flow of the output from the pump? Are there additional valves or fittings I need to be considering? Or are there adjustable flowrate pumps?
  • Is it relatively safe to over-water some of my trees for a week since this system does not discriminate between trees in terms of water needs?
    • All drips/sprays are likely to be on a single line from the pump
    • Should I just get a second system (pump, timer, irrigation kit) and schedule less frequent watering for my less water-loving trees? I'd like this system to hold my trees over for 1-2 week long trips in the future.
Does this sound like a reasonable setup for an irrigation system overall? I have a relatively small collection due to the space constraints of a balcony (about 20 trees) so I think this might work.
 
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Is it relatively safe to over-water some of my trees for a week since this system does not discriminate between trees in terms of water needs?
For a week I would not be concerned.
 
A week or 2 of overwatering is no problem unless you have already overwatered beforehand. It takes many weeks of soggy soil to cause root rot so short term overwatering is not the problem some make out. Having open soil mix allows even more leeway with extra water.

Most of the mains power times I've seen and used also have a circuit to activate a pump so a submersible pump in a tub of water, connected to that timer circuit, will only come on when the timer starts a cycle then turn off when the watering finishes.
The output from the pump is controlled by the outlets in your system. The pump starts and pressurises the pipes but the outlets (drippers/sprays/ whatever) only let out as much water as they are rated for. You just need to match the pressure and flow rate of the pump to the amount of water the emitters need to operate properly. You'll need to know how many emitters and their flow rates that you will have on the system + size and length of the pipes (though I suspect on a balcony pipe friction loss will be negligible). I suspect the biggest issue will be your water store. Again, calculations are easy - emitter flow rate x number x duration x days. Any micro irrigation fittings should have a flow rating - in gallons per minute for the US.
 
A week or 2 of overwatering is no problem unless you have already overwatered beforehand. It takes many weeks of soggy soil to cause root rot so short term overwatering is not the problem some make out. Having open soil mix allows even more leeway with extra water.

Most of the mains power times I've seen and used also have a circuit to activate a pump so a submersible pump in a tub of water, connected to that timer circuit, will only come on when the timer starts a cycle then turn off when the watering finishes.
The output from the pump is controlled by the outlets in your system. The pump starts and pressurises the pipes but the outlets (drippers/sprays/ whatever) only let out as much water as they are rated for. You just need to match the pressure and flow rate of the pump to the amount of water the emitters need to operate properly. You'll need to know how many emitters and their flow rates that you will have on the system + size and length of the pipes (though I suspect on a balcony pipe friction loss will be negligible). I suspect the biggest issue will be your water store. Again, calculations are easy - emitter flow rate x number x duration x days. Any micro irrigation fittings should have a flow rating - in gallons per minute for the US.
Thanks for the response!

I currently hand watering with a 4L can and usually only need 1-2 canfuls to water my trees per day (once after checking moisture in the morning and once after checking moisture in the evening). That's only about 8L or 2 gallons a day. For up to 2 week trip, a 35 gallon container should be fine right?
 
If you go to https://www.dripdepot.com/ they have some videos. Typical system will have a pressure regulator. Mine has a 25 psi on it. I have Multiple spray emitters hooked up spread out even over benches which seems to work well. I also Have some spot spitters in boxes on ground for few trees. I have A link tap controller which I can Set schedule from my phone.
 
For up to 2 week trip, a 35 gallon container should be fine right?
That will depend what drippers/sprays you use and how many there are. Auto systems may not be quite as precise as you so may require a little more water to achieve the desired results. 35 gal may be enough. It will also depend how and where the pump draws water from. Most pumps will not be able to get the very last water in a container so you may need to oversize to allow for that as well.
You should always try a new system well before it is needed, to find any bugs and fix them. We see so many auto systems that are installed a few days before and the owner comes home a couple of weeks later to find a pipe popped off or the sprays did not quite cover the entire area, etc. Set up and run for a couple of weeks, at least, while you are there to spot any problems.
 
Agree with @Shibui that you will probably need more than 35gal. Well mine is on city water my link tap has a flow meter so it seems mine runs about 2.3 gpm when running so after 10 minutes will get 23 gallons and do usually get less efficient than watering by hand. And your setup would be different based on how many emitters you have. Having a larger container would probably be advisable. I got A 275 gallon IBC tote on Facebook marketplace fairly cheap
 
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Be careful about putting a pressure regulator on a system with a pump. The regulator is good to not blow off the emittors but can cause back pressure on the pump. That can be very bad for the pump depending on the pump. Don't use an overly large pump for the job.
 
Be careful about putting a pressure regulator on a system with a pump. The regulator is good to not blow off the emittors but can cause back pressure on the pump. That can be very bad for the pump depending on the pump. Don't use an overly large pump for the job.
Interesting so how do you keep it regulated? I know my water system said not to go above 25 psi. I was Looking at a pump that does 45 psi so guess will be interested to see how that might work. Was hoping to add that to watering system next year since this year growing season almost done.
 
Interesting so how do you keep it regulated? I know my water system said not to go above 25 psi. I was Looking at a pump that does 45 psi so guess will be interested to see how that might work. Was hoping to add that to watering system next year since this year growing season almost done.

You need the regulator. The thing is not to have an overpowered delivery pump.

The 45psi is probably with zero head and turns. It's also not terribly higher than 25psi. It might be fine once you hook up the delivery lines and regulator.

I want to repeat what @Shibui stated. Set the system up and test/monitor it for a week or so to make sure it works without problems
 
Good to know. I would eventually like to have water system connected to IBC tote for rain water although city water for a week of vacation not end of world either as bad water better than no water 😂
 
I've got RO and the fertilizer contains a micronutrient profile so we should be good on that haha.

Thanks for all the helpful tips!
 
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