Sabina Juniper - need advice

[BonPiotr]

Hi,
I need advice on one of my first projects - sabina juniper variety tamariscifoglia. I have been developing this tree for year now and I need advice on further steps. Material isn't great, but it was my first tree, which I bought from nursery without knowledge that I have now. I didn't know what I'm doing back then, so please don't be harsh on me.

Last year i have trimmed it and bended some branches and this year it is after repoting to akadama/kiryu mix and more bending this time with use of rafia. I have used airpot to let it grow faster and stronger without planting it into ground (I don't have garden) I have been feeding it with heavy bonsai fertilizer this season.

Here are my questions to you:
- should I focus on developing trunk diameter and leave the rest? It seems like top priority to me.
- what to do (now or in the future) to make foliage more compact?
- should i reduce number of branches (on the photo you will see why), which branches would you cut?
- what would you change in the design? I want to stick to the semi-cascade/windswept style. I don't like full cascade style.

Here are some photos:

Start of project


Result of first prunning and first wiring, which I have done after a month



After repotting this spring. I have made two mistakes - bad positioning of whole tree and cutting lower branch, which could be beneficial as a sacrificial branch




I have embraced the fact and heavy bended it to make it more compact, optically shorten the trunk line and introduce some movement to "the stick" It is current state of tree



Top view



This years growth, seems to be happy




My main concern - crowded spot, which will probably result in inverse taper in future



My second concern - rather leggy branches with folliage at the ends




If you want more photos, let me know. I have dedicated folder for saving photos of each project and I can also take a pic of some element.

 

[jerzyjerzy]

Bend it much, much more, including rotation. Bend both the main trunk, and branches. Do not remove any foliage for a couple of years.

See

 

[BonPiotr]

Bend it much, much more, including rotation. Bend both the main trunk, and branches. Do not remove any foliage for a couple of years.

See

I will probably do it, but to be on safe side I want to do this over time

 

[pandacular]

I can't tell for sure, but that raffia looks like it's been very thickly and not very tightly. Not sure you're getting anything out of if that is the case.

 

[BonPiotr]

I can't tell for sure, but that raffia looks like it's been very thickly and not very tightly. Not sure you're getting anything out of if that is the case.

It's true, this was my first time with raffia, so I have made mistake or two. For sure it's thick, someone on YouTube said to overlap thread half the way on the previous laid one. Now it sounds ridiculous . Thankfully I haven't heard any cracks or splitting in trunk during wiring, so it will at least prevent wire from bitting in.

 

[pandacular]

For sure it's thick, someone on YouTube said to overlap thread half the way on the previous laid one.

This part is true, though I've seen it as little as 30%. I thinj the individual strands you grab were likely a bit too thick or not soaked enough as well, but that's okay. As my teacher says, every time we do anything we do it a bit better.

Thankfully I haven't heard any cracks or splitting in trunk during wiring,

A little bit of cracking, especially when using raffia, is fine. Bending works by tearing fibers in the wood and letting them recover.

I think the issue with the application of raffia here might have been that you weren't wrapping it tight enough. With each turn or half turn, you need to really tug it taught against the branch or trunk. It needs to be under full compression to aid the tree in it's bending.

 

[BonPiotr]

This part is true, though I've seen it as little as 30%. I thinj the individual strands you grab were likely a bit too thick or not soaked enough as well, but that's okay. As my teacher says, every time we do anything we do it a bit better.


A little bit of cracking, especially when using raffia, is fine. Bending works by tearing fibers in the wood and letting them recover.

I think the issue with the application of raffia here might have been that you weren't wrapping it tight enough. With each turn or half turn, you need to really tug it taught against the branch or trunk. It needs to be under full compression to aid the tree in it's bending.

Thank you for advice and great approach

 

[Deleted member 47471]

Hi,
I need advice on one of my first projects - sabina juniper variety tamariscifoglia. I have been developing this tree for year now and I need advice on further steps. Material isn't great, but it was my first tree, which I bought from nursery without knowledge that I have now. I didn't know what I'm doing back then, so please don't be harsh on me.

Last year i have trimmed it and bended some branches and this year it is after repoting to akadama/kiryu mix and more bending this time with use of rafia. I have used airpot to let it grow faster and stronger without planting it into ground (I don't have garden) I have been feeding it with heavy bonsai fertilizer this season.

Here are my questions to you:
- should I focus on developing trunk diameter and leave the rest? It seems like top priority to me.
- what to do (now or in the future) to make foliage more compact?
- should i reduce number of branches (on the photo you will see why), which branches would you cut?
- what would you change in the design? I want to stick to the semi-cascade/windswept style. I don't like full cascade style.

Here are some photos:

Start of project
View attachment 501785

Result of first prunning and first wiring, which I have done after a month

View attachment 501786

After repotting this spring. I have made two mistakes - bad positioning of whole tree and cutting lower branch, which could be beneficial as a sacrificial branch

View attachment 501792


I have embraced the fact and heavy bended it to make it more compact, optically shorten the trunk line and introduce some movement to "the stick" It is current state of tree

View attachment 501787

Top view

View attachment 501788

This years growth, seems to be happy

View attachment 501790View attachment 501791


My main concern - crowded spot, which will probably result in inverse taper in future

View attachment 501795

My second concern - rather leggy branches with folliage at the ends

View attachment 501789


If you want more photos, let me know. I have dedicated folder for saving photos of each project and I can also take a pic of some element.

Keeping the lowest (first branch) is essential to thickening a trunk and base. The branch would serve as a sacrificial branch if unnecessary to the final design.

Using medium such as organic soil and 10-10-10 fertilizer will help your tree develop. Since you removed the 1st branch, perhaps a slate/slab/wide rock can be placed directly underneath it to flare the roots and widen the trunk as it develops. If you want a bigger a fuller tree, develop it for the next few years.

Outside all the time, plenty of light, oxygen, water as needed, and light seasonal pruning. Let the tree handle the rest. Adequate sunlight will allow the tree to optimally photosynthesize, feed itself, and thus pump out more growth (and back budding).

Happy growing ~