Repot my Japanese Maple?

[spiderland]

Hello everyone! I need some help as to whether or not I should repot my JM that I got from a nursery. The main reason isn’t for aesthetic, percolation, or nebari issues. It’s mostly to do with the size of the trunk. It just makes it to 1” in diameter, and I know that now is a good time to repot before any more budding occurs on my JM.

From my noob knowledge, I thought you were only supposed to put the tree in a bonsai pot when you were ready to display or satisfied with the size, which I’m neither. I know its my own stupidity to buy one already in a bonsai pot and not a nursery/gallon one.

So basically I want to know if I should repot my JM or just wait a year and see how it does. There is some issues with watering as the top soil sometimes spills out as well, which I know isn’t supposed to happen normally (as in you put some distance between the soil and lip so it leaves a small gap the water can fall into the root system) I currently cannot plant it in the ground where I am so my only option this year is containers/pots only. If I do repot it, I would of course only put it in a slightly larger container.

I live in Vancouver, BC Zone 8b (PNW). Sorry for the ramble, I just wanted to make sure I got everything covered before my first post. Any help would be very appreciated

 

[Wulfskaar]

Hi @spiderland! I have a maple that's slightly larger and had similar questions.

I think it's still not too late to repot, but don't wait much longer. If you do repot, put it in a larger pot or grow box with good bonsai soil that drains really well. After that, you're just keeping it happy and healthy and growing until the trunk is thicker. I repotted mine before it got to the stage yours is in, but people I trust said I could wait a bit longer if necessary. Once the leaves are unfurled, it might be better to wait, so make the decision quickly.

 

[0soyoung]

Oh come on, that trunk is not one inch in diameter.

If your pot has a hole in the bottom, I suggest that you don't repot it this year and just revel in the thrill of your new tree through the seasons. Just don't flush it with so much water that you wash the bark mix out of the pot = stop sprinkling water when you see the bark beginning to float. On the other hand, if it doesn't have a hole, the tree should definitely be moved to one with a drainage hole, asap.

Further, there are some interesting things to be learned. The first is that what you do to one branch is pretty much independent of what you do to others. Branches with more buds (and leaves, of course come from buds) thicken more than those with fewer. Since your tree has yet to leaf out, you could test one of the glamorous maple bonsai things. That is, pinch out the newly emergent soft tip of one or two (only) branches. You should see that it stops the growth of the branch 'dead in its tracks (so to speak). Long term it will weaken the tree, but just trying it on a shoot or two won't cause any problems.

Right now, you could cut back one or two of those long branches at the top of the tree to, say, one bud pair (with maples, buds always appear and only appear at distinct nodes, usually in opposed pairs as you should be able to see now on your tree). Then see shat you've got during and at the end of this growing season.

After it has leafed out, you should be able to see that there is a bud at the base of every leaf. Your tree should leaf out, push new shoots with leaves and seemingly stop growing sometime in or around May (exactly when varies with climate). Trim the tip off some of these shoots, don't with the others. Notice what happens. You could also defoliate a couple of other branches at the time. Also decapitate one of these and note what different/similar things happen. You should see that you just get new leaves if you don't remove the branch tip bud.

Most varieties of acer palmatum will produce a second flush of growth beginning in or around August. Decapitate another one or two branches when this pause occurs. Then, at the end of the season, note the angle at which the new branch emerges from the original stem. I've noticed that spring stems are almost perpendicular whereas the angle becomes quite acute, almost parallel, late in the season. Maybe you see the same, maybe not.

Lastly, when you get to the end of the season, you can look at the internodes (the distance between nodes, or by pairs) you tree produced. The newest or most recently made are at the tip and those closest to the old wood of last year or before were the first ones made this year. I find the shortest internodes are made in the final flush.

I suppose it is little more than a boring 'just take care of the tree' prescription, but these few simple things can give yiu virtually every horticultural tool you need to create a prize winning maple bonsai. For that matter bonsai of any opposite-leafed species. Rush out and buy an elm and do these same things - elm leaves and buds occur on one side and then the other, progressing along the length of a branch/stem. All 'deciduous' (angiosperm) trees have either opposite (like Japanese maples) or alternate (like elms)leaves/buds..

 

[Drewski]

Welcome aboard spiderland. Always nice to see another local on the forum. That’s a nice looking little maple. May I be so bold as to ask where you got it?

