Repot Azalea During Clip-and-Grow Process

[LeftHandLuke]

I picked up this azalea at a discount in 2022, moved to training pot (first pic) in May of that year. I let it grow pretty much freely the first year and the trunk base / root flair / taper progressed nicely (second pic from July 2022). Last year I started the clip-and-grow process and I like where it's headed. Third pic is from last August. Third and fourth pics are from today. My question is: Should I repot now?

Water pools on top of soil and is sluggish to drain, although it does drain through bottom of pot. Soil has become somewhat compacted and I don't see a ton of feeder roots near the top after digging down a half-inch or so. I'm not sure what's underneath and hesitant to slip it out for a quick look. (Side note: This is the deciduous type of azalea.)

It's been in this pot for two years, one of which was free-growing. On one hand, I want to keep the process moving forward, so repotting unnecessarily will slow the progress unnecessarily. On the other hand, if I forego repotting am I opening up the risk of root-rot or other problems?

 

[LeftHandLuke]

PS - I didn't realize until today that the "John Geanangle method" (@johng ) is something that's widely recognized. That's exactly what I'm attempting to do with this tree. In fact, mine coincidentally looks a lot like the sample JG illustrates in his YT video, Developing Azalea Bonsai through drastic pruning. JG doesn't talk about repotting in the video so that's really my question. Wondering how many seasons you can go without repotting.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

I picked up this azalea at a discount in 2022, moved to training pot (first pic) in May of that year. I let it grow pretty much freely the first year and the trunk base / root flair / taper progressed nicely (second pic from July 2022). Last year I started the clip-and-grow process and I like where it's headed. Third pic is from last August. Third and fourth pics are from today. My question is: Should I repot now?

Got fooled by the clip and grow remarks! Very familiar with this method.

We see an awful lot of folks that go right ahead and repot a weaken tree after radical pruning.… and many have disastrous results.

Roots drive the foliage and foliage production. So one would not want to repot just because drainage is slow. Actually healthy azaleas in pots tend to have slow drainage in the third year… it usually happens due to the skyfall accumulating in the moss ( which all azaleas should be completely covered with imho), coupled with root growth. In this case it looks like the top layer of the media is a bit gunked over from wintering over successive years.

So two things to do in this situation. First soji (remove the top 1/2” with radially sweeps with chop stick starting from the trunk Outwards and replace with new media and completely cover with moss.). Second, if this doesn’t satisfy…..carefully drill the rootball with a 1/8 - 3/16 drill diagonally inward towards the core about 10 -12 times for this set up.

Repeat this next year as needed, but do not repot until the following year when the foliage is well established.

If it were a tree in our collection, wouldn’t cut back until there was a plethora of branches at least 6 leaves long this year at the least. Then cut to two for the strongest ones and continue only until August… at least this year… considering the tree’s location.

The bud response is going to vary depending on the cultivar of azalea.

This cultivar (on the right) is a bit recalcitrant and is going into its third year… not going to be a bushy kind of design, cut back twice last year and finally finding its way. Note multiple lower young branchlets by scars to help improve the flow and heal the scar areas. Will repot next year.



cheers
DSD sends

 

[LeftHandLuke]

So two things to do in this situation. First soji (remove the top 1/2” with radially sweeps with chop stick starting from the trunk Outwards and replace with new media and completely cover with moss.). Second, if this doesn’t satisfy…..carefully drill the rootball with a 1/8 - 3/16 drill diagonally inward towards the core about 10 -12 times for this set up.

Repeat this next year as needed, but do not repot until the following year when the foliage is well established.

Wow... Thanks so much for this response. This is enormously helpful. Regarding that last sentence, do you mean that that's the "year" to repot, when the branching structure is well established, or are you specifically saying to wait until later spring or early summer that year, when the foliage has established for the growing season?

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Basically the intent was to repot next year (2025)… if the foliage becomes well established. If not well established repeat soji-drill again for another year.

In case a second year is needed and the foliage becomes well established repot in late winter until the tree begins to push.

At repot a decision will need to be made… what media? We use a 90/10% Kaunuma/Pumice with 5% more Biochar mixed in. A complete root wash is required if another media is used. One shown not mix medias, that’s asking for problem.

There are a lot of ifs, ands and buts being skipped. One might check out other azalea threads to help.

Finally, can’t tell the scale of the tree, but consider using a Tokoname training pot, perhaps 7-9” size… depending on the actual size. btw azaleas should not go in shallow display pots. There root mass and growing habit requires a deeper pot to remain healthy.

cheers
DSD sends

 

[LeftHandLuke]

Thank you, my friend. @Deep Sea Diver Much appreciated!