In the meantime, that soil would be fine to grow it in if it wasn’t in a bonsai pot. So now, you need to make up your mind about the future of the tree. If you like it as is, I would repot it using that pot. However you will want to replace that organic soil with a proper bonsai soil. That organic soil will not do your tree any favours in that bonsai pot. If you want to grow the tree bigger, then I would suggest you repot the tree into a nursery pot or pond basket. If that’s the route you go you can use the soil it came in.

I’m sure our more experienced folks will chime in too.

 

[Shibui]

It just makes it to 1” in diameter

Maybe tape measures are a bit different in BC or perhaps your 1" is a bit of wishful thinking?

Looks like the nodes on the trunk and branches are pretty close together so I'm assuming this is one of the dwarf JM cultivars. That's really good for developing great ramification but the dwarf forms tend to grow quite slow.
Added to possible slow thickening you definitely want increased trunk thickness so I would not wait. Transfer into a larger pot for the next few years at least.
The best way I've found to get good taper in JM trunks is repeated chop and grow. It is likely you'll spend the next 5-10 years developing a good trunk and branches on this one so starting this year makes sense.

 

[19Mateo83]

Hello everyone! I need some help as to whether or not I should repot my JM that I got from a nursery. The main reason isn’t for aesthetic, percolation, or nebari issues. It’s mostly to do with the size of the trunk. It just makes it to 1” in diameter, and I know that now is a good time to repot before any more budding occurs on my JM.

From my noob knowledge, I thought you were only supposed to put the tree in a bonsai pot when you were ready to display or satisfied with the size, which I’m neither. I know its my own stupidity to buy one already in a bonsai pot and not a nursery/gallon one.

So basically I want to know if I should repot my JM or just wait a year and see how it does. There is some issues with watering as the top soil sometimes spills out as well, which I know isn’t supposed to happen normally (as in you put some distance between the soil and lip so it leaves a small gap the water can fall into the root system) I currently cannot plant it in the ground where I am so my only option this year is containers/pots only. If I do repot it, I would of course only put it in a slightly larger container.

I live in Vancouver, BC Zone 8b (PNW). Sorry for the ramble, I just wanted to make sure I got everything covered before my first post. Any help would be very appreciated
View attachment 423685View attachment 423686View attachment 423687

This is a neat little tree. I’m digging the tight nodes on this one.

 

[Potawatomi13]

Many/most Maples like weeds can be repotted most any time. That said late Winter/Spring best time of all. Do it.

 

[spiderland]

Oh come on, that trunk is not one inch in diameter.

wishful thinking

On the other hand, if it doesn't have a hole, the tree should definitely be moved to one with a drainage hole, asap.

it has two drainage holes and was wired properly from what it seems

I suppose it is little more than a boring 'just take care of the tree' prescription, but these few simple things can give yiu virtually every horticultural tool you need to create a prize winning maple bonsai.

Thank you so much for the invaluable advice. I’m definitely going to get some nursery stock to practice your advice on later this spring

May I be so bold as to ask where you got it?

Art’s Nursery over in Langley! I was actually just going there for an alocasia and some vegetable seeds but noticed the JM and decided to get it as well

If you want to grow the tree bigger, then I would suggest you repot the tree into a nursery pot or pond basket. If that’s the route you go you can use the soil it came in.

This is definitely what I’ll be doing today. And thank you for the welcome and advice

Maybe tape measures are a bit different in BC or perhaps your 1" is a bit of wishful thinking?

Transfer into a larger pot for the next few years at least.
The best way I've found to get good taper in JM trunks is repeated chop and grow. It is likely you'll spend the next 5-10 years developing a good trunk and branches on this one so starting this year makes sense.

Yeah that’s what I plan to do today. Thank you

 

[rockm]

I'd also get rid of that branch at the bottom that's bent down into the soil. It's not a root (and if it is a root, it should be there) snip whatever it is off at the trunk.

 

[Drewski]

Ahh yes, Arts Nursery. I’ve spent a fair bit of time there myself, and have bought more than a couple trees there. I’ve bought a few of the trees ( one shimpaku and a couple Procumbens) they sell in bonsai pots, and each one of them was in organic soil that isn’t suitable for bonsai pots. First thing to do with them is repot at the appropriate time. Last time I was there they had several Procumbens that would make nice starter trees for someone looking to get into junipers. I shouldn’t, but I’m probably going to grab one myself before too long.

 

[spiderland]

Last time I was there they had several Procumbens that would make nice starter trees for someone looking to get into junipers. I shouldn’t, but I’m probably going to grab one myself before too long.

Yeah they have lots of nice options there for starter trees, I’m definitely heading back there soon to get some more to practice my styling and basic care